5 Days in Vitória, Espírito Santo: Beaches, Moqueca, and Bay Views
Vitória, capital of Espírito Santo, is one of Brazil’s three island capitals, a city cradled by a calm bay and stitched together by bridges and mangroves. Founded in 1551, it blends centuries-old landmarks with a lively seaside lifestyle, where mornings begin with ocean breezes and evenings glow orange over the harbor at Praça do Papa.
Travelers come for calm beaches—Curva da Jurema and the pocket coves of Ilha do Boi—plus day trips to Vila Velha’s hilltop Convento da Penha. Food is a headline act: moqueca capixaba, slow-simmered in a black clay pot seasoned by artisans from Goiabeiras, is lighter than its Bahian cousin and absolutely essential tasting.
Expect a laid-back rhythm, friendly neighborhoods like Praia do Canto, and easy ride-hailing across the metro. December to March is hot and beachy; May to September is drier and great for sightseeing. Bring sun protection, book dinners on weekends, and come hungry—Espírito Santo’s seafood will spoil you in the best way.
Vitória
Vitória feels like a string of islands and peninsulas designed for leisurely days. Start where locals gather: the waterfront promenade near Praça do Papa, the beach arc of Curva da Jurema, and the tiny turquoise bays of Ilha do Boi and Ilha do Frade. Cultural stops include Palácio Anchieta and the Catedral Metropolitana, while nature lovers find green space at Pedra da Cebola Park.
Food-wise, this is moqueca country. Look for capixaba staples like moqueca de robalo or badejo, casquinha de siri, and (around Easter) torta capixaba. For evenings, the Triângulo das Bermudas cluster in Praia do Canto hums with casual bars and live music—perfect for a caipirinha and people-watching.
Where to stay (mid-range comfort): Base yourself in Praia do Canto or Enseada do Suá for walkable dining and bay views; Jardim Camburi is a good-value beach neighborhood near the airport.
- Browse vacation rentals in Vitória on VRBO (great for families or groups near the beach).
- Compare hotels in Vitória on Hotels.com (from reliable business hotels to seaside stays).
Getting in: Fly into VIX (Eurico de Aguiar Salles Airport). Typical flight times: ~1h from Rio (GIG/SDU) and ~1h15 from São Paulo (CGH/GRU). One-way fares often range ~US$50–150. Check options on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. Ride-hailing to Praia do Canto takes ~20–25 minutes (roughly R$35–60 off-peak).
Day 1: Harbor sunsets and capixaba flavors
Afternoon: Arrive, drop bags, and ease into the trip with a stroll along the waterfront at Praça do Papa. Watch sailboats drift across Baía de Vitória and grab fresh coconut water from a kiosk. If you’re ready for sand between your toes, Curva da Jurema is a gentle beach 10 minutes away with calm swimming and shaded chairs.
Evening: Start your culinary tour with moqueca capixaba. Book a table at Soeta (inventive tasting menus with strong seafood roots) for a special first night, or try Papaguth – Culinária do Mar for classic moqueca served in a black clay panela. After dinner, wander the Triângulo das Bermudas in Praia do Canto for a relaxed drink; opt for a maracujá caipirinha and live bossa or samba when on offer.
Day 2: Old-town stories and sea turtles
Morning: Explore Vitória’s historic core. Step into the Catedral Metropolitana and admire the neo-Gothic lines, then see Palácio Anchieta’s facade—one of Brazil’s oldest seats of government. Read up on Maria Ortiz, the resistance heroine commemorated on the city steps. Pause for a light Brazilian breakfast of pão de queijo and espresso at a neighborhood café in the Centro or Praia do Canto.
Afternoon: Head to Enseada do Suá for the Projeto Tamar Vitória base, where educational exhibits spotlight Brazil’s sea turtles and conservation along the capixaba coast. Afterwards, settle into the small coves of Ilha do Boi (Praia da Direita or Praia da Esquerda) for a tranquil swim; the clear, protected water and rocky scenery are ideal for a low-key beach read.
Evening: Dine at Aleixo in Praia do Canto for refined seafood and a good wine list, or keep it casual with a plate of bolinho de bacalhau and a cold draft beer at a neighborhood boteco. Walk the bayfront afterwards—night breezes here are part of Vitória’s daily ritual.
Day 3: Vila Velha day trip—Convento da Penha, Praia da Costa & chocolate
Morning: Cross the Terceira Ponte (15–20 minutes by car) to Vila Velha and climb to Convento da Penha (16th century). The sanctuary sits dramatically on a granite outcrop with sweeping views over Vitória’s islands and bridges—arrive early for softer light and fewer crowds.
Afternoon: Relax on broad, golden Praia da Costa. Rent chairs and an umbrella, sip a matte-lemon iced tea from beach vendors, and sample pastéis or grilled queijo coalho. For lunch, classic seafood at Restaurante Atlântica pairs well with ocean views—share moqueca de badejo with pirão and rice.
Evening: Swing by the Garoto chocolate visitor center/store to stock up on Bombom Serenata de Amor and regional favorites; tours can be available—check same-day availability at the desk. Back in Vitória, keep dinner light with tapas-style petiscos and a Brazil-forward cocktail in Praia do Canto.
Day 4: Parks, bay cruising, and island coves
Morning: Start at Pedra da Cebola Park, a local green lung with walking paths and a quirky balancing-rock outcrop. Birdsong, shade, and a gentle pace set the tone. Coffee up with a brigadeiro or two before heading back waterside.
Afternoon: Make it a water day. On calm days you can rent a stand-up paddleboard or kayak at Curva da Jurema to skim along the bay, or join a schooner cruise from the harbor area that glides past fortifications and under the city’s bridges (typically ~1.5–2 hours). Prefer shore time? Return to Ilha do Boi’s pocket beaches for unrushed swimming.
Evening: For a hearty, shareable dinner, Coco Bambu at Shopping Vitória serves big seafood platters—good value for groups. Alternatively, go back to basics at a moqueca house: order fish + shrimp, and ask for farofa and a side of pirão—the broth-thickened comfort food locals crave.
Day 5: Last swim, local markets, and departure
Morning: One more dip. If the tide is right, the coves on Ilha do Frade are wonderfully peaceful; otherwise, an easy beach walk along Praia de Camburi’s long promenade is a serene sendoff. Stop by a weekend craft market near Praça dos Namorados (if your dates align) for ceramics and local art.
Afternoon: Early lunch and gelato in Praia do Canto, pick up ceramics inspired by the black clay pans of Goiabeiras, then transfer to VIX for your afternoon flight. If you have extra hours, linger at Praça do Papa for one last bay view.
Evening: Fly onward or extend your Brazil route. If you’re connecting via Rio, consider these curated experiences below.
Optional add-ons via Viator (Rio de Janeiro)
Perfect if you’re routing through Rio before/after Vitória—bookable, guided, and time-efficient.
-
Full Day in Rio: Christ by Train, Sugarloaf, Selarón & Barbecue — a comprehensive city day including Corcovado’s cog train, Sugarloaf cable car, and iconic sights with lunch included.
Full Day in Rio: Christ by Train, Sugarloaf, Selarón & Barbecue on Viator -
Rio de Janeiro Sunset Sailing Tour with Drinks — toast golden hour on Guanabara Bay as the city lights flicker on; a relaxed complement to Vitória’s bay vibe.
Rio de Janeiro Sunset Sailing Tour with Drinks on Viator
Transport tools for flights and trains: Compare fares on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. (Brazil has limited passenger trains; fly for intercity hops.)
Budget notes (aiming for mid-range ~50/100): Expect R$80–120 per person for a seafood lunch at casual spots, R$150–250+ at chef-driven restaurants; beach chairs typically R$10–20 each; rides across the metro often R$15–40 depending on distance and time.
In five days, Vitória rewards an unhurried traveler: light-filled mornings over the bay, swims in pocket coves, and plates of fragrant moqueca. With a taste of Vila Velha’s hilltop sanctuary and a nod to local conservation at Projeto Tamar, you’ll leave relaxed—and already plotting a return for one more sunset at Praça do Papa.