5 Days in Sri Lanka’s Northern Province: Jaffna and Mannar Island Odyssey
Sri Lanka’s Northern Province is where the Palk Strait breathes salt into palmyrah groves and centuries of Tamil tradition ring through temple bells. Once off-limits, it’s now a welcoming frontier of saffron-colored kovils, Dutch-era forts, and island-speckled lagoons.
Over five days you’ll trace a graceful arc from Jaffna—home to the famed Nallur Kandaswamy Temple, Keerimalai Springs, and sunset-lit Jaffna Fort—to Mannar’s desert-like causeways, the Giant Baobab, and the edge-of-the-map vistas toward Adam’s Bridge. Along the way, you’ll taste Jaffna crab curry, odiyal kool (a hearty seafood broth), and sweets made from palmyrah.
Practical notes: Dress modestly at temples (shoulders/knees covered; remove shoes). The northeast monsoon (Oct–Jan) brings rains; Jan–Apr and Jun–Sep are typically best. Cash is king at small eateries, and alcohol is scarce outside hotels. For long distances, trains or a private driver are comfortable options.
Jaffna
Jaffna is the cultural heart of Sri Lanka’s north—vibrant kovil festivals, a storied library, and seafood-rich cuisine. The city balances scholarship and spirituality with sea-breeze evenings at the star-shaped Dutch Fort and island day trips that feel timeless.
- Top sights: Nallur Kandaswamy Temple, Jaffna Fort, Jaffna Public Library, Keerimalai Springs, Casuarina Beach, Dambakola Patuna.
- Don’t miss: a bowl of Jaffna crab curry, a cup of palmyrah toddy (where permitted), and Rio Ice Cream after sunset.
- Stay via: VRBO Jaffna or Hotels.com Jaffna. Local favorites include boutique stays like The Thinnai, Fox Jaffna, and city-center business hotels like Jetwing Jaffna.
Getting to Jaffna: Fly into Colombo (CMB) then ride the scenic Uttara Devi or Yal Devi train to Jaffna (6.5–7.5 hours, about USD 4–12, 2nd/1st class). Search flights on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com, and check train timetables on Trip.com Trains. Private car from Colombo takes ~7–8 hours.
Helpful add-on (bookable):
Sri Lanka Car and Driver Hire - Private Driver and Chauffeur

Use a vetted driver for airport pickup, peninsula day trips (Keerimalai, Casuarina), or an early start to the islands. It’s the easiest way to link scattered sights in one day.
Day 1 — Arrive Jaffna, temples and a sunset fort
Afternoon: Arrive and check in. Shake off the journey with a gentle wander at the Jaffna Public Library—a symbol of resilience—and the calm Old Park nearby. Hydrate with fresh king coconut from a street seller.
Evening: Visit the luminous Nallur Kandaswamy Temple (modest dress; men often remove shirts in the inner sanctum). For dinner, try Mango’s near Nallur for superb vegetarian dosas, ghee roast, and sambars. Or sample seafood and Jaffna crab curry at Green Grass Restaurant (classic, family-friendly). Close with a pistachio or nougat scoop at Rio Ice Cream.
Night: Golden-hour stroll atop the ramparts of Jaffna Fort—watch the sky go pink over the lagoon. For a nightcap or coffee with a view, Jetwing Jaffna’s rooftop (Peninsula 9) is relaxed and central.
Day 2 — Islands, springs, and beaches of the Jaffna Peninsula
Morning: Early drive to the northwest tip for Keerimalai Springs and Naguleswaram Temple. Locals swear by the mineral pools; bring a modest bathing outfit if you’d like a dip. Continue to Casuarina Beach (Karainagar)—a shallow, child-friendly lagoon with pale sand.
Lunch: Casual seafood stalls near Karainagar serve fried cuttlefish, prawn curry, and pol sambol. If you prefer a sit-down option back in town, Rolex Restaurant is a reliable bet for flaky parotta with mutton curry or spicy kottu.
Afternoon: Drive to Dambakola Patuna, the ancient landing site of Sangamitta Theri who brought a sacred Bo sapling to Sri Lanka. Return via the coastal road; stop for palmyrah jaggery sweets at a roadside shop.
Evening: Sample a proper northern feast: try odiyal kool (a seafood-and-millet broth), crab curry, and brinjal moju at boutique hotel restaurants like The Thinnai’s dining room (known for well-spiced, traditional recipes). Coffee/espresso is easiest at hotel cafés; pair it with a mango lassi if you’re heat-worn.
Mannar
Mannar feels like the island at the end of the map—wind turbines turning over turquoise flats, bird sanctuaries flushed pink with flamingos in season, and a majestic Baobab planted by Arab traders centuries ago. The mood is spacious and elemental.
- Top sights: Mannar Fort, Giant Baobab, Vankalai Bird Sanctuary, Thiruketheeswaram Temple, Talaimannar Pier with views toward Adam’s Bridge.
- Stay via: VRBO Mannar or Hotels.com Mannar. Look for eco lodges like Palmyrah House (excellent restaurant) or family-run guesthouses near Pesalai.
- Getting there: Jaffna to Mannar is ~3.5–4 hours (about 180 km) via the A32 causeway—water on both sides and birdlife galore. Expect USD 70–100 by private car; buses take 4.5–5.5 hours (~USD 2–4).
Helpful add-on (bookable):
Sri Lanka Personal Tour Driver in private vehicle

Hire a private driver for the Jaffna→Mannar transfer and for remote sites like Vankalai and Talaimannar where public transport is sparse and dawn/dusk timing matters for wildlife.
Day 3 — Morning transfer to Mannar, forts and the famous baobab
Morning (Travel): Depart Jaffna after breakfast for Mannar via the scenic A32. Plan 3.5–4 hours with a tea stop; the Sangupiddy Bridge offers great lagoon views. Private driver is most efficient; buses are frequent but slower.
Afternoon: Check in, then tour the star-shaped Mannar Fort (Dutch-built, later British). Its ramparts frame sweeping sea views and wind turbines in the distance. Continue to the otherworldly Giant Baobab—a centuries-old import from Africa with a trunk so wide it takes many arms to encircle.
Evening: Sunset along the Mannar causeway or at Talaimannar Beach, watching fishing boats return. Dinner at Palmyrah House: order crab curry, tempered okra, and red rice; finish with palmyrah jaggery pudding. If you prefer casual, try simple seafood kades along Talaimannar Road—grilled prawns and coconut sambol are staples.
Day 4 — Birds at dawn, a sacred temple, and the edge of Adam’s Bridge
Morning: At first light, head to Vankalai Bird Sanctuary (best Nov–Apr). Expect egrets, herons, bee-eaters, and—if you’re lucky—flamingos. Bring binoculars, sunhat, and insect repellent. Continue to the ancient Thiruketheeswaram Kovil, one of the five historic abodes of Shiva in Sri Lanka; dress modestly.
Lunch: Return to town for a rice-and-curry spread—look for fried lagoon fish, jackfruit curry, and beetroot poriyal. Many guesthouses will cook on request if you order ahead; otherwise Palmyrah House offers consistent quality.
Afternoon: Drive west to Talaimannar Pier for views over the chain of sandbanks called Adam’s Bridge (Rama’s Bridge). Local boatmen sometimes offer short rides along the coast in calm weather—negotiate price and safety gear. Sand is blindingly bright; pack water.
Evening: Try a street-side roti with seeni sambol and fresh lime juice. Back at your lodge, stargazing is lovely on clear nights—Mannar’s skies are big and uncluttered.
Day 5 — Slow coastal morning, palmyrah treats, and departure
Morning: Easy start with a beach walk at Keeri or along the causeway to spot terns and waders. Swing by the local market for palmyrah products—panangkatti (jaggery), pittu flour, and sweet wafers make thoughtful, regional gifts.
Afternoon (Departure): If you’re flying out today, allow time to reach your onward hub. Mannar to Colombo (CMB) is 6.5–7.5 hours by car; consider breaking the journey with a train from Anuradhapura or book a through-transfer with a driver. Search flight options on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com, and check Sri Lanka rail options on Trip.com Trains.
Evening: Final tastes before you go: a last cup of Ceylon tea and a plate of sweet mango if in season. Safe travels.
Optional add-ons and insider tips
- Delft (Neduntheevu) Island Day Trip from Jaffna: When the local ferry runs (usually morning departures from Kurikadduwan), hire a tuk-tuk on arrival to see the coral walls, Dutch stables, baobab, and wild ponies. Pack water and sun protection; crossings and schedules are weather-dependent—ask the day before.
- Point Pedro and Valvettithurai coast: A photogenic loop east of Jaffna—lighthouse views and quiet beaches, best early or late for soft light.
- Temple etiquette: Women/men should cover shoulders and knees; remove footwear before entering sanctums. Photography rules vary—look for signs or ask.
- Food to seek out: Jaffna crab curry, odiyal kool, mutton poriyal, spicy beetroot, and palmyrah treacle desserts. Many small eateries are cash-only.
In five days you’ll feel the north’s soul: temple chants at dawn, salt wind on old ramparts, and vast horizons where land thins into sea. Jaffna and Mannar reward the curious with culture, cuisine, and a sense of discovery that lingers long after you’ve headed south.

