5 Days in Bangladesh’s Dhaka Division: Old Dhaka, Jamdani Villages, and Riverside Heritage
Dhaka Division is the beating heart of Bangladesh—an exhilarating blend of Mughal-era history, British Raj-era architecture, modern skylines, and the ceaseless choreography of rickshaws. The capital, Dhaka, took shape as a Mughal trading hub in the 17th century, and you still feel that legacy in Old Dhaka’s labyrinth of lanes, mosques with starry tiles, and the river port that fuels the city’s daily rhythm.
Just southeast lies Sonargaon, the historic capital of Bengal and cradle of jamdani, the UNESCO-listed muslin weaving tradition. Its abandoned merchant street, Panam City, whispers of a once-prosperous riverine economy, while nearby villages keep delicate textile craftsmanship alive on handlooms.
Expect spirited hospitality, serious traffic, and unforgettable food—from fragrant kacchi biryani to bhorta (mashed seasonal sides) and fresh river fish. Dress modestly for religious sites, plan for Friday–Saturday weekends, and note that some museums close on Thursdays. Rideshare apps are common; cash and mobile money are widely used. Coffee culture is thriving, too—great news for jet-lag.
Dhaka
Dhaka is a study in contrasts: Louis Kahn’s monumental National Parliament Building on one end; the Pink Palace (Ahsan Manzil) and shipyards on the Buriganga on the other. Old Dhaka (Puran Dhaka) rewards walkers and photographers with the Star Mosque, Armenian Church, and aromatic spice lanes that feel centuries old.
Top sights include Lalbagh Fort, the Liberation War Museum, Dhakeshwari Temple, Curzon Hall, Sadarghat River Port, and Kawran Bazar—an early-morning market that is a dream for street photographers. Don’t miss a short boat ride on the Buriganga for candid scenes of river life.
- Where to stay (Dhaka): Browse city-center hotels and serviced apartments on VRBO Dhaka and Hotels.com Dhaka. Aim for Gulshan, Banani, or Baridhara for easier logistics and dining.
- Getting in: Fly into DAC (Hazrat Shahjalal International). Compare fares on Kiwi.com or Trip.com Flights. Within Bangladesh, trains are an option for longer hops—see Trip.com Trains.
- Essentials: Ride-hailing (Uber, Pathao) is efficient; rickshaws are ideal for short distances (expect 30–100 BDT). Carry small bills; Fridays can affect opening hours.
Sonargaon (Narayanganj District)
Once the medieval capital of Bengal, Sonargaon is where you step into the world of Panam City—an atmospheric street lined with 19th–20th-century mansions built by Hindu merchants. It’s also a gateway to Shitalakshya River villages and jamdani weaving workshops where multigenerational artisans produce gauzy textiles by hand.
Pair Panam City with the Folk Arts & Crafts Museum at Boro Sardar Bari, a gentle river cruise, and a tea stop in a jamdani village. Early departures help you beat Dhaka traffic; plan 1–1.5 hours by car each way (25–35 km).
- Overnight option: Most travelers day-trip from Dhaka, but you can search stays in nearby Narayanganj via VRBO Narayanganj or Hotels.com Narayanganj.
- Food breaks: Local stalls around the museum serve fish curries, dal, rice, and seasonal bhorta. Tea houses near jamdani workshops are perfect for a restorative cup and fresh fried snacks.
Day 1: Arrive in Dhaka, Settle In, and Taste the City
Morning: In transit to DAC. On arrival, allow 30–60 minutes for immigration and baggage. Ride-hailing to Gulshan/Banani typically takes 30–70 minutes depending on traffic.
Afternoon: Get connected quickly with an eSIM so you can hail rides and navigate offline. Book the Bangladesh Data eSIM and activate in minutes.

Shake off jet lag with specialty coffee and pastries at North End Coffee Roasters (Gulshan 2) or Holey Artisan Bakery (Gulshan Avenue). Check in and rest.
Evening: Ease into Dhaka with a lakeside stroll at Hatirjheel as the city lights come on. For dinner, try Sultan’s Dine (legendary kacchi biryani with tender mutton and fragrant basmati) or Izumi in Gulshan (top-tier sashimi and robata; reservations recommended). Nightcap at a hotel lounge if you want something quiet.
Day 2: Old Dhaka—Forts, Mosques, River Life (Full-Day Tour)
Spend the day with an expert who knows how to thread the alleys, beat traffic, and unlock hidden courtyards. Book the Authentic Old Dhaka Day Tour with Shipyard Visit for a curated deep dive into heritage, food, and Buriganga river scenes.

Highlights typically include Lalbagh Fort’s red ramparts, Dhakeshwari Temple, the tile-studded Star Mosque, Ahsan Manzil (the pink palace of the Nawabs), Shankhari Bazar’s craft lanes, and a boat ride across Sadarghat’s bustling waterways. Many tours also cross to the ship-repair yards for riveting photo opportunities.
Food notes: Expect street-side tastings and classic stops such as Hazir Biriani (for a no-frills, perfect plate) and Beauty Lassi & Faluda (cool, rose-scented relief). If timing allows, pop into Nirob Hotel for a Bangla set meal—rice, curries, and a rainbow of bhorta.
Day 3: Modern Dhaka, Markets, and Architecture
Morning: Start at Kawran Bazar before 8 a.m. to see wholesale vegetables and fish arrive—photographers love the textures, steam, and movement. Grab a flat white and a cinnamon roll at North End’s Kawran Bazar outpost, then circle Curzon Hall’s red-brick architecture.
Afternoon: Tour the Liberation War Museum (sobering, superbly curated; plan 1.5–2 hours) and stroll Ramna Park. If you’re keen on camera work with a guide, consider the Dhaka Photography Tour: Private Street Photography for access to markets, shipyards, and river scenes timed for best light.

Evening: Admire the exterior of the National Parliament Building at golden hour—Louis Kahn’s geometric masterpiece is striking even from outside the complex. Dinner ideas: Star Kabab & Restaurant (Dhanmondi) for grilled meats and paratha; Tarka (Banani) for North Indian classics; or Kosturi for a very Bangladeshi thali—rice, fish curry, shorshe (mustard) sauces, and seasonal greens.
Day 4: Sonargaon—Panam City, Jamdani Villages, and a River Cruise (Full-Day Tour)
Depart Dhaka around 7–7:30 a.m.; it’s typically 1–1.5 hours by car to Sonargaon depending on traffic. Book the Sonargaon Panam and Jamdani Village Cultural Tour with Cruise for a smooth, well-paced day.

You’ll walk the photogenic facades of Panam City, visit the Folk Arts & Crafts Museum at Boro Sardar Bari, sip tea in jamdani weaving villages, and take a gentle cruise on the Shitalakshya—great for landscape photos and seeing riverine life. Guides often arrange a homestyle lunch: rice, lentils, river fish, and vegetable bhorta.
Return to Dhaka by early evening. For dinner near Gulshan, try Kacchi Bhai (fast, flavorful kacchi) or a lighter option at Holey Artisan Bakery—salads, wood-fired flatbreads, and excellent desserts.
Day 5: Crafts, Last Bites, and Departure
Morning: Shop for souvenirs: jamdani scarves and saris, handmade nakshi kantha embroidery, jute goods, and ceramics. Department-style craft stores and boutique co-ops in Gulshan and Dhanmondi are reliable for quality.
Afternoon: Lunch on one last Bangla spread—consider Bharta specialties (eggplant, dried fish, green chili, pumpkin) alongside fish curry and rice. Grab coffees to go and transfer to DAC; aim to leave your hotel 3–4 hours before an international flight to buffer traffic and security queues.
Evening: Fly onward—check fares and schedules on Kiwi.com or Trip.com Flights. You’ve just explored the essence of Bangladesh in five flavorful days.
Where to Eat and Drink: A Handy Shortlist
- Breakfast/Coffee: North End Coffee Roasters (citywide), Holey Artisan Bakery (Gulshan) for sourdough and patisserie, and Tabaq Coffee (Banani) for espresso and light bites.
- Lunch Classics: Hazir Biriani (Old Dhaka), Nirob Hotel (Old Dhaka) for homestyle sets, Star Kabab & Restaurant (Dhanmondi) for kababs and curries.
- Dinner: Sultan’s Dine (kacchi biryani), Izumi (Japanese, Gulshan), Tarka (North Indian, Banani), Kosturi (Bangla thali).
- Sweet/Drinks: Beauty Lassi & Faluda (Old Dhaka) for dairy treats; tea stalls around Sonargaon villages for milk tea and seasonal fritters.
Logistics at a Glance
- Internal travel times: Gulshan ↔ Old Dhaka: 45–90 minutes by car depending on rush hours; Dhaka ↔ Sonargaon: 1–1.5 hours each way.
- Estimated costs: Ride-hailing across town: 300–700 BDT; private car day hire: from ~6,000–10,000 BDT; full-day guided tours: commonly ~US$40–120 per person depending on inclusions.
- Connectivity: Consider the Bangladesh Data eSIM for easy data and maps from day one.
- Accommodation search: VRBO Dhaka, Hotels.com Dhaka.
Optional/Alternative Tours
- Authentic Old Dhaka Day Tour with Shipyard Visit (heritage + food + boat).
- Sonargaon Panam & Jamdani Village Tour with Cruise (history + craft + river).
- Dhaka Photography Tour: Private Street Photography (markets + shipyards at the right light).
In five days you’ve traced Dhaka’s story from Mughal fortifications to modernist icons, and from river ports to jamdani looms. This itinerary balances big-ticket sights with street-level flavor and time to savor Bangladesh’s soulful cuisine. You’ll leave with full memory cards—and an even fuller heart.

