4 Days in Varkala, Kerala: A Family-Friendly Beach, Cliff, and Backwater Itinerary
Varkala is the rare Kerala beach where rust-red laterite cliffs drop straight to the Arabian Sea, framing sunsets you’ll remember forever. Known to locals for the sacred Papanasam Beach and the 2,000-year-old Janardanaswamy Temple, it’s equally beloved by families for safe swimming areas, relaxed cliff cafes, and calm backwaters nearby.
Sree Narayana Guru’s Sivagiri Mutt draws pilgrims year-round, while cliffside lanes bustle with tailors, spice stalls, coir handicrafts, and beachwear boutiques—great for affordable shopping. Add in Ayurvedic spas, gentle boat rides on Kappil Lake, and easy day trips from Thiruvananthapuram, and you’ve got a well-rounded Kerala escape.
Best weather runs November–March; June–September brings monsoon swells and occasional rip currents (always heed lifeguards and flag systems). Kerala’s alcohol rules mean beer/wine are served at licensed venues only; many cafes are family-focused and mellow. Pack modest wear for temples and reef-safe sunscreen for the sea.
Varkala
Perched above Papanasam and Black Beach, the famous Varkala Cliff is your orientation line: a car-free promenade with viewpoints, juice bars, and family-friendly restaurants. South of the helipad, the historic Janardanaswamy Temple anchors the town; to the north, Kappil’s tranquil lake meets the sea, ideal for pedal boats and short kayak rides.
Top sights include the temple, Sivagiri Mutt, the 19th‑century Varkala Tunnel, the Anchuthengu (Anjengo) Fort and lighthouse, and the sunset points along the cliff. For unique activities, try a sunrise yoga session on the cliff, an Ayurvedic massage (Abhyangam) for parents while the kids browse the cliff market, or an easy backwater putter with birdsong as soundtrack.
- Family eats to try: Coffee Temple (hearty breakfasts, smoothie bowls), Darjeeling Café (sea-view pastas, momos), ABBA Restaurant & Everest German Bakery (fresh seafood, bakes), Clafouti Restaurant (Kerala thalis, tandoor), and InDa Café (salads, wraps, kids’ plates). All are casual, budget-friendly, and steps from the beach.
- Fun facts: The “Varkala Formation” is a geologic window into millions of years of Kerala’s coast; Papanasam literally means “wash away sins.” You may catch friendly beach cricket at sunset—bring a smile and you might get invited to bowl an over.
Where to stay (family and budget friendly): Browse apartments and homestays near the helipad or North Cliff for easy beach access and quieter nights:
- See VRBO options in Varkala – great for multi-room spaces, kitchenettes, and longer stays.
- See Hotels.com stays in Varkala – filter for pools, family rooms, and cliff/beach access.
Getting to Varkala (budget-first): Fly into Thiruvananthapuram/TRV (closest) or Kochi/COK, then connect overland.
- Flights: Compare fares on Trip.com (flights) or Kiwi.com. From Delhi/Mumbai/Bangalore, nonstop/1-stop runs ~1.5–3.5 hours.
- Train (Asia): From TRV to Varkala Sivagiri (VAK) takes ~40–60 minutes and costs ~₹30–100 in Second Sitting—search schedules on Trip.com (trains).
- Taxi: TRV airport to Varkala is ~45–70 km, 1.5–2 hours, ~₹1,800–2,500 for an AC sedan (ask for prepaid).
Day 1 — Arrival, Cliff Stroll, and Sunset
Morning: Travel toward Varkala. If you land at TRV before noon, grab a simple lunch at the airport or Thampanoor area, then catch a budget train to Varkala Sivagiri. Autorickshaw from the station to the cliff is ~₹120–180.
Afternoon: Check in and take a relaxed orientation walk along Varkala Cliff. Pop into Coffee Temple for fresh juices, dosa, or smoothie bowls; prices are family-friendly (~₹150–350 per dish). Browse nearby stalls for cotton kurtas, handloom scarves, and coir crafts—bargain politely.
Evening: Head down to Papanasam Beach for your first sunset; stick to lifeguard-patrolled zones. Dinner at ABBA Restaurant & Everest German Bakery: try grilled fish, veg biryani, or wood-fired bakes—good portions for sharing. Post-dinner, many cliff cafes screen cricket or football; ask at Darjeeling Café if they’re showing the latest IPL or Premier League match.
Day 2 — Temples, Backwaters, Boats, and Ayurveda
Morning: Sunrise on the cliff, then breakfast at InDa Café (pancakes, omelets, fresh fruit). Visit the ancient Janardanaswamy Temple—cover shoulders/knees; footwear off at the gate. Continue to the 1860s Varkala Tunnel to peek into colonial-era engineering.
Afternoon: Take a short auto (20–30 minutes) to Kappil Beach & Lake. Rent a pedal boat or a sit-on-top kayak for an hour on the backwaters (approx. ₹300–600 for pedal boats; kayaks ~₹800–1,200 for 1–2 hours; life jackets provided). Families with toddlers can stick to the pedal boats; teens love kayaking across the coconut-lined inlets. Eat a simple Kerala thali or tandoor rotis back on the cliff at Clafouti Restaurant—sea breezes, shade, and quick service.
Evening: Parents, unwind with a 60–90 minute Abhyangam (full-body Ayurvedic oil massage) at a reputable spa; typical rates ~₹1,500–2,500. Kids can enjoy gelato or fresh tender coconut on the promenade. If it’s match night, catch the IPL at Rock ’N’ Roll Café or a similar cliff hangout; non-alcoholic coolers and snacks keep it family-appropriate.
Day 3 — Optional Family Day Trip: Kanyakumari & Padmanabhapuram
This full-day excursion is perfect if you’d like a bigger outing while still returning to Varkala by night. Take an early train (or taxi) to Thiruvananthapuram (about 1–1.5 hours), meet your guide there, and continue south to India’s Land’s End. Expect ocean views where three seas meet, a gorgeous wooden palace, and a dazzling sunset on clear days.
Recommended tour (meets in Trivandrum/Kovalam): Day trip to Kanyakumari beach and Padmanabhapuram palace

Notes for families: carry hats, water, and snacks; the palace requires modest clothing and footwear removal in some sections. From Varkala, budget ~₹120–200 per person for the morning train to Trivandrum; a private car from Varkala is convenient but pricier (~₹5,500–7,500 return). If you’d rather stay local, swap this day for Anchuthengu Fort and lighthouse plus a calm Golden Island backwater boat—ask locally about current boat timings.
Day 4 — Sivagiri, Last Swims, Shopping, and Departure
Morning: Early visit to Sivagiri Mutt, the hilltop ashram founded by Sree Narayana Guru. It’s quiet, reflective, and a gentle cultural stop for kids. Brunch afterward at Darjeeling Café—try momos, noodles, or a simple Kerala-style fish curry.
Afternoon: Final swim at Black Beach or in the lifeguard zone at Papanasam (check flags; waves can be stronger around midday). Pick up cinnamon, cardamom, tea, and coir mats on the cliff. Checkout and transfer to Varkala station or TRV airport—trains to TRV are frequent; taxis require ~1.5–2 hours.
Evening: Departure. If you have a late flight and want to squeeze in one more activity, see if the Anchuthengu Lighthouse is open in the late afternoon for panoramic coast views (hours vary; ask locally). For future trips, keep an eye on match calendars at Thiruvananthapuram’s Greenfield International Stadium—families often make an evening of it when schedules align.
Approximate family-on-a-budget costs (per day, without day trip): Meals ₹1,500–2,800 for a family of four (mix of thalis and cafe dishes), local transport ₹200–600, activities ₹300–1,200 (boats/beach chairs), spa (optional) ₹1,500–2,500 per adult.
Booking quick links:
- Flights: Trip.com | Kiwi.com
- Trains (TRV ↔ Varkala and regional): Trip.com (trains)
- Stays: VRBO – Varkala | Hotels.com – Varkala
Four days in Varkala gives your family a balanced Kerala sampler: cliff walks, easy swims, temple lore, gentle backwaters, and platefuls of south Indian comfort food. Keep it slow, let the kids set the pace, and follow the sea breeze—it always knows the prettiest path along the cliff.

