Sardinia’s wild east coast has a reputation that walkers whisper about and climbers revere. Limestone cliffs plunge into a neon sea, caves echo with Bronze Age stories, and the Supramonte range hides old shepherd paths that today make some of Europe’s most thrilling hikes. The Golfo di Orosei is the showcase—raw, remote, and heart-stoppingly beautiful.

Base yourself in Cala Gonone, a compact seaside town perfectly placed for boat days to Cala Luna and Cala Mariolu, and for mountain days among canyons and nuraghi above Dorgali. South in the Baunei area, the path to Cala Goloritzé ends at a white-pebble cove facing the needlelike Aguglia—an icon for climbers and a pilgrimage for hikers.

Practical notes: from Venice, the fastest hop is into Olbia (about 1h30), then 1h30 by car to Cala Gonone. May 1 is a public holiday in Italy—book hikes with quotas (like Goloritzé) in advance, start early, and expect some crowds. Local cuisine is hearty and rustic: culurgiones (stuffed pasta), porcetto (roast suckling pig), pecorino, and seadas with honey—ideal fuel after big days on limestone.

Cala Gonone (Dorgali)

Cala Gonone sits between mountains and sea, with a small harbor where skippers launch toward the Gulf’s pocket beaches. It’s equal parts fishing village and adventure basecamp: trailheads minutes away, dive shops next to boat kiosks, and sunset terraces looking at cliffs dyed pink by the Mistral.

Top sights and experiences include boat trips to Cala Luna, Cala Mariolu, Cala Biriola, and the Bue Marino and del Fico caves; inland, legendary hikes like Gola di Gorropu and the Nuraghe Mannu viewpoint. For climbers, coastal crags and multi-pitch routes abound; for trekkers, sections of the famed Selvaggio Blu can be sampled as day hikes.

• Stay (B&Bs and rustic pads): Search budget-friendly rooms and apartments around the marina or uphill in Dorgali via VRBO in Cala Gonone or compare simple B&Bs on Hotels.com for Cala Gonone. Look for family-run B&Bs with parking and early breakfast (ideal before long hikes).
• Getting there: Fly Venice (VCE) to Olbia (OLB) in ~1h25 (typical €60–€150 in shoulder season). Compare options on Omio flights (Europe). Pick up a compact rental car at the airport; the drive to Cala Gonone is ~105 km/1h30 via SS131dcn + the Dorgali tunnel.
• Boat excursions: Shared boats or small zodiacs (gommoni) from the harbor cost ~€60–€80 pp for full-day hops with swim stops and cave add-ons (€10–€15 cash for caves). In May, seas can be cool and windy—pack a light jacket.
• Essential eats: - Il Pescatore (Cala Gonone): old-school seafood by the harbor; try fregola with clams and bottarga. - Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu (above Cala Gonone): fixed-menu farmhouse dinners with culurgiones, porcetto, and Cannonau; reserve ahead. - Pasticceria Fancello (Dorgali): morning espresso, seadas, and almond pastries before you hit the trail. - Ristorante La Poltrona (Dorgali): mountain views and Sardinian classics; good value set menus.
• Local gems: The Nuraghe Mannu archaeological site doubles as a balcony over the gulf; sunset here is superb. If seas are rough, swap to inland caves (Ispinigoli) or Gorropu canyon.

Day 1 (Tue, Apr 30): Arrival, Warm-Up Coastal Walk, Harbor Sunset

Morning: Fly Venice to Olbia (aim for late morning/early afternoon). Compare flights on Omio. Pick up your rental car; plan ~1h30 to Cala Gonone. En route, stop in Dorgali for a quick espresso and pastry at Pasticceria Fancello.

Afternoon: Check into your B&B. Shake out the legs with the clifftop path from Cala Fuili toward the first section of the Selvaggio Blu: limestone steps, juniper ladders, and turquoise coves below. Keep it to 1.5–2 hours out-and-back to save energy.

Evening: Aperitivo on the marina promenade—order an Ichnusa beer and olives. Dinner at Il Pescatore for grilled catch of the day or fregola ai frutti di mare. Early night; tomorrow is a big trek day.

Day 2 (Wed, May 1): Aguglia di Goloritzé and Cala Goloritzé Hike (Baunei)

Morning: Early start (05:45–06:00). Drive ~1h15 to the Altopiano del Golgo (Su Porteddu) trailhead above Baunei. Parking ~€6; the municipality caps access (~300/day) and requires a paid reservation (~€6)—book the day prior via official channels and carry the QR/receipt. The trail descends ~500 m over 3.5 km to the famed cove; allow 1.5–2 h down. Pack 2–3 L of water, sun protection, and sturdy shoes—no shade at midday.

Afternoon: Bask at Cala Goloritzé, photograph the Aguglia spire, and swim if seas are calm. Note: motorboats cannot land here; you must hike back up. Expert climber add-on: if you’ve arranged a certified alpine guide in Baunei, classic multi-pitches on the Aguglia include lines in the 6b–6c range; helmets and a light rack are standard. Ascend mid-afternoon (2–2.5 h up).

Evening: Post-hike refuel at Su Porteddu (Golgo) for a cold drink and a plate of carasau, pecorino, and salumi. For a sunset dinner, detour 20 minutes to the cliffside Ristorante Pedra Longa overlooking the sea stack—order spaghetti alle vongole or mixed grill. Drive back to Cala Gonone (~1h15). Budget tip: swap dinner for a picnic with pane carasau, olives, and Cannonau to stay lean on costs.

Day 3 (Thu, May 2): Boat Day on the Golfo di Orosei—Caves and Pocket Beaches

Morning: Grab coffee and a sweet at your B&B or a harbor bar. Join a small-group boat tour from Cala Gonone (8:30–16:30 typical). Expect stops at Cala Mariolu (milk-white pebbles, vivid blue water), Cala dei Gabbiani, and Cala Biriola, plus the option to visit Grotta del Bue Marino or Grotta del Fico (bring €10–€15 cash for cave tickets). Bring a mask for snorkeling; water temps in early May are fresh—pack a light neoprene top if you chill easily.

Afternoon: Lunch is picnic-style on the beach: grab panini, fruit, and water in the morning from a local minimarket near the marina. Many skippers also anchor at Cala Luna for a walk to the back of the cove and its iconic caves. Sea conditions can change quickly—if there’s strong Mistral, operators may alter routes or cancel for safety.

Evening: Back at the harbor, unwind with gelato before a rustic dinner at Agriturismo Nuraghe Mannu (fixed menu; reserve). If you prefer a lighter option or you’re driving south, head to Tortolì (50 min) for a casual bite at MeC Puddu’s—Sardinian-inspired burgers, panini, and local beers at friendly prices.

Day 4 (Fri, May 3): Quick Canyon or Summit View, Return to Olbia

Morning: Option A (ambitious): Drive ~45 min to Passo Silana (SS125) and hike down toward Gola di Gorropu, one of Europe’s deepest canyons. Time is tight on a departure day—aim for an early start and a 3.5–4 h round trip to the canyon floor and back (entry ~€5–€10; bring cash). Rocky boulder-hopping inside the gorge requires grippy shoes. Option B (short and scenic): sunrise stroll at Nuraghe Mannu above Cala Gonone for gulf-wide views and Bronze Age ruins, then coffee in town.

Afternoon: Drive back to Olbia (~1h30). Refuel the car near the airport, return it, and catch your afternoon flight (compare on Omio). If you have extra time, detour for a quick seafood lunch along Olbia’s waterfront before security.

Evening: Arrival in Venice. Legs pleasantly tired, memory card full of limestone and cobalt blues.

Logistics, Budget & Safety Notes

• Car rental: A compact car is ideal for Sardinia’s narrow, winding SS125. Expect ~€35–€60/day in late April/early May, plus ~€40–€60 total in fuel for this itinerary. Parking at trailheads is often paid—carry coins or small bills.
• Daily costs (est.): B&B €45–€75/night, meals €25–€45/day (less with picnics), boat tour €60–€80, Goloritzé access ~€6 + parking ~€6, Gorropu entry €5–€10. With careful dining and picnics, this fits a modest budget.
• Permits & closures: Goloritzé has a daily cap; reserve the day before (especially for May 1). Canyons and caves may close after heavy rains; always check locally.
• Trail safety: Limestone is sharp and can be slick with sand. Carry 2–3 L of water on hot days, sun hat, headlamp, light first-aid kit, and GPX tracks offline; cell coverage is spotty. Expect no services at remote coves.
• Transport options: If flights shift or you add cities, compare intra-Europe trains/buses/ferries on Omio Trains, Omio Buses, and Omio Ferries.

In four days you’ll sample Sardinia’s greatest hits for hikers: the descent to Cala Goloritzé under the Aguglia, a day roaming the Gulf’s secret coves by boat, and a canyon or summit view to close it out. With a simple B&B, a rental car, and early starts, this is an adventurous, budget-friendly slice of the Supramonte you won’t forget.