4 Days in Lisbon from Gatwick: Tiles, Tram 28, and Atlantic Flavors
Lisbon is a city of sunlight and stories. Romans, Moors, and maritime explorers have all left fingerprints on its seven hills, from Moorish castle walls to Manueline cloisters. Today, streetcars rattle past tiled façades, salty Atlantic breezes thread the alleys, and you’re never far from a viewpoint or a pastry.
The Portuguese capital rewards wanderers: ride Tram 28 through Alfama’s medieval lanes, climb to Castelo de São Jorge for a sweeping Tagus panorama, and trace the Age of Discovery in Belém. In between, Lisbon’s culinary scene ranges from classic seafood “cervejarias” to chef-led market stalls, with a nightly soundtrack of fado in candlelit taverns.
Practicalities are simple. Fly nonstop from Gatwick, tap in with a Viva Viagem transport card, and plan museum-heavy days to avoid Monday closures in Belém. Sample pastel de nata from both Pastéis de Belém and Manteigaria (for “research”), sip a tiny glass of ginjinha, and wear good shoes—the hills are real, the rewards even more so.
Lisbon
Lisbon blends old-world atmosphere with creative energy. Neighborhoods each have a mood: Alfama’s stairways and fado houses, Chiado’s Belle Époque cafés, Bairro Alto’s after-dark buzz, and riverside Belém’s grand monuments and museums. Across the Tagus, palace-studded Sintra makes an easy day trip—and feels like stepping into a storybook.
- Top sights: Castelo de São Jorge, Sé Cathedral, Tram 28 route, Miradouro de Santa Luzia and São Pedro de Alcântara, Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower, MAAT, LX Factory, Time Out Market, and Sintra’s Pena Palace, Moorish Castle, and Quinta da Regaleira.
- Eat & drink highlights: Cervejaria Ramiro (legendary shellfish), Solar dos Presuntos (classic seafood and Minho dishes), Time Out Market stalls (Henrique Sá Pessoa, Marlene Vieira, Asian Lab), A Cevicheria (buzzing Peruvian spot), O Frade (Alentejo flavors), Manteigaria and Pastéis de Belém (natas), A Ginjinha (cherry liqueur at the counter).
- Fun facts: Lisbon’s yellow trams date to the early 20th century; the city claims Europe’s longest bridge; and locals call themselves “alfacinhas”—little lettuces—after a medieval nickname linked to the region’s greens.
Where to stay: Base yourself in Baixa/Chiado for walkability, Alfama for views and history, or Avenida da Liberdade/Príncipe Real for quieter nights and stylish boutiques. Browse centrally located apartments and hotels here: VRBO Lisbon and Hotels.com Lisbon.
Getting there from Gatwick: Nonstop flights LGW–LIS take about 2h45–3h. Typical roundtrip fares range ~$90–$250 depending on season and baggage. Search and compare options on Omio Flights (Europe). From Lisbon Airport, take the Red Line metro to Saldanha/Alameda and connect as needed (about 25–35 minutes; ~€1.80–€2.10 plus €0.50 Viva Viagem card). Taxis and rideshares to Baixa run ~€12–€20, 20–30 minutes.
Getting around: Load a Viva Viagem card and consider the 24‑hour Carris/Metro pass (~€6.80) for unlimited trams, buses, funiculars, and metro (Tourist Tram 12/Yellow Bus excluded). Tram 28’s onboard fare is ~€3, but it’s covered by the day pass. Keep valuables close—pickpockets target crowded cars.
Day 1: Arrival, Baixa–Chiado, and a Rooftop Sunset
Afternoon: Land and check in. Orient yourself in Baixa’s grid, rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, and ride the Elevador de Santa Justa for a first skyline look. Treat yourself to a pastel de nata at Manteigaria in Chiado—silky custard, blistered top, still warm—or grab an espresso at Fabrica Coffee Roasters (roastery-fresh, nutty Brazilian blends).
Late afternoon: Stroll Largo do Carmo’s jacaranda-shaded square and the roofless Convento do Carmo exterior, then walk to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara for a golden-hour panorama across to the castle. If you want a seat with your sunset, slip up to Park Bar, a garden-like rooftop atop a parking garage with Tagus views and good caipirinhas.
Evening: Dinner options: - Taberna da Rua das Flores (chalkboard menu, seasonal Portuguese small plates; no bookings—put your name down and wander). - Sea Me – Peixaria Moderna (modern seafood: tempura prawns, tuna “nigiri” Portuguese‑style). - Solar dos Presuntos (old-school, bustling—clams “à Bulhão Pato,” rich seafood rice; reserve if possible). Nightcap: sip a quick ginjinha at A Ginjinha near Rossio or try Foxtrot (1920s villa bar with vintage vibe) in Príncipe Real.
Day 2: Alfama, Tram 28, Castles and Fado
Morning: Start with coffee and sourdough toasts at The Mill (Aussie‑Portuguese café), then catch Tram 28 toward Graça—ride a few stops for the experience, then walk to Miradouro da Graça for views and azulejo-lined churches. Explore Castelo de São Jorge (allow ~1.5–2 hours; ~€15) and the Sé Cathedral’s Romanesque nave.
Afternoon: Wander Alfama’s alleys past blue-tiled viewpoints at Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol. For lunch, choose: - Cervejaria Ramiro (no-frills temple to shellfish—garlic clams, scarlet prawns; finish with a prego steak sandwich), - Zé da Mouraria (beloved “tasca,” grilled fish or hearty pork stews; midday sells out). If you love crafts, detour to the National Tile Museum (Museu do Azulejo; ~€8; short ride east) to trace 500 years of tiles.
Evening: Make it a fado night in Alfama. Book a table at Clube de Fado (classic, candlelit, cod and octopus dishes between live sets) or Mesa de Frades (tiny former chapel with late sets; intimate and soulful). Pre‑or post‑show, try petiscos at Tasca do Chico (Bairro Alto) or a Lisbon gin at Gin Lovers in Embaixada.
Day 3: Sintra Day Trip (Palaces, Forests, and Fairytales)
Take the suburban train from Rossio Station to Sintra (about 40 minutes; ~€2.60 each way with Viva Viagem). Check times and book regional rail on Omio Trains (Europe) or buy at the station. In high season, aim for the first departures and buy timed palace tickets in advance.
- Route: On arrival, hop the 434 tourist bus loop or grab a taxi/ride to Pena Palace (riot of color and Neo‑Romantic turrets; allow 1.5–2 hours for palace and terraces). Walk down to the Moorish Castle for rampart views over Sintra’s green hills. After, descend to the historic center for lunch.
- Lunch in Sintra: Tascantiga (petiscos and local wines), Romaria de Baco (cozy, Portuguese plates), and Piriquita (iconic “travesseiros” and “queijadas” pastries) for dessert.
- Afternoon: Explore Quinta da Regaleira’s initiatic well, grottoes, and gardens—mystical and photogenic. If you’re a 19th‑century palace buff, swap in Monserrate’s exotic domes and botanical park instead.
- Return: Head back to Lisbon before dusk. For dinner, graze at Time Out Market: try Henrique Sá Pessoa’s stall (chef’s take on Portuguese classics), Marlene Vieira (seafood and stews), Asian Lab (spicy wok dishes), and Manteigaria for one last nata. If you prefer a sit‑down, book Bairro do Avillez (playful Portuguese cuisine under a single roof—Taberna, Páteo seafood).
Day 4: Belém Monuments and LX Factory, Then Fly
Morning: Take tram 15E or a quick rideshare to Belém (25–30 minutes). Visit Jerónimos Monastery (late‑Gothic/Manueline masterpiece; ~€10; closed Mondays) and the riverfront Belém Tower (~€6; also closed Mondays). The MAAT’s swooping white-tiled exterior is a striking photo stop; the museum’s exhibitions rotate (combined tickets ~€11).
Lunch: Join the queue at Pastéis de Belém (it moves fast; sprinkle cinnamon and sugar) and add a savory stop: O Frade (Bib Gourmand Alentejo cuisine—pork “secretos,” migas, excellent by‑the‑glass wines) or Pão Pão Queijo Queijo (casual, stuffed pitas and baguettes).
Early afternoon: Browse LX Factory in Alcântara—Ler Devagar bookstore’s towering presses, local design shops, and coffee at Wish Slow Coffee House. If you’ve time before the airport, walk the riverside promenade or pop into Cantina LX for a last espresso.
Departure: Allow ~45–60 minutes to reach the airport from Alcântara/Belém by rideshare or ~40–50 minutes by tram/metro connection. Check flights on Omio Flights (Europe). Note: If your Day 4 is a Monday, swap Belém with Day 2 to avoid monument closures.
Extra local gems (if you have spare pockets of time): Mercado de Campo de Ourique for a neighborhood food hall; Museu Calouste Gulbenkian for a world-class art collection; Marvila’s craft breweries like Musa (taproom) if you’re into beer; a sunset ferry to Cacilhas for dinner at Ponto Final across the river (book ahead).
Trip wrap-up: Four days in Lisbon let you taste Portugal’s seafaring past and creative present—tiles, trams, and timeless songs. With an easy hop from Gatwick, you’ll leave with salt on your lips, a camera full of miradouros, and a resolve to return for longer coastal rambles up the Portuguese coast.