Ilfracombe, tucked into North Devon’s ragged coastline, has been luring holidaymakers since Victorian times. The town’s famous Tunnels Beaches—hand-carved in the 1820s—opened cliff-protected tidal pools to polite society and still make for magical swims at low tide. Today, Ilfracombe blends seaside nostalgia with contemporary art, most visibly in “Verity,” Damien Hirst’s towering bronze at the harbour entrance.

Beyond the promenade, dramatic headlands, coves, and the South West Coast Path set the scene for bracing walks and dolphin-spotting boat trips. Capstone Hill offers postcard views; Lantern Hill’s whitewashed St Nicholas Chapel has guided mariners since the 14th century. Museums are delightfully quirky, seafood is freshly landed, and Exmoor’s moorland and wooded valleys sit just a short hop away.

Practical notes: Ilfracombe has no rail station—most visitors arrive via train to Barnstaple then bus or taxi. Many attractions are seasonal; check opening times, tide tables, and sea conditions, especially for Tunnels Beaches and boat trips. Expect classic British seaside fare alongside modern bistros, with plenty of local ales and a proper Devon cream tea (cream first or jam first—locals will have opinions).

Ilfracombe

Ilfracombe is a compact harbour town with cliff-backed beaches and a lively food scene. Wander from the Landmark Theatre’s twin cones to the quay, climb Lantern Hill for sweeping views, then reward yourself with fish and chips while watching fishing boats roll in.

• Top sights: Tunnels Beaches and Victorian tidal pool, Verity statue, St Nicholas Chapel, Capstone Hill, Ilfracombe Museum, Hele Bay, Chambercombe Manor (haunted lore), Watermouth Cove.
• Don’t miss: A seal and porpoise-spotting RIB ride, a coastal section of the South West Coast Path, and a day over the moor to Lynton & Lynmouth with their historic cliff railway.
• Where to stay: For sea views and easy strolling, base near the harbour or Landmark Theatre; for a quiet cove feel, look at Hele Bay; for families, consider apartments up by the parks and promenade.

Search stays: Find self-catering cottages and apartments on VRBO Ilfracombe or compare hotels and B&Bs on Hotels.com Ilfracombe. Look for harbour-view rooms, family suites near Wilder Road, and cozy cottages in Hele.

Getting there: From London, take a train to Barnstaple (via Exeter St Davids), ~4–4.5 hours, then a bus to Ilfracombe ~60–75 minutes. Check schedules and prices on Omio Trains (UK/Europe) and Omio Buses (typical combined cost £35–£85 depending on date). Flying into Bristol or Exeter? Compare regional options on Omio Flights (Europe). Coming from outside Europe, compare long-haul fares on Kiwi.com.

Day 1: Harbour Strolls, Lantern Light, and a Seaside Supper

Afternoon (arrival): Check in and stretch your legs along the promenade. Head to the harbour to meet “Verity,” Damien Hirst’s 20-meter bronze of a sword-bearing woman symbolizing truth and justice. Amble up Lantern Hill to St Nicholas Chapel—the little lighthouse-chapel has guarded the bay since the 1300s and glows at golden hour.

Coffee and a bite: For an easy pick-me-up, try the Landmark Theatre Café Bar for espresso and sea views, or pop into Nelly May’s Parlour later in the day for a vintage-style cream tea (homemade scones, clotted cream, and local jams).

Evening: Book dinner at Take Thyme on Fore Street—small, friendly, and seafood-forward (look for local scallops, hake, or a rich fish pie). Prefer Mediterranean small plates? The Terrace Tapas & Wine Bar pairs Devon cheeses and Iberian classics with Spanish reds in a snug, brick-lined room. Nightcap at Antidote, a stylish bar pouring classic cocktails and local gins; the staff are happy to steer you toward a perfect nightcap.

Day 2: Tunnels Beaches, Capstone Views, and a Coastal Boat Safari

Morning: Start with coffee and croissants at a local café near the High Street, then head for Tunnels Beaches. Carved in the 1820s, the tunnels reveal a sheltered tidal pool and dramatic rock formations; bring swimwear and water shoes if you fancy a dip. Admission is usually ~£3–£5; check tide times at the gate for safe swimming.

Afternoon: Grab lunch by the water at Lynbay Fish & Chips (lightly battered cod, mushy peas, and a harbor view are hard to beat). Walk off lunch by looping up Capstone Hill—ten minutes of climbing for sweeping views across the Bristol Channel and Lundy Island on clear days. If seas are kind, join an Ilfracombe Sea Safari RIB trip (1–2 hours, ~£25–£40) to spot seals, porpoises, and nesting seabirds along the cliffs.

Evening: For a pre-theatre early dinner, The Brasserie at The Carlton serves seasonal local produce—think Exmoor beef, Brixham fish, and Westcountry cheeses. Then catch a show or live music at the Landmark Theatre (programming ranges from comedy to ballet). Post-show, wander the quay for ice cream at Montpelier Dairy or a cone of North Devon’s beloved Hocking’s if the van is out.

Day 3: Exmoor Day Trip—Lynton, Lynmouth, and the Valley of Rocks

Morning: After a hearty breakfast, set out for Lynton & Lynmouth on the edge of Exmoor (drive ~30–40 minutes; bus options via Barnstaple run year-round, with a direct scenic service in season). Start with the cliffside Valley of Rocks—feral goats, castellated crags, and Atlantic panoramas make this an unforgettable coastal walk. Wear sturdy shoes; paths are exposed but well-marked.

Afternoon: Ride the water-powered Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway (~£5–£8 return), an 1890 marvel, then linger on Lynmouth’s esplanade. Lunch at The Oak Room in Lynton (tapas-style plates and local produce) or grab fish chowder and sourdough at a harbourside café. If time allows, hike to Watersmeet (National Trust) for a cream tea beside a tumbling river and ancient oaks.

Evening: Return to Ilfracombe. For a relaxed pub supper, try The Hele Bay pub—solid pints, local ciders, and hearty classics like steak-and-ale pie or line-caught fish. If you’re still buzzing from Exmoor, take a twilight stroll on the South West Coast Path towards Hillsborough Nature Reserve to close the day with sea air and lighthouse glimmers.

Day 4: Hele Bay, Museum Quirks, and Farewell Flavours

Morning: Ease into your last day with a quick coastal ramble from the harbour to Hele Bay (about 20–30 minutes on the South West Coast Path). The cove is pebbly and peaceful, with sea caves at low tide. When open (seasonal, typically spring–autumn), Hele Corn Mill & Tea Room serves excellent cakes; otherwise, a simple coffee near the beach does the trick.

Afternoon (pre-departure): Pop into Ilfracombe Museum for a brisk wander through its delightfully offbeat collections (shells, Victorian curios, maritime history; ~£4–£6). Pick up a quick lunch—Giovanni & Luca does comforting Italian (house-made sauces, seafood linguine), while a return to the harbour for a crab sandwich is a classic send-off. Depart in the afternoon by bus back to Barnstaple and onward by train—browse schedules and tickets on Omio Trains and Omio Buses.

Food & Drink Shortlist (Save for Later)

• Breakfast & Coffee: Landmark Theatre Café Bar (coastal views), Nelly May’s Parlour (cream teas, cakes), high-street cafés for quick cappuccinos and pastries.
• Lunch: Lynbay Fish & Chips (harbour classic), Giovanni & Luca (Italian comfort), seaside cafés near the promenade for soup-and-sandwich combos.
• Dinner: Take Thyme (locally landed seafood), The Terrace Tapas & Wine Bar (Spanish small plates, sherries), The Brasserie at The Carlton (modern British).
• Drinks: Antidote (cocktails and gin), traditional pubs near the harbour (local ales, cider), and summer ice-cream runs to Montpelier Dairy or the Hocking’s van.

Practical Tips

• Tides & seasons: Plan Tunnels Beaches and rock-pooling for low tide; many attractions and buses run extended schedules in spring–autumn.
• On foot: Ilfracombe is hilly—bring comfortable shoes and a windproof layer.
• Day trip options: In fair weather, Lundy Island sailings (Mar/Apr–Oct most years) leave from Ilfracombe or Bideford; schedules are limited and sell out early. If seas look rough, swap for Exmoor walks or Woolacombe Beach (bus ~25 minutes).
• Where to stay: Compare harbour-view hotels and family-friendly apartments on Hotels.com Ilfracombe and coastal cottages on VRBO Ilfracombe.
• Getting in/out: For UK/European rail and coach, use Omio Trains and Omio Buses. For European flights, check Omio Flights. Long-haul travelers can compare on Kiwi.com.

In four days, you’ll have tasted Ilfracombe’s sea air, climbed its view-packed hills, and sampled its proud seafood kitchens. With Exmoor and Woolacombe close at hand, this compact itinerary delivers both cliff-edge drama and cozy harbour-town comforts—just the tonic for a UK coastal escape.