Exmoor National Park straddles Somerset and Devon on England’s southwest peninsula, where windswept moors tumble into a craggy coastline. Once a royal hunting forest, Exmoor is now a protected wilderness of heather-clad hills, ancient oak woods, and the River Exe’s tranquil headwaters. Expect medieval villages, cliff-railways, and wide-open skies that glow with stars—Exmoor is one of Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserves.

History here hides in plain sight: a Norman castle at Dunster, a 3,000-year-old clapper bridge at Tarr Steps, and packhorse lanes threading farmsteads and tiny parishes. On the coast, Lynton & Lynmouth rise and fall via a Victorian water-powered cliff railway, while goats roam the Valley of Rocks like shaggy sentinels of the sea. Exmoor ponies and red deer still graze the combes and commons, especially dramatic around dawn and dusk.

Driving is the easiest way to explore; lanes are narrow and hedged, so take it unhurried. Weather changes quickly—pack layers and sturdy boots. You’ll eat well: think farmhouse cheeses, Exmoor lamb, fresh local fish, and cream teas that demand a brisk walk after. Pubs pour Exmoor Gold and hearty ciders; cafés warm cold fingers with rich coffee and sticky toffee pudding.

Dulverton

Nestled on the River Barle, Dulverton is the most convenient base for seeing Exmoor end-to-end. It’s a proper small town—outfitters, delis, a heritage center—without losing that “moorland gateway” feel. From here, you’re 20 minutes to Tarr Steps, 35 minutes to Dunster, and 45 minutes to the cliff villages of Lynton & Lynmouth.

Food in Dulverton punches far above its size. Woods Bar & Restaurant pairs a Best UK Wine List pedigree with expertly cooked local venison and steaks. Tongdam is a long-loved Thai spot for fragrant curries after a day in the wind. For day-fueling coffee and bakes, drop into The Tantivy (deli-café, great for picnic supplies) or the old-school Copper Kettle for cream teas and scones.

• Top sights from Dulverton: Tarr Steps clapper bridge, Dunkery Beacon (Exmoor’s highest point), Dunster Castle & village, Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway, Valley of Rocks, Watersmeet gorge, Porlock Weir harbor.
• Stay: Search character cottages, riverside apartments, and inns on VRBO Dulverton or browse hotels and B&Bs via Hotels.com Dulverton. If Dulverton is booked, also consider Lynmouth or Dunster.
• Getting there: From London, trains to Taunton or Tiverton Parkway take about 1h45–2h; then bus (~1h15) or taxi (~45–60 min) to Dulverton. Plan UK rail/bus on Omio Trains and Omio Buses. Flights within Europe to Bristol or Exeter can be searched on Omio Flights. Long-haul options: Kiwi.com Flights or Trip.com Flights. Car hire at Bristol/Exeter airports is straightforward; expect £35–£65/day.

Day 1: Arrival, Dulverton Walks, and Dark-Sky Welcome

Morning: Travel to Exmoor. If coming by rail, aim for Taunton or Tiverton Parkway (about 2 hours from London Paddington). From there, a taxi to Dulverton takes 45–60 minutes. Book UK trains/buses with Omio Trains and Omio Buses; within Europe flights on Omio Flights, or long-haul via Kiwi.com or Trip.com.

Afternoon: Check in to your Dulverton stay (VRBO or Hotels.com). Stretch your legs on the pretty 45–60 minute loop from the town center to Marsh Bridge and back along the River Barle. Pop into the Dulverton Heritage Centre for a quick primer on the town’s wool-trade past and Exmoor ponies.

Evening: Dinner at Woods Bar & Restaurant (book ahead; try the Exmoor venison or ribeye, and ask for a glass from their award-winning list). For something casual, Tongdam serves excellent Thai—panang curry hits the spot on cool nights. Cap the night with a 20-minute drive up to Webbers Post or Dunkery Beacon for stargazing; Exmoor’s dark skies reveal the Milky Way on clear evenings. Bring a headlamp and warm layers.

Day 2: Tarr Steps, River Barle, and Medieval Dunster

Morning: Coffee and pastries at The Tantivy, then drive 20 minutes to Tarr Steps, a prehistoric clapper bridge of massive stone slabs. Walk the 2-mile riverside loop through oak woods (allow 1.5–2 hours). Keep an eye out for dippers on the river and feral Exmoor ponies on the surrounding commons. Parking is pay-and-display; bring coins or contactless.

Afternoon: Continue 35 minutes to Dunster, a perfectly preserved medieval village. Tour Dunster Castle and its subtropical gardens (allow 1.5–2 hours; adult admission usually in the mid-teens GBP). Don’t miss the working watermill and stroll to the old Yarn Market and Gallox Bridge. Take cream tea at the castle’s Watermill tearoom or a slice of Victoria sponge in the village.

Evening: Dinner at The Luttrell Arms in Dunster—cosy dining rooms and West Country dishes (Exmoor lamb, day-boat fish). Back in Dulverton, finish with a pint of Exmoor Gold at The Bridge Inn or a nightcap at Woods. Drive times: Dunster to Dulverton ~35 minutes via the A396.

Day 3: Lynton & Lynmouth, Cliff Railway, Valley of Rocks, Watersmeet

Morning: Grab breakfast-to-go from The Copper Kettle and drive ~45 minutes to the twin villages of Lynton & Lynmouth. Ride the Victorian, water-powered Cliff Railway (return fare about £6) for sweeping Bristol Channel views. Walk the coastal path to the volcanic Valley of Rocks (1–2 hours leisurely; feral goats often pose on the outcrops). Coffee stop: Charlie Friday’s Coffee in Lynton—specialty beans and excellent cakes.

Afternoon: From Lynmouth, follow the well-marked river path to Watersmeet (about 45–60 minutes each way), a dramatic gorge where tea has been poured for over a century. If the National Trust tea garden is out of season, picnic by the rapids or lunch back in Lynmouth at the Ancient Mariner bar (local crab, chowder, and sea views) at The Bath Hotel.

Evening: Golden-hour views from Countisbury Hill or Foreland Point are sublime—watch for red deer on the slopes. Dinner options: stay coastal at the Ancient Mariner (seafood and cask ales), or head back to Dulverton for a late supper at Tongdam. Driving back after dusk? Take it slow—deer are active.

Day 4: Steam Trains or Porlock Weir, Then Departure

Morning: Two excellent wrap-up options. A) Drive 45 minutes to Minehead for a ride on the West Somerset Railway, a heritage steam line puffing through coastal farmland (choose a return of 1–2.5 hours; fares typically from the low £20s—check the day’s timetable). Coffee near the station and a stroll on the esplanade round it out. B) Alternatively, explore Porlock Weir (40 minutes from Dulverton): tide-washed harbor, shingle beach, and an easy coastal path toward the tiny woodland Culbone Church if time allows. Watch tides and footing on cobbles.

Afternoon: Lunch by the water at the Porlock Weir Hotel (local fish, Exmoor beef burgers) or in Porlock village cafés. Return to Dulverton to collect bags and depart: Taunton or Tiverton Parkway for trains (1–1.5 hours including the drive), or Bristol/Exeter airports (about 55–90 minutes by car). Plan rail/bus via Omio Trains and Omio Buses; flights via Omio Flights, Kiwi.com, or Trip.com.

Evening: If you’re on a late train or flight, fit in one last moor-top detour to Dunkery Beacon (25 minutes from Dulverton) for a goodbye panorama across Exmoor to the Bristol Channel and, on crystal days, the distant hills of Wales.

In four days you’ll have traced Exmoor’s greatest hits—ancient bridges, a fairy-tale castle, cliff-hung villages, and lonely moorland where the wind carries curlew song. Keep this guide handy; Exmoor rewards repeat visits with new footpaths, seasons of color, and star-struck skies that never look the same twice.