4 Days in Edinburgh: Castles, Closes, Highlands, and Hidden Bars
Edinburgh rewards the curious. Its layered Old Town—woven with centuries-old “closes” and vaults—meets an elegant New Town born of the Scottish Enlightenment. Twin skylines of spires and classical crescents bracket a volcanic fortress: Edinburgh Castle, the city’s stony crown.
Beyond the cobbles, the Scottish Highlands unfurl in dramatic glens and lochs. Day trips from Edinburgh put Glencoe, Loch Ness, and Cairngorms National Park within reach, while back in town, whisky bars, storytellers, and inventive kitchens keep the evenings lively. August brings the Fringe and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, but the city feels theatrical year-round.
Pack for changeable weather, book key attractions and tables ahead, and walk when you can—this is a compact, eminently strollable capital. Expect superb coffee, farm-led Scottish cuisine, and atmospheric pubs where folk music spills into the night.
Edinburgh
Old Town is your medieval labyrinth: the Royal Mile, St Giles’ soaring crown spire, and closes whispering of merchants, scholars, and ghosts. New Town delivers graceful Georgian avenues, independent shops, and leafy squares. Venture to Calton Hill for a sunrise panorama and to Dean Village for postcard-perfect riverside tranquility.
- Top sights: Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile, National Museum of Scotland, Calton Hill, Arthur’s Seat, Dean Village, Royal Botanic Garden, Scottish National Gallery.
- Local flavor: Hog roast rolls at Oink, haggis and neeps at Makars, seafood at Ondine or in Leith, and dazzling cocktails at Bramble or Panda & Sons.
- Fun facts: The city inspired J.K. Rowling’s wizarding world; Arthur Conan Doyle studied medicine here; and the New Town helped launch the Enlightenment.
Getting to Edinburgh: Fly into Edinburgh (EDI) or arrive by train at Waverley in the city center.
- Flights within/to Europe: Compare fares and times on Omio (flights). Typical times: London 1h20, Dublin 1h, Paris 1h50.
- Flights from outside Europe: Search global options on Trip.com (flights) or Kiwi.com.
- Trains in Europe: London King’s Cross to Edinburgh Waverley via LNER is ~4h20–4h45; advance fares often £40–£120. Check Omio (trains).
- Buses and ferries: Long-distance coaches into Edinburgh run overnight (8–10 hours from London). Compare on Omio (buses) or Omio (ferries).
- Airport to city: Edinburgh Trams take ~35 minutes from EDI to Princes Street; an adult airport single is typically around £7.50. Taxis are ~30 minutes depending on traffic.
Where to stay (handpicked + search tools):
- Search all stays: Hotels.com: Edinburgh | VRBO: Edinburgh
- The Balmoral Hotel (iconic clocktower, afternoon tea, and impeccable service) — Check The Balmoral
- Novotel Edinburgh Centre (modern comfort near Grassmarket; good for families) — Check Novotel Edinburgh Centre
- The Grassmarket Hotel (fun design in a lively square beneath the Castle) — Check The Grassmarket Hotel
- Castle Rock Hostel (budget favorite with unbeatable Castle views) — Check Castle Rock Hostel
Day 1: Arrival, Royal Mile Ramble, and Ghostly Old Town
Morning: Travel day. If you’re coming from elsewhere in the UK, the train rolls straight into Waverley beneath Calton Hill. Flyers can hop the tram from EDI to the city center in about 35 minutes. For last-minute comparisons, use Omio (trains) or Omio (flights); long-haul options are easiest via Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
Afternoon: Check in, then ease into Edinburgh with a Royal Mile wander: St Giles’ Cathedral’s crown spire, closes like Advocate’s Close for surprise Castle views, and buskers by the Tron. Pause at The Milkman or Lowdown Coffee for a flat white, then browse indie shops on Victoria Street—the curve that launched many a fantasy storefront.
Evening: Warm up with Highland fare at Howies (Victoria Street; venison and seasonal Cullen skink), Makars Gourmet Mash Bar (Scottish mains over pillowy mash), or The Devil’s Advocate (modern Scottish plates and a deep whisky list in a former pump house). Then plunge beneath the city on the atmospheric Underground Vaults Walking Tour in Edinburgh Old Town—a spine-tingling introduction to Edinburgh’s darker tales.

Nightcap options: The Bow Bar (real-ale and whisky temple), Bramble (inventive cocktails below street level), or Sandy Bell’s (lively trad music).
Day 2: Castle to Culture—Icons, Museums, and Whisky
Morning: Breakfast at The Edinburgh Larder (porridge with heather honey; black pudding bap) or Söderberg (Scandi buns and strong coffee). Walk up the Esplanade for the Edinburgh Castle Guided Walking Tour in English, which frames 3,000 years of history—from the Honours of Scotland to Mons Meg—with commanding views over the Firth of Forth.

Afternoon: Drop into the National Museum of Scotland (free, vast, and delightfully hands-on), then loop through Grassmarket and Greyfriars Kirkyard for the tale of Greyfriars Bobby. Quick, delicious lunch: Oink (hog roast with crackling and apple sauce) or Luckenbooths (comfort classics with Old Town views). Sweet stop at Mary’s Milk Bar for small-batch gelato.
Evening: Whisky and modern Scottish dining. Try The Devil’s Advocate (venison haunch, Isle of Mull cheddar soufflé) or Whiski Rooms (tastings paired with hearty mains). For a post-dinner speakeasy, slip into Panda & Sons—look for the barbershop façade—and end with a stroll along George Street’s lit terraces.
Day 3: Full-Day Highlands & Loch Ness Adventure
Set out early for a grand circuit of Scotland’s mountain heart on the Scottish Highlands, Loch Ness and Glencoe Day Trip from Edinburgh (often ~12 hours, departures near the Royal Mile; typical prices from about £70–£90 depending on season). Expect stirring stops: Rannoch Moor and Glencoe’s volcanic drama, views of Ben Nevis, and time at Loch Ness—where you can opt for a short cruise and scan for Nessie. Your guide weaves clan history and Highland lore between photo breaks and café stops.

Tips: Dress in layers; bring a waterproof and snacks. Lunch is usually at a Highland village like Fort Augustus (fish and chips, pies, or soup). You’ll return early evening—grab an easy bite near your hotel or reward yourself with a relaxed pint at The Last Drop in Grassmarket.
Day 4: Views, Villages, and Tastes Before Departure
Morning: Catch sunrise on Calton Hill for a city-wide panorama, or take the short-but-steep hike up Arthur’s Seat for volcanic vistas. Brunch at The Pantry (Stockbridge; French toast, tattie scones, great for families) or Twelve Triangles (baked goods to go). If you prefer a guided culinary deep-dive, book the Edinburgh Food Tour with Scotch, Haggis, a Secret Dish & More—a tasty primer on Scotland’s larder and drams in about three hours.

Afternoon: Stroll the Water of Leith Walkway through Dean Village’s millstones and bridges to Stockbridge’s boutiques. If it’s Sunday, browse Stockbridge Market for small producers and street eats. With extra time before your flight or train, tram to Leith for harborside coffee at Williams & Johnson and a seafood lunch at The Shore or The Ship on the Shore; the Royal Yacht Britannia is docked nearby if you fancy a quick look around the precinct.
Evening: Departure day assumes an afternoon getaway. If your schedule’s looser, toast the trip with oysters and grilled langoustines at Ondine, or head to Leith’s The Kitchin or The Scran & Scallie for seasonal Scottish excellence (book ahead).
Practical notes: Many sights are walkable; buses and trams are frequent and contactless-friendly. In peak months (May–September and August festivals), prebook major attractions, tours, and dinners. For onward European trains, compare on Omio (trains); for flights, check Omio (flights) or global routes via Trip.com and Kiwi.com.
Optional swap-ins if you like:
- Royal Mile + Castle combo: Edinburgh Castle & Royal Mile Walking Tour - Ticket Included.
- Glenfinnan Viaduct focus: Full-Day Trip: Glenfinnan Viaduct & The Highlands.
Where to stay recap: For landmark luxury, choose The Balmoral Hotel. For stylish mid-range, Novotel Edinburgh Centre or The Grassmarket Hotel. For budget and community vibes, Castle Rock Hostel. Or browse neighborhoods and flats on VRBO and compare hotels on Hotels.com.
Summary: Four days in Edinburgh blends medieval intrigue, world-class museums, and a day among the Highlands’ epic landscapes. With this itinerary’s castle tours, underground stories, local flavors, and scenic walks, you’ll leave with the city under your skin—and a reason to return.