4 Days in Alappuzha (Alleppey): Backwaters, Houseboats, and Kerala Cuisine
Welcome to Alappuzha—better known to travelers as Alleppey—the historic backwater gateway of Kerala. Once a bustling port under the Travancore kingdom, Alappuzha grew rich on spice, coir, and coconut trade. Today, it’s a serene world of mirrored canals, emerald paddy fields, and houseboats gliding past village life.
Travelers come for Vembanad Lake, the Kuttanad “Rice Bowl of Kerala” (one of the few places in the world where farming happens below sea level), and the timeless rhythm of wooden canoes and shikara boats. Between cruises, you’ll find a lively beach, a lighthouse with sweeping views, and private museums filled with art and curios collected by Kerala’s merchant families.
Plan for warm days, sea breezes, and seasonal monsoon showers (June–September). November–March offers the most reliable weather. Carry mosquito repellent for evenings, modest attire for temples, and an appetite for appam with stew, fresh toddy-shop seafood, and fiery Kerala fish curry.
Alappuzha (Alleppey)
Backwaters define Alappuzha: networks of canals, lakes, and palm-lined waterways where daily life unfolds on the water’s edge. Expect kingfisher flashes, rice barges turned into comfortable houseboats, and village teashops perfumed with cardamom.
Top sights and experiences include shikara rides on quiet canals, an overnight houseboat cruise on Vembanad Lake, Kuttanad paddy fields, Alappuzha Beach and Lighthouse, Revi Karunakaran Memorial Museum (Tanjore art, crystal, ivory), and the Coir Museum that tells the story of Kerala’s famed coir industry.
- Where to stay: For lake views and easy jetty access, base yourself near Punnamada. For sunsets and sand, pick Alappuzha Beach. For ultra-quiet, stay just north at Mararikulam near Marari Beach.
- Book stays: Browse lakeside homestays and villas on VRBO or compare hotels and heritage bungalows on Hotels.com.
- Getting there: Fly into Kochi (COK), then taxi 2–2.5 hours (INR 2,500–4,000). Search flights on Trip.com or Kiwi.com. From Ernakulam Junction (Kochi) to Alappuzha, trains take ~1–1.5 hours (from ~INR 60 in 2S). Check schedules on Trip.com Trains.
Day 1: Arrival, First Taste of the Backwaters, and a Beach Sunset
Morning: Travel to Kochi (COK) and transfer to Alappuzha. If you’re peckish on the way, grab banana chips and tender coconut from roadside stalls—Kerala’s classic road snacks.
Afternoon: Check into your stay near Punnamada Lake or the beach. For a late lunch, try Indian Coffee House (Mullackal) for crisp masala dosa and strong filter coffee, or Halais Restaurant & Bakery for Malabar biryani and fresh pastries.
Evening: Ease into the backwaters with a golden-hour shikara cruise, perfect for quiet canals and birdlife.
Shikara Boat Tour Alleppey Backwater Fantastic Boat Cruise — a photogenic glide past Kainakary and village canals.

After the ride, stroll Alappuzha Beach and, time permitting, climb the Lighthouse (usually late afternoon hours; often closed Mondays). Dine at Kream Korner Art Café (casual, Kerala plates plus continental favorites, art on the walls) or head to Cafe Catamaran by the beach for grilled catch-of-the-day and lime sodas under the palms.
Day 2: Board Your Overnight Houseboat on Vembanad Lake
Morning: Light breakfast—idiyappam (string hoppers) with egg curry—then browse Mullakkal Street for spices (black pepper, cardamom) and banana halwa to bring aboard.
Afternoon–Overnight: Board your private kettuvallam (traditional rice barge) around 12:30–1:00 pm. Settle into your cabin, meet the cook and captain, and cruise past Punnamada and Kuttanad’s green paddy quilt. Lunch is usually Kerala thali: matta rice, turmeric-tinted vegetables, sambar, papad, and a fried fish if you wish. Sunset arrives with the silhouette of coconut palms and the splash of feeding cormorants.
Kochi Private Tour: Overnight Alleppey Backwaters Houseboat Cruise — a classic, fully-catered Alleppey experience with a private crew.

Dinner aboard might feature karimeen pollichathu (pearl spot fish wrapped in banana leaf) and cabbage thoran. AC typically runs at night; bring mosquito repellent for dusk on deck. In the quiet after dinner, look for the moon mirrored on still water—Alappuzha at its most poetic.
Alternative (if you prefer a day cruise and a night on land): Consider a relaxed backwater day trip with an onboard Kerala lunch, then return to your hotel.
Aleppey Backwater Tour with Kerala Traditional Lunch — a half-day taste of the canals and countryside with regional flavors.

Day 3: Marari Beach, Museums, and Temple Quarter Evenings
Morning: Disembark after breakfast (~9:00 am). Head north 30–40 minutes to Marari Beach for a swim and a long barefoot walk. This stretch is quieter than Alappuzha Beach; mornings are best for calm seas. Refuel with fresh pineapple sprinkled with chili-salt from beach vendors.
Afternoon: Return to town for culture. The Revi Karunakaran Memorial Museum (private collection; typically closed Mondays) showcases Tanjore art, crystal, and ivory work—small but meticulously curated. If you’re curious about Kerala’s rope-making heritage, the Coir Museum (Kalavoor) explains how coconut fiber built livelihoods here, with live demonstrations on busy days.
Evening: Wander the Mullakkal Rajarajeswari Temple bazaar around dusk for oil-lamp glow and snack on pazhampori (banana fritters) and parippu vada (lentil fritters) from teashops. For dinner, try Thaff Family Restaurant for Kerala parotta with beef varattiyathu or spicy fish curry; vegetarians can order avial, kootu curry, and vegetable stew with appam. If you’d like a treatment, book a 60–90 minute Ayurvedic abhyanga massage nearby before dinner—perfect after travel and sun.
Day 4: Fort Kochi Highlights or Birdlife on Pathiramanal, then Departure
Morning (Option A – if flying out of Kochi): Depart Alappuzha by 7:30–8:00 am for Fort Kochi (about 1.5–2 hours). Explore the harborfront, spice lanes, and layered colonial history by tuk-tuk before your flight.
Private Fort kochi Tuk-Tuk Tour — customize stops such as the Chinese Fishing Nets, St. Francis Church, the Dutch Palace, and the Paradesi Synagogue, with snack breaks for banana chips and masala tea.

After lunch, continue to Kochi Airport (COK) in ~1–1.5 hours for your afternoon departure. Search flights on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
Morning (Option B – if you’re staying local until departure): Take an early boat toward Pathiramanal Island for birdwatching—egrets, herons, and migratory visitors in season. Back in town, climb the Lighthouse if you missed it on Day 1, then sip one last filter coffee at Indian Coffee House.
Afternoon: Final Kerala lunch—order meen curry (fish in kokum-tamarind gravy) with red rice, or vegetable stew with appam. Pick up spices to take home, then transfer to your train or onward car. Trains from Alappuzha to Ernakulam run frequently (~1–1.5 hours; reserve on Trip.com Trains).
Practical tips: Carry cash for small shops, though UPI is widely accepted. Many museums close on Mondays; confirm hours the day before. The sun is strong even when overcast—use reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, and drink plenty of water.
At-a-glance food picks:
- Breakfast: Indian Coffee House (dosa, omelets, filter coffee); local teashops for puttu-kadala (steamed rice cake with chickpeas).
- Lunch: Thaff Family Restaurant (Kerala meals), Halais (biryani, Arabian grills).
- Dinner: Kream Korner Art Café (Kerala and continental), beachside grilled fish near Alappuzha Beach or Marari Beach shacks.
- Snacks: Banana chips, pazhampori, parippu vada, and toddy-shop specials like crab roast (ask your host for a reputable licensed spot).
Need more backwater time? Add a morning shikara in narrower canals or a guided canoe in Kuttanad to see paddy fields at eye level—each gives a different angle on Alleppey’s waterways.
Alappuzha is where time slows: sunrise paddles, glittering canals, and plates fragrant with curry leaves. In four days you’ll sample shikara serenity, sleep on the backwaters, and savor the coast—leaving with spice in your bag and the lake’s hush in your ears.

