30 Days in Lebanon: A Slow-Travel Itinerary for Beirut, Byblos, and the Cedars

A month-long Mediterranean journey through Beirut’s energy, Byblos’ ancient harbor, and the cool mountain air of the Cedars—layered with Roman ruins, coastal lounging, and soul-stirring valleys.
Explore the stunning ancient Roman ruins under a clear blue sky in Lebanon.
Photo by Boris Ulzibat on Pexels

Lebanon rewards time. A month here lets you savor Beirut’s café culture and nightlife, trace ancient footsteps in Byblos and Tyre, and breathe cedar-scented air in the high mountains. Few places pack this much history and hospitality into such short distances.

From Phoenicians and Romans to Ottomans and French Mandate planners, Lebanon’s layers are visible everywhere—colonnaded temples in Baalbek, Crusader walls above Byblos’ harbor, monasteries hewn into the Qadisha Valley. Between these, you’ll find beaches, hiking trails, family-run bakeries, and seaside tables piled with mezze.

Practical notes (March 2025): Check current travel advisories before you go and carry some USD—many prices are posted in dollars. Expect generator-backed power at hotels, ride-hailing and taxis in cities, and excellent day-tour options for historic sites. Dress modestly for religious sites, bring good walking shoes, and download an offline map for mountain days.

Beirut

Beirut is your gateway and your anchor—a city of sea breezes, bookish cafés, and late-night tables. The Corniche curves past the sea stack of Raouche, while downtown and Gemmayzeh showcase archaeology and a resurgent arts scene. Use Beirut as a base for classic day trips to Baalbek, Sidon and Tyre, and the Jeita Grotto.

Getting there: Fly into Beirut–Rafic Hariri International. Search fares on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com; if you’re departing from Europe, compare options on Omio flights. From the airport, prebook a private car for stress-free arrival: Airport Arrival Transfer to Your Beirut Hotel.

Where to stay:

Eating and drinking: Start with thick Arabic coffee at Café Younes (Hamra) or Kalei Coffee Co. (Mar Mikhael). For breakfast, seek out manousheh from Furn Em Nazih or za’atar wraps at Barbar, the beloved 24-hour institution. Lunch on mezze and grills at Loris in Gemmayze or classic Lebanese at Abd El Wahab. For a splurge dinner, Em Sherif crafts a refined, nostalgic feast; Mayrig serves superb Armenian specialties like mante dumplings. End with rose-water ice cream at Hanna Mitri.

Days 1–5: Settle into Beirut—Corniche, museums, and old souks

Walk the Corniche from Ain el Mreisseh to Pigeons’ Rock at sunset, joining families and fishermen along the promenade. Explore the National Museum of Beirut to read the city’s strata—from Bronze Age sarcophagi to Phoenician artifacts—then browse the Beirut Souks area for architecture, not shopping.

Stroll through Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael for independent galleries, vintage boutiques, and Beirut’s cocktail renaissance. For a first-timer’s overview with local context and a sea-level perspective, consider:

Dinners this block: Le Chef (Gemmayze; beloved neighborhood spot), Mezyan (Hamra; Levantine home-cooking), and Dar El Gemmayze for live music with your mezze.

Days 6–10: Bekaa Valley temples and wine

Dedicate a full day to Baalbek—one of the greatest Roman sites on earth. The towering columns of the Temple of Jupiter and intricate stonework of Bacchus feel otherworldly. Pair it with Umayyad ruins at Anjar and a tasting at Château Ksara in the Bekaa.

Between touring days, nibble your way through Beirut: Souk El Tayeb’s farmers’ market pop-ups for seasonal produce and kibbeh nayyeh; Falafel Freiha for a crunchy classic; and sweets at Patisserie Abdel Rahman Hallab & Sons.

Days 11–15: Southern coastline—Sidon, Tyre, and sea breezes

South of Beirut, Sidon (Saida) reveals a Crusader Sea Castle and a warren-like soap museum, while Tyre (Sour) preserves a vast Roman hippodrome and glass-blue beaches. This is a perfect day trip, with lunch of fresh-caught fish by the water.

Back in Beirut, swim at Sporting Club or lounge at a day-access pool, then enjoy seafood at Al Falamanki Raouche or grilled octopus at a modern bistro in Downtown. Nightcaps at Torino Express or a speakeasy-style cocktail bar in Mar Mikhael.

Beirut to Byblos travel (morning of Day 16): Depart after breakfast. Private driver/taxi: ~1–1.5 hours, $45–70 depending on traffic. Intercity minibus from Dora: ~1.5 hours, ~$3–5. Rental car gives flexibility for coastal villages and mountain detours.

Byblos & Batroun Coast

Byblos (Jbeil) has been continuously inhabited for over 7,000 years. Today its Crusader Castle peers over a tiny harbor ringed with fishing boats and restaurants. Nearby Batroun adds surf, beach clubs, a craft brewery, and its famous lemonade stands—perfect for long coastal afternoons.

Base yourself in Byblos for history and romance, then roam north and south for sea, grottos, and paragliding over Jounieh Bay.

Where to stay:

Where to eat: In Byblos, try Feniqia for Levantine dishes with creative twists and Chez Pepe or Bab El Mina for classic harbor seafood. In Batroun, Colonel Brewery serves house ales, grilled platters, and a lively beach scene; Chez Maguy feels like a fisherman’s home—sea-to-table and sunset-perfect. Don’t miss Hilmi’s House of Lemonade, a Batroun ritual since the 19th century.

Days 16–20: Old Byblos, beaches, and the grottos

Start at Byblos Castle and the archaeological site, then wander the old souk’s stone alleys. Drift down to the tiny port for mezze by the water and a boat ride if seas are calm. Alternate your days between historical strolling and beach time on nearby sands.

Evenings: stroll the ramparts, then settle into a candlelit table for grilled fish and fattoush. For a sweet finish, knafeh from a local bakery in the souk hits the spot.

Days 21–23: Batroun days—lemonade, surf, and a flight over the bay

Base in Byblos and spend these days up the road in Batroun (20–30 minutes). Swim at Colonel Reef or a quieter cove, sip iced lemonade, then browse the old town’s churches and lanes. Sunset brings golden light on the Phoenician wall.

Dining in Batroun: Colonel Brewery for casual grills, Chez Maguy for seafood with toes-in-sand vibes, and a late gelato as you wander the lit stone alleys.

Byblos to Bcharre (Cedars) travel (morning of Day 24): Leave around 8am. Via Qadisha Valley road, allow 2–2.5 hours by car/driver due to mountain switchbacks. Expect $70–110 for a private transfer; fuel-efficient rentals make this stretch very rewarding for scenic stops.

Bcharre (Cedars of Lebanon) & Qadisha Valley

The mountains above Bcharre hold the storied Cedars of Lebanon—trees that supplied timber for ancient temples and ships. Monasteries cling to cliffs in the UNESCO-listed Qadisha Valley, while the Gibran Museum honors the poet of The Prophet. Cool nights, hearty village food, starry skies.

Where to stay:

Where to eat: Al Midan is a local favorite for grilled meats, kibbeh, and mountain-style mezze. Warm up with lentil soup after hikes, then finish with Lebanese rice pudding perfumed with orange blossom. Small bakeries serve spinach fatayer to-go for trail snacks.

Days 24–27: Cedars, monasteries, and mountain trails

Walk the protected Cedars forest loop to meet living symbols of Lebanon—gnarled giants that have watched centuries pass. Visit the Gibran Museum, then descend into the Qadisha (Kadisha) Valley for hermitages and cave chapels.

Pack layers—mountain weather swings. In the evenings, sip arak by the fireplace and trade stories with hospitable locals.

Days 28–29: Northern detours and return to Beirut

Detour to Tripoli’s Ottoman-era souks and the 12th-century Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles, then pause in Batroun for a final swim. Alternatively, linger for another high-altitude hike above the valley.

Return to Beirut: Bcharre to Beirut is ~2–2.5 hours by car (morning departures reduce traffic). Private transfer ~$90–120; shared minibuses are available with a change in Tripoli.

Day 30: Beirut finale—markets, art, and farewell feast

Circle back for last-minute crafts in Saifi Village boutiques or the old streets of Gemmayzeh. Visit the Sursock Museum if open during your dates, then share a leisurely mezze spread—hummus whipped smooth, tabbouleh bright with parsley, grilled lamb—and toast your month with a glass of Bekaa red.

Optional add-ons from any base:

Logistics and tips:

  • City transport: Taxis and ride-hailing are common in Beirut; agree on fares or use apps. Intercity minibuses are inexpensive but irregular; private drivers save time.
  • Costs (estimates, 2025): Beirut–Byblos taxi $45–70; Byblos–Bcharre $70–110; Bcharre–Beirut $90–120. Day tours typically run from budget group options to private, with hotel pickup.
  • Connectivity: Consider an eSIM upon landing; many cafés have Wi‑Fi. Dress modestly at religious sites; carry a light scarf.

Thirty days in Lebanon let you trace the Mediterranean coast, climb into cedar forests, and dine like family. The country’s scale invites unhurried discovery: one long conversation, one monastery, one mezze plate at a time.

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