Varanasi—also called Kashi and Benares—may be the world’s oldest continually inhabited city, where faith hums like a tanpura along the Ganges. Pilgrims bathe at dawn, pyres glow at dusk, and an ancient rhythm guides life along more than 80 ghats. Over three days, you’ll witness rituals that have unfolded here for centuries.

Founded on myth and memory, Varanasi sits at the heart of Hindu tradition and is a short hop from Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon. The city is also a magnet for classical music, silk weaving, and poetry—Kabir and Tulsidas echo in its lanes. Expect narrow alleys, temple bells, and vendors chanting offers of chai and paan.

Practical notes: Dress modestly for temples, remove footwear where required, and avoid photography at cremation ghats. The best months are October–March (mornings can be foggy and cool), while May–June can be very hot. Keep small cash handy (UPI widely accepted), and use e‑rickshaws or boats to avoid jammed lanes.

Varanasi

Varanasi is a living tapestry—saffron-clad sadhus, marigold-strewn steps, and boats gliding past ancient palaces. The headline experiences are simple and profound: a sunrise boat ride, the evening Ganga Aarti, and a slow walk through the old city lanes to Kashi Vishwanath Temple.

Top sights include Dashashwamedh and Assi Ghats, Kashi Vishwanath Temple and its new corridor, Manikarnika (the main cremation ghat), and BHU’s leafy campus with Bharat Kala Bhavan museum. Just outside the city, Sarnath preserves a calm, contemplative side of the Ganga plain.

• Eat & drink: Sample kachori-sabzi at Ram Bhandar, chaat at Kashi Chaat Bhandar, and malaiyyo (winter mornings) in Thatheri Bazaar. Sip thick lassi at Blue Lassi Shop, and linger over coffee at Open Hand Café near Assi Ghat.
• Culture & crafts: Meet weavers in Madanpura who create luminous Banarasi saris on handlooms. Look for zari work and ask about time-to-weave—some bridal saris take weeks.
• Insider tip: At Assi Ghat, “Subah-e-Banaras” welcomes dawn with Vedic chants, classical music, and yoga most mornings.

Where to stay (curated picks, bookable via our partners):

• BrijRama Palace (on Darbhanga Ghat; boutique heritage right on the river): Check availability at BrijRama Palace
• Taj Ganges, Varanasi (green oasis, excellent dining and service): See rooms at Taj Ganges, Varanasi
• Hotel Surya, Kaiser Palace (heritage feel, good value): View Hotel Surya, Kaiser Palace
• Zostel Varanasi (social hostel near Assi Ghat): Book Zostel Varanasi
• Stops Hostel Varanasi (budget-friendly, community vibe): See Stops Hostel Varanasi
• Browse more stays on VRBO: Varanasi vacation rentals on VRBO or hotels: Search Varanasi hotels

Getting there (typical options and times):

• Fly to Varanasi (VNS) from Delhi (~1h25) or Mumbai (~2h10). Typical one-way fares run ~$40–120. Compare options: Flights on Trip.com or Flights on Kiwi.com.
• Train from Delhi (overnight: ~10–12 hours, AC berths usually ₹1,200–2,500). Check schedules and book: Trains on Trip.com.
• Airport to the ghats takes ~45–60 minutes by car; arrange a hotel pickup or pre-book a transfer for a stress-free exit.

Day 1: Arrival, Ghats Walk, and the Evening Ganga Aarti

Afternoon: Arrive and check in. If you’re staying riverside, drop your bags and take a gentle orientation walk from Assi Ghat towards Dashashwamedh. Pause for a classic lassi at Blue Lassi Shop—thick, hand-whisked curd with seasonal fruits. Coffee drinkers can detour to Open Hand Café near Assi for espresso and a slice of carrot cake.

Evening: Experience the city’s most moving ritual with the Varanasi Evening Ganga Aarti Tour. You’ll float by boat to the ceremony, where priests perform synchronized fire offerings as conch shells sound and diyas glow across the river.

Night (Dinner): Taste eastern UP’s smoky comfort food at Baati Chokha (Sigra). Order a platter of ghee-brushed baati with chokha (roasted eggplant, tomato, potato), dal, and gur. If you prefer light bites, graze at Kashi Chaat Bhandar (crisp-tart tomato chaat, pani puri, palak chaat) and finish with Banarasi paan from a stall nearby. Expect ₹300–900 per person depending on where you dine.

Day 2: Sunrise Boat, Old City Lanes, and Sarnath

Morning: Before dawn, join the Varanasi Morning Walk and Boat Ride at Dawn. Watch the river blush pink as bathers descend the steps and priests chant at Subah‑e‑Banaras on Assi Ghat. Your guide will thread you through alleys perfumed with incense and woodsmoke.

After the boat, refuel at Ram Bhandar (Thatheri Bazaar). Order kachori-sabzi with jalebi for a classic Banarasi breakfast; if visiting Oct–Feb, ask for malaiyyo, a cloud-like saffron milk foam that appears only on cool mornings.

Afternoon: Head 10 km to Sarnath with the Sarnath Tour – Birthplace of Buddhism. Explore the Dhamek Stupa, the Ashoka Pillar site, and the museum’s sublime Gupta-era sculptures. The calm gardens and deer park offer a profound contrast to Varanasi’s intensity. Allow ~3–4 hours.

Late lunch back in the old city at Itihaas Alley Kitchen (tender mutton korma, veg thalis, fresh rotis) or Aum Café near Assi (wholesome vegetarian bowls, herbal teas). Budget ~₹350–800 per person.

Evening: Visit the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and its grand corridor near sunset (carry ID; phones/cameras are not permitted inside—use the lockers). After darshan, dine at Varuna in Taj Ganges for refined North Indian classics—slow-cooked dal, kebabs, and kulfi—or choose a casual rooftop like Mona Lisa Café near Dashashwamedh for wood-fired pizza and river breezes.

Day 3: Silk Weavers, BHU, and a Street Food Walk

Morning: Ease into the day with yoga at the ghats or a cappuccino at Open Hand Café. Then meet Banarasi sari artisans in Madanpura—ask your hotel to arrange a reputable handloom visit. You’ll learn about brocade, zari threads, and motifs like kalga and bel that adorn wedding saris; pieces range from simple stoles to heirloom saris.

Continue to the Banaras Hindu University (BHU) campus. Stroll broad, shaded avenues and visit Bharat Kala Bhavan to view sculptures, textiles, and miniature paintings—an elegant primer on the region’s art history.

Afternoon: Dive into flavors on a guided Culinary Adventure Food Walk in Varanasi. Typical bites include tamatar chaat, aloo tikki, kulhad chai, and thick lassi; your guide will help you choose clean, trusted stalls and decode what’s frying, simmering, and steaming in every corner.

Prefer a sit-down lunch? Try Deena Chat Bhandar for a focused chaat tour, or Pizzeria Vaatika Café at Assi Ghat for apple pie and river views.

Evening: Cap your trip with a slow boat ride at golden hour (if you didn’t on Day 1) or a final wander along the ghats. For dinner, The Great Kebab Factory (in the Radisson) serves a fixed menu of kebabs and North Indian mains with attentive service, while Ksheer Sagar near Godowlia is great for mithai to take home—think pedas and rabri. If you have a late flight, arrange a car to the airport and leave buffer time for traffic and security.

Local logistics and tips:

• Boats: Shared rowboats at sunrise typically cost ₹150–300 per person; private boats ₹800–1,500 depending on duration. Life jackets are increasingly standard—ask before boarding.
• Getting around: E‑rickshaws are ideal for short hops; cars can’t reach many lanes near the ghats. Wear closed shoes for uneven steps.
• Etiquette: No photos at cremation ghats (Manikarnika/Harishchandra). Dress shoulders/knees covered for temples. Keep footwear safe in designated racks.
• Shopping: For authentic handloom, ask for GI‑tagged Banarasi products and request a loom demonstration.

Optional curated experiences if you want a full guided day: the Full Day Varanasi Private Tour with Temples, Ghats & Rituals bundles a dawn boat, key temples, and old-city alleys with a local expert.

In three days, you’ve traced the Ganges from first light to flame-filled dusk, walked alleys older than memory, and tasted the city’s salty-sweet soul. Varanasi lingers—on your clothes as incense, in your ears as temple bells, and in your heart as a quiet, steady glow.