3 Days in Tbilisi: Sulfur Baths, Wine, and Caucasus Peaks
Tbilisi, Georgia’s lively capital, sits at the crossroads of empires and trade routes, and you feel that history on every corner—from Persian-style bathhouses to tsarist-era mansions and Art Nouveau facades. Founded in the 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the city still smells faintly of sulfur near Abanotubani, where hot springs have soothed travelers for centuries.
Expect a compact, walkable Old Town crowned by Narikala Fortress, a sleek ribbon of the Bridge of Peace over the Kura (Mtkvari) River, and cafés tucked into vine-draped courtyards. Food is a highlight: pillowy khinkali dumplings, molten Adjarian khachapuri, walnut-rich pkhali, and amber wines aged in clay qvevri—the world’s oldest continuous winemaking tradition.
Practical notes: The currency is the Georgian lari (GEL), and tap water is generally potable in Tbilisi. Dress modestly when entering churches, and book sulfur baths and the most popular restaurants ahead. Spring and fall bring mild weather and clear mountain views; winters are crisp but atmospheric.
Tbilisi
In Tbilisi, medieval lanes spill into grand 19th-century boulevards, and street art shares walls with carved wooden balconies. Start in the Old Town (Altstadt) for Metekhi Church, the cable car to Narikala, and views from the Mother of Georgia statue. Wander Rike Park, then browse the Dry Bridge Market for antiques and Soviet-era curios.
Food and drink standouts include family-run spots and inventive kitchens. Try Barbarestan (19th‑century Georgian recipes reimagined), Shavi Lomi/The Black Lion (seasonal, soulful plates), Keto and Kote (terrace views and classics), Salobie Bia (clay-pot beans and fresh mchadi), and Pasanauri (khinkali specialists). For wine, sample qvevri styles at 8000 Vintages or Vino Underground; for craft beer, head to 9Mta near Freedom Square.
- Where to stay: Browse stays on VRBO Tbilisi or Hotels.com Tbilisi.
- Editor’s picks: Design-forward Stamba Hotel (industrial-chic rooms, leafy courtyard); hip, budget-friendly Fabrika Hostel & Suites (creative hub with cafés and studios); elegant Rooms Hotel Tbilisi (mid-century style, in Vera).
- Getting to Tbilisi: Compare flights on Omio (flights to/from Europe), Trip.com (global flights), or Kiwi.com. Typical nonstops/short connects: Istanbul (~2 hrs), Dubai (~3.5 hrs), Warsaw/Vienna (4–5 hrs with a change). Taxis/ride-hails from TBS to the center take ~25–40 minutes depending on traffic.
Day 1: Old Tbilisi Arrival, Cable Car Views, Sulfur Bath Atmosphere
Morning: Travel day. If you haven’t booked yet, check fares via Omio, Trip.com, or Kiwi.com. Aim to land early afternoon so you can catch sunset over the Old Town.
Afternoon: Check into your hotel, then stretch your legs along Rike Park and ride the cable car to Narikala for a sweeping first look at the city. Walk down through the fortress walls to the sulfur-bath district (Abanotubani), admiring the mosaic-tiled Chreli Abano façade, then pause for coffee at Skola Coffee & Wine Bar on Rustaveli or Prospero’s Books & Caliban’s for a quiet courtyard pick‑me‑up.
Evening: Ease into Tbilisi with a sociable orientation stroll—an evening walk that pairs city stories with sips and river views:

Tbilisi: Evening Walking & Talking Tour with Wine & Boat Ride usually covers the Old Town highlights, a glass of Georgian wine, and a short boat ride for night-time skyline shots. Afterward, dine nearby: try Keto and Kote for balcony views and chicken shkmeruli (garlic-cream), or g.vino for small plates like badrijani nigvzit (walnut-stuffed eggplant) and a flight of amber qvevri wines. If you’re up for it, book a late sulfur-bath session—private rooms are best for first-timers.
Day 2: Kazbegi and the Georgian Military Road (Full-Day Excursion)

Highlights of Caucasus Mountains—Jinvali, Ananuri, Gudauri, Kazbegi (Group Tour) is a classic 10–12 hour adventure along the storied Georgian Military Road. Fuel up early at Coffee LAB (excellent roasts and hearty breakfast bowls) or Hurma Café, then set off to turquoise Jinvali Reservoir and the 17th‑century Ananuri Fortress. Climb to Gudauri’s panoramas and the Soviet‑era Friendship Monument—an eye‑popping mural and cinematic viewpoint.
Continue to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) for the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, perched at ~2,170 m with Mount Kazbek often peeking through clouds. Lunch en route might be at a local khinkali house in Pasanauri (pepper your dumplings and eat them by hand) or, time permitting, on the terrace of Rooms Kazbegi with mountain views. Pack layers; weather shifts fast in the highlands. You’ll roll back into Tbilisi after dark—book dinner late at Barbarestan to sample recipes revived from Barbare Jorjadze’s 19th‑century cookbook (look for chakapuli in spring, or slow-braised meats with tkemali).
Day 3: Tastings in Sololaki, Markets, and Departure
Morning: Start with a warm shotis puri (long, canoe-shaped bread) from a neighborhood tone bakery, then join a flavor-forward wander through Tbilisi’s bohemian heart:

Private Tbilisi Food Tour: 9 Tastings Walk in Bohemian District threads historic Sololaki and the Old Town with stops for churchkhela, sulguni, mtsvadi (grilled meats), and natural wines. It’s an edible crash course in Georgian terroir and traditions—ideal before you fly.
Afternoon: With a few final hours, browse the Dry Bridge Market for vintage enamelware and handmade jewelry, or swing by Fabrika’s courtyard for local designer boutiques and a casual bite. Prefer a sit-down lunch? Salobie Bia serves clay-pot lobio with pickles and cornmeal mchadi; Racha Tavern near Liberty Square is a no-frills favorite for chashushuli (beef stew) and khachapuri imeruli. Allow ~25–40 minutes to reach the airport depending on traffic; ride-hail is plentiful.
Evening: Departure day—no formal plans. If you have a late flight, squeeze in the funicular to Mtatsminda Park for a final city panorama and a cone of pelamushi (grape pudding) ice cream, or step into Sameba (Holy Trinity) Cathedral to admire its scale and iconography before you go.
More Tbilisi tips and ideas for extra time:
- Chronicle of Georgia: Colossal hilltop monument with reliefs telling Georgia’s story; great photo stop near Tbilisi Sea.
- Dezerter Bazaar: A sensory plunge into spices, churchkhela, cheeses, and pickles—chat with vendors for tastes.
- Wine bars to note: 8000 Vintages (broad selection), Vino Underground (cellar ambiance), DADI Wine Bar (modern pours).
- Coffee breaks: Hurma (laid-back brunch), Shavi Coffee Roasters (specialty beans), Puri Guliani (pastries).
Wherever you stay, you can compare and book quickly on Hotels.com or VRBO, with standout stays at Stamba Hotel, Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, and Fabrika Hostel & Suites.
In three days, you’ll taste the best of Tbilisi—amber wines, market bites, and steamy bathhouses—then stand eye‑level with the Caucasus. This itinerary balances landmark sights with neighborhood gems so you leave with stories, not just photos. Safe travels—gaumarjos to your Georgian adventure!

