3 Days in Serra da Estrela: A Mountain Escape of Glacial Valleys, Cheese, and Starry Skies

Base yourself in Manteigas to explore Portugal’s highest mountains, crystalline lakes, and artisan traditions—think glacial hikes, wool mills, and the creamiest Queijo Serra da Estrela.

Serra da Estrela is mainland Portugal’s highest mountain range, crowned by Torre (1,993 m) and carved by Ice Age glaciers into valleys, cirques, and high plateaus. The park’s villages still hum with shepherd traditions, artisan wool, and the storied Queijo Serra da Estrela cheese, coagulated with wild thistle instead of animal rennet.

Expect big-sky vistas, crystalline lagoons like Lagoa Comprida, and forests that glow amber in autumn. In winter, roads can close for snow and ice—come prepared with layers, waterproofs, and flexible plans. Spring through fall is ideal for hiking and scenic drives; summer adds swimmable river beaches in places like Loriga.

Cuisine here is hearty and regional: slow-cooked lamb, “feijoca” mountain beans, rye bread, and silky cheese you spoon from the rind. You’ll also meet the Cão da Serra da Estrela, the local guardian dog, and discover a textile legacy that runs from shepherd to loom. This 3-day itinerary bases you in Manteigas, the heart of the Zêzere Glacier Valley, with easy day trips to the park’s highlights.

Manteigas

Tucked into the Zêzere Glacier Valley, Manteigas makes a perfect base: close to waterfalls like Poço do Inferno, near the scenic N338 to Torre, and minutes from Penhas Douradas’ alpine plateaus. The village blends mountain life with design-forward stays and the revived wool craft of the Burel Factory.

  • Top sights: Zêzere Glacier Valley scenic road, Poço do Inferno waterfall, Covão d’Ametade meadow, Torre summit, Lagoa Comprida, trail to Covão dos Conchos spillway.
  • Culture & craft: Burel Factory tour (see traditional looms and modern design), mountain wool heritage throughout the valley.
  • Food & drink: Try feijocas à Manteigas (local mountain beans), lamb stews, rye bread, and Queijo Serra da Estrela PDO.

Where to stay: Browse stays in Manteigas on VRBO or compare hotels on Hotels.com. If you’d rather base in a larger gateway town, check Covilhã or Seia as alternatives (both with straightforward road access into the park).

Getting there: Fly into Lisbon or Porto and take a train to Covilhã (about 3.5–4.5 hours; ~€15–25 from Lisbon). Check options on Omio (flights) and Omio (trains in Europe). From Covilhã, it’s ~45 minutes by road to Manteigas via the scenic N339; regional buses run (schedules vary—see Omio (buses)), or take a taxi (roughly €30–45 depending on time and season). A rental car gives you the most flexibility for mountain viewpoints and trailheads.

Day 1 — Arrival to the Glacier Valley

Morning: Travel toward the mountains. If arriving from abroad, book a flight into Lisbon or Porto using Omio, then connect by train to Covilhã via Omio (3.5–4.5 hours from Lisbon Santa Apolónia; seats and prices vary). Aim to be in Manteigas by early afternoon.

Afternoon: Check into your Manteigas stay and ease into altitude. Drive or stroll to the Burel Factory for a guided tour through carded fleece, looms, and contemporary design—an engaging crash course in Serra da Estrela’s wool DNA (tours typically 45–60 minutes; book ahead in high season). Afterwards, take the short, scenic drive to Poço do Inferno, a photogenic waterfall a few minutes’ walk from the road; if time allows, add a section of PR1 (Poço do Inferno) for mossy woods and granite outcrops.

Evening: Dinner at Restaurante Berne in Manteigas, known for regional comfort food—order feijocas à Manteigas (slow-cooked mountain beans with pork and sausage) or roasted kid goat when available, paired with Dão or Beira Interior wines. If you prefer a lighter bite, ask for grilled river trout and seasonal greens. Turn in early; tomorrow is your big mountain day.

Day 2 — Torre, Lagoa Comprida, and the High Plateau

Morning: After breakfast, drive the Zêzere Glacier Valley toward Covão d’Ametade (about 30 minutes from Manteigas). This meadow—ringed by black pines beneath granite cliffs—is a classic place to wander along the Zêzere’s young stream and snap those moody mountain photos. Continue up the N338 to Torre, mainland Portugal’s highest point; on clear days you’ll scan ranges into Spain. In winter, check road status before you go—closures for snow/ice are common, and chains may be required.

Afternoon: Descend to Lagoa Comprida (15–20 minutes), the park’s largest glacial lake-dam. Choose your adventure: a relaxed lakeside walk and viewpoints, or the more ambitious hike to Covão dos Conchos—the viral “sinkhole” is a bell-mouth spillway reached by a roughly 9–10 km round-trip hike over undulating granite (plan 3–4 hours; bring water, sun or wind layers). Wildlife spotters should watch for golden eagles and scampering rock lizards on warm stones.

Evening: Book dinner at LOOM, the panoramic restaurant at Casa de São Lourenço (Burel Mountain Hotels), where seasonal, locally sourced menus reimagine mountain flavors—think cardoon-thickened sauces, charred brassicas, and lamb from nearby pastures. Not into a tasting menu? The sister property, Casa das Penhas Douradas, offers refined but relaxed dishes with a fireplace ambiance; reserve ahead at either spot, especially weekends. Cap the night with stargazing—light pollution is minimal on the plateau, and on moonless nights the Milky Way hums overhead.

Day 3 — Bread, Cheese, and Departure

Morning: Drive to Seia (45–60 minutes) for the excellent Museu do Pão (Bread Museum). Start with coffee and warm slices at the museum café, then tour exhibits on milling, baking, and rye traditions—an engaging hour that ends, inevitably, at the shop for loaves and pastries to take home (adult tickets typically ~€6–8). If you’d rather keep it alpine, swap Seia for a short forest walk near Penhas Douradas on the beech-lined Rota das Faias (especially beautiful in October–November).

Afternoon: Lunch in Seia at the museum’s restaurant for rustic soups and grilled meats, or head back toward Manteigas for a simple tavern meal before departure. If time allows en route out of the region, drop by Covilhã’s Museu de Lanifícios (Wool Museum, ~€3–5; housed in 18th–19th-century mill buildings) to round out the wool story from field to factory to fashion. Trains from Covilhã back to Lisbon or Porto can be searched and booked via Omio (trains); buses across the region appear on Omio (buses) as well. If you’re flying onward, check fares and timings on Omio (flights).

Evening: If you have one last night, keep dinner easy and local back in Manteigas—ask for truta da montanha (mountain trout) or a tasting of Queijo Serra da Estrela with rye bread and quince paste. For a nightcap, sip a Beira Interior red on your balcony as the valley darkens and the river hums below.

Insider tips: Weather changes quickly—pack layers, sun protection, and a waterproof. In winter, check daily road updates; certain segments to Torre and Lagoa Comprida can close. For hikes like Covão dos Conchos, start early, bring snacks, and expect uneven granite underfoot. When buying Serra da Estrela cheese, look for the DOP seal and ask its maturation date; young wheels are almost spoonable, while older ones slice cleanly.

Where to book your stay (quick links): Manteigas on VRBO or Hotels.com. Alt bases: Covilhã or Seia.

This 3-day Serra da Estrela itinerary balances alpine drama with artisan culture—from glaciers and lagoons to looms and legendary cheese. Base in Manteigas, savor the high plateau, and leave with bread crumbs in your pocket and mountain light in your photos.

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