3 Days in Pachmarhi: A Satpura Hills Itinerary for Waterfalls, Caves, and Dhoopgarh Sunsets
Perched at 1,067 meters in the Satpura Range, Pachmarhi (often spelled Panchmarhi/Panchmari) blends jungle romance with Raj-era history. Discovered for the British by Captain James Forsyth in 1857, this hill station still wears its colonial bungalows and churches like quiet badges under sal forests and chirping cicadas.
Nature is the headline act. Think limestone caves sacred to Shiva, cascades like Bee Falls and Rajat Prapat (the “Silver Fall”), and Dhoopgarh—the highest point in Madhya Pradesh—where the sky stages slow-burn sunsets above rippling ridgelines. Trails range from family-friendly strolls to thigh-testing climbs up Chauragarh’s stone steps lined with tridents.
Practical notes: Many viewpoints and waterfalls lie inside a protected forest; as of 2025 you’ll need an entry permit and a licensed gypsy (open-top jeep) with guide for designated circuits. October–March offers the best weather; June–September is lush but slippery. Expect hearty MP flavors—poha-jalebi for breakfast, bhutte ka kees, sabudana khichdi—plus reliable meals at heritage hotels.
Pachmarhi
Pachmarhi’s compact bazaar, old churches, and British bungalows are ringed by teak and sal forests that hide sacred grottoes and cool pools. The air smells of pine and damp rock; langurs chatter in the trees; and the skyline breaks into giant amphitheaters like Reechhgarh and cliffy viewpoints such as Handi Khoh.
Top sights you’ll cover in three days include Dhoopgarh (sunset), Bee Falls and Apsara Vihar (swim-friendly pool), Jata Shankar Cave temple, Pandav Caves, Priyadarshini/Forsyth Point, Reechhgarh, Mahadeo–Gupt Mahadev caves, and, if you’re up for it, the Chauragarh temple climb.
- Where to stay: Browse stays in town and around Civil Lines/market for easy access to the forest gate. Search options on Hotels.com or check cottage-style stays on VRBO.
- Reliable picks (as of 2025): WelcomHeritage Golf View (heritage lawns and barbecue dinners), MPT Rock-End Manor (colonial manor with sunset-facing lawn), MPT Highlands (central, good for families). These in-house restaurants are also among the best dining bets in town.
- Permits and gypsies: Obtain your forest entry pass at the counter near Bison Lodge. Expect approx INR 150–300 per person for entry/camera fees and INR 1,800–2,800 per gypsy per circuit (4–6 hours), guide included; prices vary by route and season. Carry cash; cards/network can be patchy.
- Getting there: Nearest railhead is Pipariya (about 50–55 km; 1.5–2 hours by taxi, ~INR 1,200–1,800). Nearest airports: Bhopal (BHO, ~200 km; 5–6 hours by road) and Jabalpur (JLR, ~240 km). Compare flights on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. For trains to Pipariya, see Trip.com Trains.
Day 1: Arrival, Bison Lodge, and Dhoopgarh Sunset
Morning: Travel toward Pachmarhi. Sample route examples: Delhi or Mumbai to Bhopal by flight (about 1.5 hours; typically USD 40–100 one-way on domestic carriers via Trip.com Flights), then train to Pipariya (2.5–3 hours; INR 150–600 on Trip.com Trains). Hire a taxi from Pipariya to Pachmarhi (1.5–2 hours).
Afternoon: Check in and have a relaxed lunch at your hotel restaurant—heritage properties here do dependable North Indian and MP staples. Then visit the compact Bison Lodge Museum (natural history displays and a primer on Satpura geology) and stroll to nearby Christ Church (1875) for stained glass and whispery deodars.
Evening: Book a forest circuit to Dhoopgarh for sunset. It’s roughly 45–60 minutes by gypsy from town plus a short walk to the ridge; arrive an hour early to watch the light change over Satpura’s waves. Post-sunset dinner ideas: a barbecue-style spread on the lawn at WelcomHeritage Golf View (ask for tandoori platters and dal bukhara) or a classic thali/Indian Chinese combo at the MPT Highlands restaurant. Wrap up with hot gulab jamun and ginger chai back in the market.
Day 2: Waterfalls and Caves Circuit (Bee Falls, Apsara Vihar, Rajat Prapat, Jata Shankar)
Morning: Early breakfast—ask your hotel for poha with fresh jalebi and masala chai. Head to the forest gate to arrange the “waterfalls and caves” route. Start at Jata Shankar Cave, a cool limestone grotto-temple with a short, rocky approach; carry a small torch and mind the low ceiling. Continue to Handi Khoh for a vertiginous, 300-foot gorge view draped in green.
Afternoon: Move to Bee Falls (Jamuna Prapat). Descend the stone steps to the plunge pool for a bracing dip; water shoes help on slick rock. A 20–30 minute forest walk upstream reaches Apsara Vihar, a gentler pool with sandbanks; from here, a further trail leads to the Rajat Prapat (Silver Fall) viewpoint—best after monsoon through winter. For lunch, choose a simple forest-side break: your hotel can pack parathas and fruit, or grab hot pakoras, Maggi, and tea at the seasonal canteen near Bee Falls.
Evening: On the return, stop by the Pandav Caves (neat rock shelters with a tidy garden) and Priyadarshini/Forsyth Point, where Pachmarhi’s discovery story is etched into the view. Back in town, browse the market for mahua honey and herbal oils. Dinner: try the dining hall at MPT Rock-End Manor—order mutton rogan josh, tandoori rotis, and kadhai paneer; vegetarians can add a local-style bhutte ka kees on request. End with saffron kulfi or a warm kheer.
Day 3: Chauragarh Steps, Mahadeo–Gupt Mahadev, and Departure
Morning: Pre-dawn start if you’re fit: the Chauragarh trek climbs roughly 3–4 km of steps (allow 2–3 hours up). The temple at the top is strewn with trishuls and offers a sweeping Satpura panorama—carry 2 liters of water, a cap, and light snacks. If you prefer a gentler plan, visit Bada Mahadev and Gupt Mahadev caves instead; Gupt Mahadev is a narrow, single-file squeeze—keep backpacks small.
Afternoon: Brunch back at your hotel—think stuffed parathas, curd, and filter coffee—then pack up. If time permits before your afternoon departure, detour to Reechhgarh, a natural rock amphitheater with wind-carved passages, great for photographs. Transfer to Pipariya for your train or drive to Bhopal/Jabalpur for flights. Compare timings and fares on Trip.com Trains and Trip.com Flights, or price-check on Kiwi.com.
Evening: If you’re staying late, choose a final early dinner: the veranda at Satpura Retreat (ask for a homestyle thali with seasonal sabzi), or a North Indian spread at your hotel’s garden—paneer tikka, jeera rice, dal tadka. Pick up last-minute snacks in the market (til-patti, namkeen) for the journey.
- Coffee and breakfast stops: Your hotel’s breakfast is the most reliable; otherwise, hunt the main market in the early morning for fresh poha-jalebi and adrak chai at longstanding stalls. Ask your driver or guide for the day’s best cart—it’s how locals do it.
- What to pack: Grippy walking shoes, a light sweater (nights can be crisp November–February), quick-dry towel for waterfall dips, small torch for caves, and cash for permits and snacks.
- Responsible travel: Respect temple dress codes, avoid plastics inside the reserve, and swim only where locals/guards advise—it’s a wild landscape, not a manicured park.
Where to book stays: Compare hotels and heritage bungalows on Hotels.com. Prefer a cottage or villa vibe? Browse private stays on VRBO.
Three days in Pachmarhi gives you the essentials: a sky-splitting sunset at Dhoopgarh, cool swims below Bee Falls, cave-temple lore, and forest breezes scented with resin. It’s a compact, memory-rich hill escape that feels both contemplative and adventurous—easy to reach, hard to forget.
