Madeira is a subtropical Portuguese archipelago set adrift in the Atlantic, famed for cloud-brushing peaks, terraced vineyards, and the UNESCO-listed Laurisilva laurel forest. Settled in the 15th century, it grew rich on sugar and fortified wine; the island’s capital, Funchal, still hums with the legacy of merchants, explorers, and gardeners who tamed these volcanic slopes.

Today, travelers come for levada hikes along old irrigation channels, black-sand coves, and cliffside viewpoints that make your heart skip. You’ll find flavors you won’t forget: smoky espetada (laurel-spiked beef skewers), bolo do caco slathered in garlic butter, and the island’s bracing citrus-honey “poncha.” Dolphin and whale watching is a near-daily possibility off the south coast.

Expect hills, microclimates, and views at every turn—pack layers and good shoes. Book popular experiences (Monte toboggan, jeep tours, sunset cruises) in advance. Card payments are widely accepted, buses are reliable if unhurried, and taxis/ride-hailing make short hops easy on steeper streets.

Funchal

Funchal is your perfect base: a palm-lined harbor, tiled boulevards, and steep lanes leading to botanic gardens and the hilltop parish of Monte. Cable cars glide overhead, wicker toboggans swoop down historic streets, and street art brightens the Old Town’s painted doors.

Top sights include the Sé Cathedral’s carved ceiling, the Mercado dos Lavradores (colorful produce and a lively fish hall), and the 16th-century São Tiago Fort. Sip a flight at Blandy’s Wine Lodge, then wander Santa Catarina Park for postcard views across the bay.

• Where to stay: Browse stays via Hotels.com (Funchal) or VRBO (Funchal). For specific picks: oceanfront heritage at Belmond Reid's Palace (gardens, afternoon tea); stylish mid-range at Porto Mare Hotel (pools and spa in the Lido); value-classic downtown at Hotel do Carmo (retro 60s flair, rooftop pool).
• How to get there: Fly into Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport (FNC). From Lisbon it’s ~1h45–2h, often €40–120 one-way depending on season; from Porto ~2h; from major European hubs ~3–4h. Search flights in Europe with Omio (flights). If you’re coming from outside Europe, compare global fares on Kiwi.com. Airport to center: 20–25 minutes by taxi/ride-hail (~€20–30) or ~45 minutes by local bus (SAM lines; ~€5).

Food to try: Black scabbardfish with banana (espada com banana), lapas (limpets) sizzling with garlic and butter, bolo do caco bread, espetada on laurel skewers, and a glass of Madeira wine (try a semi-dry Verdelho).

Day 1: Old Town Flavor, Cable Car Views, and Poncha at Sunset

Morning: Travel day. If you arrive early, shake off the flight with espresso and pasteis at Café Apolo on Praça do Município—old-school waiters, great people-watching. For a lighter, modern brunch, Prima Caju serves açai bowls, ricotta pancakes, and specialty coffee a short walk from the marina.

Afternoon: Drop bags and wander the Mercado dos Lavradores: upstairs is a riot of tropical fruit; downstairs watch the thrumming espada (scabbardfish) counter. Continue into Zona Velha along Rua de Santa Maria to admire the painted doors. Visit the São Tiago Fort ramparts for harbor views, then pause at Fábrica Santo António (since 1893) for bolo de mel (spiced molasses cake) and buttery cookies to take home.

Evening: Book dinner at Armazém do Sal (former salt warehouse; order octopus with sweet potato and a Madeira wine pairing) or seafood-driven Akua by Chef Júlio Pereira (ceviche, charcoal-grilled catch of the day). For a sunset drink, stroll to Barreirinha Bar Café above the lido platform—spritzes, local Coral beer, and a peachy horizon. Nightcap? Try classic poncha (rum, honey, citrus) at Venda Velha in Old Town; start with the traditional lemon-honey, then passion fruit.

Day 2: West Island Adventure — Cliffs, Forests, and Natural Pools

Devote a full day to the island’s wild west: terraced vines, lava-ringed pools, and the mossy, dreamlike Fanal forest. A small-group 4x4 gets you onto narrow backroads and hidden miradouros without the driving stress.

Book: Madeira West - Enchanted Terraces & Fanal Unesco open top jeep (local guides, scenic stops at Cabo Girão, Seixal, Fanal, and Porto Moniz; hotel pickup; typically 9am–5pm).

• Highlights: Step out on the glass-floored Cabo Girão Skywalk (one of Europe’s highest sea cliffs, small entry fee). Breathe the mist in Fanal Forest, a primeval laurel grove where gnarled trees silhouette against rolling fog. Swim (season allowing) in the Porto Moniz natural pools where Atlantic swell surges through lava basins. Quick photo stop at the Véu da Noiva waterfall.
• Lunch ideas en route: In Porto Moniz, Restaurante Orca overlooks the pools (grilled limpets, espada fillet), while Cachalote serves hearty espetada and bolo do caco. If your guide offers a poncha stop in Câmara de Lobos, don’t miss Rei da Poncha for a proper fisherman’s version.

Optional evening add-on: If you’ve still got energy, catch golden hour on the water with a relaxed cruise.

Book: Catamaran Sunset Cruise from Funchal (chance of dolphins, calm seas at dusk; bring a light jacket).

Post-cruise dinner near the marina: Gavião Novo for whole grilled pargo or a simple Taberna Ruel table in the Old Town for espetada, milho frito (fried cornmeal), and a Douro red.

Day 3: Monte Cable Car, Tropical Garden, and Toboggan — Then Departure

Morning: Ride the waterfront Teleférico do Funchal up to Monte for sweeping views (allow ~15–20 min). Pop into the whitewashed Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte (resting place of the last Habsburg emperor, Charles I). Then wander the Monte Palace Tropical Garden with koi lakes, azulejo panels, and a compelling African sculpture collection.

Book (skip-the-line combo): Tour Cable Car Toboggan and Tropical Garden (bundles cable car, toboggan, and garden visit for a smooth morning).

Afternoon: Do the iconic toboggan ride down to Livramento—wicker sleds steered by white-suited carreiros, a tradition since the 1800s (about 10–15 minutes; budget ~€27–30 per person). Taxi or bus takes you back to the center in a few minutes. Grab a final lunch at O Tasco (small, beloved; book if you can—garlic prawns, tuna steak with milho) or head uphill to Restaurante Santo António in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos for textbook espetada grilled over laurel wood.

Evening: Departure day assumes an afternoon flight. If time permits, toast your trip with an espresso and pastel de nata at the classic The Ritz Madeira on Avenida Arriaga, or a quick tasting at Blandy’s Wine Lodge—ask for a 10-year Verdelho or Bual to compare styles. Taxi to FNC (20–25 min) and check in early; coastal winds can occasionally cause delays, so give yourself a buffer.

Extra Ideas If You Have More Time

• Short levada sampler: Try a bite-sized levada like Levada dos Tornos (Monte stretch) with viewpoints over Funchal—go with a guide if rain is forecast; trails can be narrow and slick.
• CR7 Museum: Football fans can swing by the CR7 statue and museum by the marina before dinner.
• Pico do Arieiro sunrise: Early birds can swap Day 3’s plan for a high-alpine dawn. Book the Madeira Pico do Arieiro Sunrise Tour to watch the sun lift over a sea of clouds, then return by late morning.

Local dining cheat sheet:

• Brunch/Coffee: Prima Caju (healthy bowls and specialty coffee), Café Apolo (historic café culture), The Ritz Madeira (grand terrace and pastries).
• Lunch: O Tasco (Madeiran staples; small plates), Taberna Ruel (Old Town comfort), Gavíão Novo (grilled fish, close to the sea).
• Dinner: Armazém do Sal (creative Madeiran cuisine in a former salt warehouse), Akua (seafood modernized), William at Reid’s Palace (fine-dining tasting menu, book ahead), or Kampo by Júlio Pereira (fire-licked meats with local sides).
• Drinks: Venda Velha (classic poncha), Barreirinha Bar Café (sunset terrace), Nini Design Centre lounge (cocktails with harbor panorama).

Madeira rewards curiosity: turn a corner and a viewpoint appears; order the “special” and discover a new favorite. In three focused days based in Funchal, you’ve ridden a mountaintop cable car, tasted the island’s cuisine, ventured into UNESCO forest, and watched the sun sink into the Atlantic.

Return for a longer stay to hike a full levada, explore the northeast’s triangular Santana houses, and linger over more Madeira wine. Until then—até já.