3 Days in Kraków with a Day Trip to Auschwitz-Birkenau: A Respectful, Budget-Friendly Family Itinerary
Kraków, once the royal capital of Poland, blends Gothic spires, Renaissance courtyards, and cobbled squares with an easy, street-level warmth. Its Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) hums with buskers and the hourly bugle call from St. Mary’s Basilica, while the Vistula riverfront offers gentle strolls perfect for families on a budget.
About 1.5–2 hours away lies the Memorial and Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau, the most solemn stop you’ll make. Visiting requires advance-timed tickets and thoughtful preparation; the museum recommends visitors be 14+ due to the sensitive content. It’s a day for quiet reflection—plan a calm evening afterward.
Practical notes: Kraków is walkable, trams are frequent and affordable, and hearty Polish classics—pierogi, soups, and cutlets—are easy on the wallet. Many top sights have free or low-cost areas (castle courtyards, parks, river paths), helping you keep costs near rock-bottom while traveling responsibly.
Kraków
Medieval Old Town, the royal Wawel Hill, and the Jewish Quarter of Kazimierz anchor most visits. Highlights include the Cloth Hall with local crafts, the underground museum beneath the Main Square, Schindler’s Factory Museum, and riverside paths where kids can run and you can nibble a warm obwarzanek (Kraków’s signature pretzel).
Fun to know: the Wawel Dragon “breathes fire” outside its cave; listen for the hejnał bugle call from St. Mary’s each hour; and Kazimierz has become a creative hub with street art, vintage shops, and excellent coffee.
- Where to stay (budget-friendly): Look in Old Town or Kazimierz for short walks and cheap eats. Consistently affordable picks include Atlantis Hostel (simple, central), Greg & Tom (social but organized), Ibis Budget Kraków Stare Miasto (clean basics), and Hotel Wyspiański (no-frills near the Planty). Compare deals on Hotels.com Kraków or browse apartments on VRBO Kraków.
- Getting there: Fly into Kraków (KRK) or train in from European hubs. Search flights (to/from Europe) on Omio Flights or, if you’re coming from outside Europe, compare on Kiwi.com. For trains and buses in Europe, use Omio Trains and Omio Buses. Examples: Warsaw–Kraków train ~2.5–3h (~$20–40); Vienna–Kraków ~6–7h by train/bus (~$30–60); Prague–Kraków ~7–8h (~$30–60).
- Local transport: Airport train to city ~20 min (~$4–5). 24-hour tram/bus tickets cost roughly $5–7. Walk as much as possible to save.
Day 1: Arrival, Old Town First Impressions, and Comfort-Food Classics
Morning: Travel to Kraków. If arriving early, drop bags and recharge with budget-friendly coffee and eggs at Wesoła Cafe (great value breakfasts, house-roasted beans) or Massolit Bakery & Cafe (affordable bagels, babka, and filter coffee). Stroll the tree-lined Planty, the park encircling Old Town on the old city walls.
Afternoon: Start in the Main Market Square for the bugle call from St. Mary’s Basilica (listen from outside for free). Pop into the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) to browse inexpensive crafts and amber trinkets. The Rynek Underground museum beneath the square adds kid-friendly interactive exhibits about medieval Kraków; time-slot tickets are inexpensive—consider this especially if traveling with younger kids.
Evening: Keep dinner hearty and cheap at a classic milk bar. Try Milkbar Tomasza (pierogi ruskie, pancakes, soups), Gospoda Koko (big portions, low prices—schnitzel, tomato soup), or U Babci Maliny (home-style Polish in a quirky cellar). For dessert, grab a Good Lood ice cream scoop (seasonal flavors under the castle) and stroll the Vistula Boulevards at sunset.
Day 2: Auschwitz I and Birkenau (Oświęcim) — A Full-Day Visit
Morning: This is a solemn, time-intensive day. Pre-book timed entry for the Memorial and Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau (Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau). The museum recommends visitors be 14+; consider alternatives for younger children. From Kraków Główny, take a train to Oświęcim (~1h40m; ~$4–6) or a bus from MDA station (~1.5–2h; ~$5–7). Compare departures on Omio Trains and Omio Buses. Bring water, snacks, and carry only a small bag (security size limits apply).
Afternoon: Most guided tours run ~3.5 hours and include both sites, with a free shuttle between Auschwitz I and Birkenau. Self-guided entry is possible at specific times (free, but advance reservations required); guided options provide crucial historical context and are relatively low-cost. Walk Birkenau’s grounds—the gatehouse, ramp, barracks remains—and take time afterward for quiet reflection.
Evening: Return to Kraków. Keep the evening gentle. If you’re hungry, go light and inexpensive: Przystanek Pierogarnia (small, excellent pierogi), Plac Nowy zapiekanki in Kazimierz (share a long toasted baguette—try the classic mushroom-cheese from Endzior), or Bagelmama (budget bagels and soups). A calm night walk along the river or Planty is a good way to decompress.
Family note: If traveling with children under 14, consider one adult visiting the memorial while the other spends the day in Kraków with kid-friendly picks such as the Wawel Dragon’s Den (Smocza Jama) and castle grounds, a hands-on hour at Rynek Underground, or playground time on the Vistula Boulevards.
Day 3: Kazimierz, Schindler’s Factory, and Departure
Morning: Breakfast in Kazimierz at Karma Coffee (excellent value batch brew, pastries) or Cheder (Middle Eastern flavors, warm atmosphere). Explore Kazimierz: the Old Synagogue exterior, street art-laced lanes, vintage shops. Head toward Zabłocie for the Schindler’s Factory Museum (WWII-era Kraków). Tickets are affordably priced; some Mondays have free entry with limited passes—check ahead.
Afternoon: Quick, cheap lunch before you go: Kuchnia u Doroty (roasts, soups, daily specials), or Bar Mleczny Górnik (classic milk bar plates for a few dollars). If time remains, walk Wawel Hill: the courtyard is free, the cathedral is partly free to enter, and the river views cost nothing. Depart Kraków in the afternoon.
Evening (if you have a late departure): Squeeze in one last bite—try a warm obwarzanek from a blue street cart (about $1) or share a plate of placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes) at Gospoda Koko. For onward travel, compare options on Omio Trains, Omio Buses, and Omio Flights; if you’re flying intercontinentally outside Europe, check Kiwi.com.
Cost-Saving Quick Tips:
- Walk whenever possible; a 24-hour transit pass is still very cheap if you need trams.
- Eat at milk bars (bar mleczny): expect $4–7 mains, $1–3 soups. Pierogi typically $5–8.
- Many sights have free zones: Wawel courtyards, Planty, river boulevards, and Old Town churches (for short, quiet visits).
- Book Auschwitz-Birkenau entry early; consider a museum guide for context while keeping costs moderate.
In three thoughtful days, you’ll savor Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz, pay respects at Auschwitz I and Birkenau, and keep spending minimal with smart eating and transit choices. The city’s walkability, inexpensive comfort food, and green spaces make it ideal for a family-friendly, low-budget journey. Safe travels.