3 Days in Kanazawa: Garden Grace, Geisha Lanes, and Seafood Markets
Kanazawa pairs old-world poise with modern creativity. Once the seat of the powerful Maeda clan, this compact city escaped wartime damage, preserving samurai lanes, geisha teahouses, and one of Japan’s “Three Great Gardens,” the exquisite Kenrokuen. Today, its leafy canals, craft studios, and bold contemporary art make it a favorite for culture lovers.
Food here is serious business. The Sea of Japan delivers pristine winter crab, sweet shrimp, and buttery yellowtail to Omicho Market, while local specialties like Kanazawa curry, Jibuni (duck stew), and delicate wagashi sweets reveal a refined palate. Spend your days between sushi counters and tea houses, then sip Ishikawa sake after dark.
Practical notes: the Kanazawa Loop Bus 1-Day Pass (~¥800) is handy for major sights. Many museums close Mondays; check hours around national holidays. While Ishikawa felt the 2024 Noto quake, Kanazawa’s core sights operate normally as of 2025—always verify temporary changes locally.
Kanazawa
Kanazawa delivers a best-of-Japan sampler: a legendary stroll garden, a gleaming castle, preserved geisha quarters, samurai townhouses, and cutting-edge art in one walkable city. Its station’s Tsuzumi-mon Gate—shaped like a traditional drum—sets the tone: heritage with a modern twist.
- Top sights: Kenrokuen Garden, Kanazawa Castle & Gyokusen’inmaru Garden, Higashi Chaya District (Shima/Kaikaro teahouses), Nagamachi Samurai District (Nomura-ke), 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, D.T. Suzuki Museum, Oyama Shrine, Myoryu-ji “Ninja Temple.”
- Signature experiences: Gold leaf workshop, tea ceremony near Kenrokuen, sake tasting at a historic brewer, seasonal garden illuminations, conveyor-belt sushi that’s actually excellent.
- Where to stay: Near Kanazawa Station for transit ease, Korinbo/Katamachi for shopping/nightlife, or Higashiyama for atmospheric lanes.
Getting to Kanazawa:
- Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo: Kagayaki service to Kanazawa typically 2.5–3 hours; reserved seat ~¥14,000–¥15,500 (about $95–$110). Search timetables and fares on Trip.com (trains).
- Flights to Komatsu (KMQ): From Tokyo Haneda ~1 hr; airport bus to Kanazawa Station ~40 min (~¥1,300). Compare prices on Trip.com (flights) or Kiwi.com.
- Local transport: Kanazawa Loop Bus and Kenrokuen Shuttle cover the main sights; a 1-day pass is great value. Taxis are plentiful around the station and Korinbo.
Where to book stays: Browse apartments and townhouses near Higashiyama or station-area hotels on VRBO and compare hotels on Hotels.com. For atmospheric stays, look for machiya townhouses in Higashiyama; for convenience, consider properties by Kanazawa Station or Korinbo.
Day 1: Arrival, Market Bites, and Samurai Streets
Morning: Travel to Kanazawa. If departing Tokyo, grab a regional-ekiben lunchbox at the station and settle into the Hokuriku Shinkansen—watch the Alps roll by. Flying? Land at Komatsu, then hop the airport bus to Kanazawa Station; step under the elegant Tsuzumi-mon Gate for your first photo.
Afternoon: Drop bags and head to Omicho Market for a late seafood lunch. Try Morimori Sushi (Omicho branch) for superb conveyor-belt sushi, Omicho Kaisendon-ya Hikaru for overflowing kaisendon, or Iki-iki-tei for grilled scallops and oysters. Coffee pick-me-up at Curio Espresso & Vintage Design (single-origin espresso; Aussie-style flat whites).
Evening: Stroll to Oyama Shrine (stained-glass gate), then amble through the Nagamachi Samurai District—mud walls, narrow lanes, canals. Tour Nomura-ke for a jewel-box garden and fine tansu chests. Dinner: book Itaru Honten (seasonal sashimi, grilled nodoguro) or Fuwari (creative small plates highlighting local veg and seafood). Nightcap at Oriental Brewing Korinbo (yuzu ales, IPA) or try gold-leaf soft-serve at Hakuichi for a gleaming dessert.
Day 2: Kenrokuen, Contemporary Art, and Geisha Lanes
Morning: Beat the crowds at Kenrokuen Garden; arrive at opening to see mist lift over stone lanterns and koi ponds. Cross to Kanazawa Castle and the sculpted Gyokusen’inmaru Garden. Pause for a tea ceremony near the garden—Gyokusen-en offers matcha with a view of a private landscape. Breakfast/coffee: HUM&Go# (Korimbo) for pour-over and toasts or grab a seasonal pastry at Le Musée de H KENROKUEN.
Afternoon: Explore the playful 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (don’t miss the circular glass pavilion). Walk to the serene D.T. Suzuki Museum—its water-mirror courtyard invites stillness. Light lunch at Fumuroya Café (delicate fu—wheat gluten—bowls, yuba), or slurp a warming bowl at Menya Taiga (rich tonkotsu ramen, local favorite).
Evening: Wander the lantern-lit Higashi Chaya District. Visit Shima Teahouse (museum of geisha culture) and, if open during your dates, peek into Kaikaro. Try a gold leaf workshop at Hakuichi or Sakuda to decorate chopsticks or a small dish (about 60–90 min; ~¥1,000–¥2,000). Dinner: Sushi Ippei (reservations recommended) or Maimon Sushi (upscale kaiten with top-notch neta). Finish with a sake flight at Fukumitsuya Kanazawa—taste junmai and seasonal brews, and pick up omiyage.
Day 3: Ninja Temple, West Teahouses, and Departure
Morning: Early bite at Omicho Market—line up for Yamato Sushi nigiri or a quick kaisen-don. Then head to Myoryu-ji (Ninja Temple) in the Teramachi temple district. It’s not truly ninja, but the hidden stairways, trap doors, and secret rooms are real; advance phone reservations are required, tours are in Japanese with English handouts.
Afternoon: Walk or bus to the quieter Nishi Chaya District, popping into the Nishi Chaya Shiryokan (a compact history stop) and nearby artisan shops. Pottery fans should detour to the Ohi Museum to see warm amber Ohi-yaki ware. For a final meal, taste Kanazawa curry—thick, dusky roux with shredded cabbage—at Turban Curry (an originator) or Champion Curry (local classic). Collect luggage and depart mid-afternoon by Shinkansen or airport bus.
Evening: If you have a late train, consider a last stroll through the Kanazawa Station Motenashi Dome and souvenir hunt: yatsuhashi-like wagashi from Morihachi, gold-leaf cosmetics, or regional sake. Then roll onto your train or flight with a bento for the road.
Where to book and how to move: For flexible stays, search VRBO Kanazawa and compare hotels on Hotels.com. Check trains and domestic flights via Trip.com (trains) and Trip.com (flights), or compare on Kiwi.com.
This 3-day Kanazawa itinerary balances serene gardens, living history, and edible highlights. From lantern-lit geisha lanes to art-forward museums and market-fresh sushi, you’ll leave with a deeper feel for Hokuriku culture—and a camera roll full of green, gold, and sea-blues.