Bologna, the scholarly heart of Emilia-Romagna, has worn its nicknames for centuries: La Dotta (the learned), La Grassa (the well-fed), and La Rossa (the red-hued roofs and left-leaning past). Founded around the oldest university in continuous operation in the West (1088), the city pairs medieval grit with a student buzz and an irresistible dining scene.

Its 40+ kilometers of porticoes—UNESCO-listed—thread through piazzas, markets, and hidden courtyards, sheltering you from summer sun and autumn rain alike. Under these arcades, you’ll find the Quadrilatero’s salumerie, tortellini workshops, and timeless osterie pouring local Lambrusco and Pignoletto.

Expect hearty plates and fair prices, especially off the main squares. Dress modestly for churches, keep an eye out for pickpockets around crowds, and book popular sights and food experiences in advance. With a mid-range budget and an adventurous vibe, you’ll climb towers, taste at the source, and chase sunset views over terracotta rooftops.

Bologna

Compact yet endlessly layered, Bologna rewards curious wanderers: frescoed libraries, the Basilica of San Petronio, the maze-like Quadrilatero, and canal glimpses through the Finestrella di Via Piella. For a thrill, ascend a historic tower or hike the 666-arch portico to the hilltop Sanctuary of Madonna di San Luca.

• Top sights: Piazza Maggiore, Basilica di San Petronio, Archiginnasio & Anatomical Theatre, the Two Towers (Asinelli—check access and prebook; alternative: Torre Prendiparte by appointment), Santo Stefano complex, Portico di San Luca.
• Signature bites: Tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù (the “true” Bolognese), mortadella, crescentine/tigelle, and artisan gelato.
• Adventurous picks: Tower climbs, portico trekking to San Luca, e-biking into the Colli Bolognesi, and Motor Valley museum days (Ferrari, Lamborghini, Pagani).

Getting there: Fly into Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ). For intercontinental fares, compare on Trip.com or Kiwi.com. Within Europe, check flights and rail on Omio (flights) and Omio (trains). Sample train times: Milan–Bologna ~1 hr; Florence–Bologna ~40 min; Rome–Bologna ~2–2.5 hrs (often €20–€60 if booked ahead). The Marconi Express links BLQ to Bologna Centrale in ~7–15 minutes; tickets typically from about €11–12 one-way.

Where to stay (mid-range focus): Search options on Hotels.com or browse apartments on VRBO. Favorites: Aemilia Hotel Bologna (modern, walkable to the center, great rooftop views), Hotel University (value stay by the historic university), and for a splurge, the aristocratic Grand Hotel Majestic “Già Baglioni” near Piazza Maggiore.

Quick eat & drink cheat sheet:

• Breakfast/Coffee: Caffè Terzi (specialty espresso flights); Pasticceria Gamberini (historic pastries); Aroma Specialty Coffee (pour-overs and light bites).
• Casual lunch: Sfoglia Rina (fresh pasta, go early); Mo Mortadella Lab (creative panini); Trattoria Anna Maria (classic ragù).
• Dinner trattorie: Osteria dell’Orsa (budget-friendly, no-frills classics); Trattoria di Via Serra (reserve); All’Osteria Bottega (seasonal Bolognese standards).
• Aperitivo & wine: Camera a Sud (natural wines); Osteria del Sole (1465 wine bar—bring your own food); Le Stanze (cocktails in a frescoed former chapel).
• Gelato: Cremeria Santo Stefano (rich, seasonal); Galliera 49 (velvety textures); Cremeria Cavour (pistachio fans, rejoice).

Day 1: Medieval Bologna, Markets, and Sunset Views

Morning: Travel to Bologna and check in. Drop bags and fuel up with an espresso and a crema pasticcera cornetto at Caffè Terzi. Stroll Piazza Maggiore and step into the Basilica di San Petronio; peek at the world’s longest meridian line inside. If you’ve got time, visit the Archiginnasio to see the wood-paneled Anatomical Theatre—medicine taught in a Baroque jewel box.

Afternoon: Join a guided intro to the city to get your bearings and hear the best stories.

Recommended tour: Bologna City Walking Tour

After the tour, roam the Quadrilatero’s food lanes. Pick up paper-thin mortadella, Parmigiano shards, and crescentine to snack. Pop by the Finestrella di Via Piella for a peek at Bologna’s hidden canal.

Evening: Time your city view for golden hour. If the Asinelli Tower climb is operating, prebook a slot; otherwise, choose the Basilica di San Petronio terrace elevator for sunset panoramas. Dine at All’Osteria Bottega: start with culatello and move to tortellini in brodo or tagliatelle al ragù. Nightcap at Le Stanze, sipping a Negroni beneath painted vaults.

Day 2: Factories, Tastings, and the Flavors of Emilia-Romagna (Full-Day)

This is a full-day food adventure into the “Food Valley,” perfect for an adventurous palate and mid-range budget. Early start, many tastings, and ample storytelling from local producers.

Featured experience: Bologna Food Experience: Factory tours & Family-Style Lunch

Watch dawn cheesemaking at a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy, walk aging rooms of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, and taste silky prosciutto. A convivial countryside lunch ties it together with regional wines. It’s immersive, filling, and gives you bragging rights for recognizing real balsamico back home.

Evening back in Bologna: Freshen up, then enjoy aperitivo at Camera a Sud—ask for a local Pignoletto frizzante. For dinner, try Osteria dell’Orsa for hearty portions at friendly prices. Dessert is non-negotiable: gelato at Cremeria Santo Stefano or Galliera 49.

Day 3: Cook Like a Bolognese, Portico Trek to San Luca, and Nightlife

Morning: Roll up your sleeves for a hands-on class—great value, deeply local, and deliciously fun.

Recommended class: Bologna Local Pasta Cooking Class: Ragu, Spritz & Mr. Gelato

Learn to hand-cut tagliatelle and simmer ragù the Bolognese way, toast with a Spritz, and finish with gelato. You’ll leave with techniques you can recreate at home.

Afternoon: Walk or e-bike the 666 arches to the Sanctuary of Madonna di San Luca. The gradual climb takes 45–75 minutes on foot and rewards you with rolling views over vineyards and the city’s red roofs. Prefer wheels? Rent an e-bike in town and cruise country lanes into the Colli Bolognesi for a scenic loop.

Evening: Celebrate your final night with a classic trattoria. Trattoria di Via Serra (book ahead) plates up sublime gramigna alla salsiccia; otherwise, Sfoglia Rina’s evening service hits the spot. For a last toast, seek out Osteria del Sole—order wine inside, bring snacks from nearby salumerie, and enjoy centuries of conviviality.

Optional swap for adrenaline lovers: Trade the morning cooking class for a Motor Valley deep-dive.

Alternative tour: Ferrari Lamborghini Pagani Factories and Museums - Tour from Bologna

It’s a bucket-list circuit through the Land of Motors—ideal if you crave horsepower with your tortellini.

Practical Tips and Bookings

• Transport in town: Bologna is walkable. For buses, buy TPER tickets at tabacchi/newsstands; day passes are good value. Taxis queue at major squares and the station.
• Trains and regional travel: Use Omio for fast Frecciarossa/Italo trains to Florence, Modena, Parma, Verona, Venice, and Milan. Buses can be cheaper on Omio (buses).
• Flights: For within-Europe routes compare on Omio; for long-haul into Europe, price-check on Trip.com and Kiwi.com.
• Bookings to lock early: Tower climbs, popular trattorie (Via Serra, Bottega), factory tours, and cooking classes.
• Budget pointers (~50/100 budget): Aim for a daily food budget of €30–45 by mixing market lunches with one sit-down meal. Aperitivo often includes snacks; gelato is an affordable treat. Many museums offer combined or reduced tickets.

More handpicked experiences (optional)

• Bologna Food & Market Tour with 6 Tastings, Pasta, Wines & More

  

• Bologna Private Highlights & Hidden Gems Tour with a Local

  

Wherever you land, base yourself centrally via Hotels.com or a homey historic-portico stay on VRBO to maximize time on foot.

In three days you’ll taste Emilia-Romagna at the source, trace Bologna’s story under its UNESCO porticoes, and earn your views with a climb or hill walk. The city’s spirit—curious, convivial, and hungry—tends to follow you home, especially after you’ve mastered a bowl of tagliatelle al ragù.