3 Days in Alexandria, Egypt: Mediterranean Corniche, Ancient Catacombs & the Great Library

A 15th-century sea fortress built on the exact spot where the ancient Pharos lighthouse once stood, using some of its fallen stone. Admission runs roughly 200-300 EGP; the ramparts give the best views back across the harbour to the city skyline. Open until about 5pm, so aim to arrive by mid-afternoon.

If you arrive too late for the fortress interior, walk the harbour promenade from Raml Station out to Qaitbay (about 30-40 minutes) past fishing boats and cafes. The wind-off-the-sea light near sunset is the city at its most cinematic.

The grandest mosque in Alexandria, a cream-and-beige confection with soaring minarets, built over the tomb of a 13th-century Andalusian saint. Free to enter outside prayer times; dress modestly and remove shoes. The plaza outside fills with families at dusk.

If you're based farther east, take an Uber to this graceful arched causeway with turreted towers over Stanley Bay, illuminated after dark and a favorite local hangout for evening tea and sea air. A quick, photogenic stop.

An institution on the harbour with big picture windows over the water. Choose your fish, calamari, and prawns by weight at the ice counter; expect around 400-700 EGP a head for a generous spread with mezze and bread. Book a window table at sunset.

A sprawling, family-friendly grill house famous for charcoal-cooked meats and seafood platters, popular with locals for its generous portions. A good pick if your group wants both fish and kebab; casual and lively.

A beloved Anfushi seafood spot near the fish market, run by a legendary local cook, known for spiced fish, clam soup, and crab. Unfussy and authentic, with prices friendlier than the harbour tourist tables.

A fragrant Greek-era coffee roaster from 1908 near Raml Station, all dark wood and brass grinders, where locals drink a quick cup standing at the counter. Order a Turkish coffee or espresso for a few pounds and soak up the vintage atmosphere.

The city's most famous foul and falafel (ta'ameya) house, a downtown institution since 1957. A filling breakfast of fava beans, fried falafel, eggs, and fresh bread costs well under 150 EGP. Expect a buzzing, cash-only room; go early to beat the queue.

A haunting three-level necropolis carved into rock in the 2nd century AD, where Egyptian, Greek, and Roman funerary art blend in one spiral descent. Admission is roughly 300 EGP; it's cool underground and genuinely unlike anywhere else. Allow about an hour.

A single 27-meter red granite column, the tallest of its kind, standing over the ruins of the ancient Serapeum temple with two granite sphinxes at its base. A 5-minute drive from the catacombs; admission around 200 EGP. Quick but striking.

A dependable Egyptian fast-casual chain for shawarma, grilled chicken, fiteer (Egyptian pastry), and koshari at very low prices. Fast, clean, and everywhere downtown, ideal when you want to eat and keep moving.

For Egypt's national comfort dish, a bowl of koshari (rice, lentils, pasta, chickpeas, crispy onions, and tangy tomato sauce) runs under 60 EGP and fuels an afternoon of sightseeing. Look for the busy, no-frills local counters near Raml.

The only Roman amphitheatre in Egypt, with marble tiers, mosaic floors, and the excavated 'Villa of the Birds' on site. Admission around 200 EGP; centrally located near Misr Station. Allow 45-60 minutes.

The dramatic tilted-disc library that reopened in 2002 as a tribute to the ancient one, with an 11-tier reading room, museums, and a planetarium. Entry to the library is around 70 EGP (bring passport); combined tickets add the antiquities and manuscript museums. Closes by late afternoon, so arrive by 3-4pm.

A 1905 cafe-patisserie on Saad Zaghloul Square with painted ceilings and marble tables, where the poet Cavafy once held court. Come for coffee, a slice of gateau, or an early aperitif in old-world surroundings.

A grand 1922 patisserie and cafe near Raml, famous for its ice cream, pastries, and cavernous belle-epoque room. A sweet, atmospheric pause before dinner.

A well-known Anfushi fish house where you pick your catch by weight and it arrives grilled with rice, tahina, and salads. Fresh, generous, and priced for locals; a favorite among Alexandrians for a seafood feast.

A legendary, no-frills seafood spot beloved for its simple grilled and fried fish sold by the kilo. Expect plastic chairs and superb freshness rather than polish; part of the Alexandria seafood rite of passage.

A downtown coffee roaster from 1929 with vintage decor and its own house blend, best drunk standing at the counter like the regulars. Quick, cheap, and full of character for a final caffeine hit.

If your hotel faces the sea, linger over breakfast with a harbour view before checking out. A calm start suits the lighter final day.

The lush former royal grounds of King Farouk, with the Florentine-style Al-Haramlik Palace, pine and palm gardens, and a picturesque bridge over a turquoise cove. Garden entry runs around 40-50 EGP; wander the paths and the beachfront for an easy, scenic morning.

A restored Italianate villa housing artifacts from Pharaonic, Greco-Roman, Coptic, and Islamic Alexandria, including finds recovered from the sunken city underwater. Admission around 200 EGP; small and well-curated, a perfect 60-90 minute stop to consolidate the trip's history.

A century-old Greek seafood taverna out in the fishing village of Abu Qir (east of Montazah), famous for grilled fish and calamari eaten on a terrace over the water. Worth the drive if your departure timing allows; otherwise, a memorable last taste of Alexandria's Greek heritage.

Perched atop the Greek Club beside Qaitbay Citadel with panoramic harbour views, serving Greek-Alexandrian seafood and mezze. A scenic, central choice for a final meal with the fortress right beside you; roughly 300-500 EGP a head.