Austria’s Salzburg region is where mountain lore meets music and age-old salt routes. Dürrnberg bei Hallein sits above the Salzach valley on meadows once worked by Celtic miners, its tunnels fueling Salzburg’s rise and funding Baroque façades that still gleam today. From here, you can fan out to lakes and peaks, museum courtyards, and quiet farm lanes scented with hay and woodsmoke.

Over 21 days, you’ll balance deep dives—like a salt mine tour and the Keltenmuseum—with unhurried mornings in cafés, hikes to waterfalls, and boat rides that slice across emerald lakes. Salzburg’s fortress crowns the skyline; in the Salzkammergut, pastel towns like Hallstatt and St. Wolfgang seem painted at dawn. Trains and buses knit the region neatly, so you can travel light and often.

Practical notes: seasonal alpine attractions (Eagle’s Nest, Schafberg cog railway, Eisriesenwelt ice cave, the Keltenblitz summer toboggan) typically run late spring to fall; winter swaps these for skiing and thermal spas. Austrian cuisine is hearty—think backhendl, knödel, and lake fish—while coffeehouse culture is a daily ritual. Carry a light rain shell, sturdy shoes, and cash for rural huts.

Salzburg

Salzburg is music writ in stone—Mozart’s birthplace framed by onion domes, the Festspielhaus, and the clifftop Hohensalzburg Fortress. Baroque lanes give way to river promenades, beer gardens, and hilltop viewpoints like the Mönchsberg. It’s the best springboard for day trips across the Salzach valley and into the lakes.

How to arrive: Fly into Salzburg (SZG) or nearby Munich (MUC) and connect by rail. Search flights within Europe via Omio. From Munich Airport, trains to Salzburg take about 2–2.5 hours (~€25–45) via Omio Trains.

Where to stay: Base in the Altstadt or around Mülln/Nonntal for easy walking.

• Browse apartments and chalets on VRBO Salzburg.
• Compare hotels near the river and fortress on Hotels.com Salzburg.

Days 1–3: Old Town Icons and Coffeehouse Culture

Walk Getreidegasse, peek into Mozart’s Geburtshaus, and climb to Hohensalzburg Fortress (allow 2–3 hours; combo tickets ~€17–20). Explore the DomQuartier’s baroque state rooms and galleries. Evenings, wander the Mönchsberg trails to the Museum der Moderne viewpoint for sunset cityscapes.

Eats and sips:

• Café Tomaselli: founded in 1703; order an Einspänner and a slice of Esterházy for a timeless start.
• 220 Grad Nonntal: third-wave roastery with meticulous pour-overs; avocado rye and shakshuka shine at brunch.
• Balkan Grill Walter: the city’s cult “Bosna” sausage stand—curry and onions in a warm roll; quick, cheap, delicious.
• Bärenwirt: famous for crispy backhendl (fried chicken) and Salzburger Nockerl; rustic, lively, very local.
• Augustiner Bräustübl Mülln: fill a stone stein from oak barrels and graze the indoor market stalls—pretzels, radishes, smokehouse trout.

Days 4–5: Palaces, Beer, and the Mountain at the Door

Ride the Untersberg cable car (round-trip ~€31; weather-dependent) for a short summit ramble between Austria and Bavaria. Visit Hellbrunn Palace—its trick fountains still spring surprises; combine with the Hellbrunn alley and the Sound of Music gazebo.

More good tables:

• St. Peter Stiftskulinarium: one of Europe’s oldest restaurants; try the tafelspitz and local wines in candlelit rooms.
• Die Weisse: Salzburg’s original wheat-beer brewery; pair a hefeweizen with käsespätzle or roast pork.
• Ikarus at Hangar‑7: ever-changing guest-chef menu under glass-and-steel aviation art; book well ahead.

Days 6–7: Lakeside Day Trips

Head east into the Salzkammergut. Bus 150 from Mirabellplatz to St. Gilgen and on to St. Wolfgang (about 1 hr to St. Gilgen, 1.5–2 hrs to St. Wolfgang; ~€10–15) via Omio Buses. Stroll St. Wolfgang’s promenade; in season, ride the Schafberg cog railway for giant-lake views.

Or visit Golling an der Salzach (train ~25–35 min; ~€8 via Omio Trains) for the thunderous Gollinger Wasserfall and a memorable meal at Döllerer’s in the village center.

Hallein (Bad Dürrnberg)

Hallein once minted Salzburg’s fortunes. Up on Bad Dürrnberg, you’ll descend into the very salt seams that shaped history, then step into a reconstructed Celtic village. The old town’s pastel lanes spill to the river, with a proud nod to Franz Xaver Gruber, composer of “Silent Night.”

Getting there, morning of Day 8: Salzburg Hbf to Hallein by S-Bahn S3 is ~18 minutes (~€4–6) via Omio Trains. Prefer buses? Lines 170/160 run a similar route (~30–40 minutes) via Omio Buses.

Where to stay: Sleep in Hallein’s compact center for cafés and museums, or on Bad Dürrnberg for forest paths and mine access.

• See cottages and apartments on VRBO Hallein.
• Find hotels and guesthouses on Hotels.com Hallein.

Days 8–10: Salzwelten, Celtic Roots, and Hallein Old Town

Tour Salzwelten Salzburg on Bad Dürrnberg (allow 2–3 hours). You’ll don miners’ garb, ride a little train, slide on wooden chutes, and cross the underground mirror lake while learning how “white gold” transformed the region (tickets ~€27–35; family options; open year-round with brief maintenance breaks).

Next door, the Celtic Village brings 2,500-year-old daily life to scale—smokehouses, weaving, and metalwork demonstrations in season. Back in town, the Keltenmuseum Hallein ties the story together with grave goods and marble artifacts; stop by the Franz Xaver Gruber site for “Silent Night” lore.

Cafés and meals in/near Hallein:

• Konditorei Braun: old-town pastry staple; try the Kardinalschnitte or a seasonal marillenkuchen with your melange.
• Kaltenhausen Brewery (Brauhaus): Austria’s oldest brewery site (since 1475); pair sudsy Helles or “Spezial” with schnitzel and brewer’s pretzels.
• Gasthof Hohlwegwirt (Anif): centuries-old inn cooking refined classics—veal roast with bread dumplings, seasonal game; timeless wooden stube ambiance.

Days 11–12: Gorges, Waterfalls, and a Destination Dinner

Ride the regional train to Golling (25–35 min) for the mossy, two-tier Gollinger Wasserfall; a short forest path leads to misty viewpoints. In summer, continue to Lammerklamm (bus/taxi) for easy boardwalks above turquoise chutes.

Book a long lunch or dinner at Döllerer’s in Golling—one of Austria’s most acclaimed kitchens—where alpine ingredients star in both a fine-dining menu and a relaxed Wirtshaus next door. Reserve ahead, especially on weekends.

Days 13–14: Across the Border or Up the Mountain

Day-trip to Berchtesgaden and Königssee (bus 840 from Salzburg or via train to Freilassing then on to Berchtesgaden; ~1–1.5 hrs from Hallein overall). Cruise to St. Bartholomä for smoked char from the lakeside fishery and hike the Malerwinkel for classic views. Note: Eagle’s Nest operates roughly May–October; off-season, visit the Dokumentation Obersalzberg museum and ride the Jennerbahn for snowy panoramas.

Alternatively, stay local: hike Zinkenkogel from Bad Dürrnberg or ride the Zinken lifts (winter skiing; in summer, the Keltenblitz alpine slide runs May–October). Ease travel aches at the modern Heiltherme Bad Vigaun thermal spa.

More food finds:

• Kranzbichlhof Café (Bad Dürrnberg): light lunches, cakes, and a sunny terrace after the mine tour or a forest walk.
• Café Maier Hallein: breakfast platters, semmel sandwiches, and excellent kipferl to-go before a day out.

Bad Ischl (Salzkammergut)

Set between lakes and low peaks, Bad Ischl blends imperial spa elegance with outdoorsy ease. It’s the most convenient base for Hallstatt, St. Wolfgang, and Wolfgangsee boat rides—plus cafés where the Habsburgs once nibbled cake.

Transfer, morning of Day 15: Hallein to Bad Ischl takes ~1 hr 50 min–2.5 hrs depending on route. Fastest is bus 150 from Salzburg to the lake district then onward (~€15–22) via Omio Buses; trains via Salzburg/Attnang-Puchheim are ~2–2.5 hrs (~€20–35) via Omio Trains.

Where to stay: Base in Bad Ischl for central rail/bus links; pop to Hallstatt and St. Wolfgang on day trips.

• Look for villas and riverside flats on VRBO Bad Ischl.
• Compare spa hotels and pensions on Hotels.com Bad Ischl.

Days 15–17: Imperial Bad Ischl and Easy Peaks

Tour the Kaiservilla, Franz Joseph’s summer residence, and wander the Kurpark and esplanade. Ride the Katrin cable car for a 7-lake panorama and a loop walk to the summit cross.

Bad Ischl bites:

• Café Zauner: arguably Austria’s finest pastry counter—order the Zaunerstollen and a Schlagobers-topped coffee; linger like an empress.
• K.U.K. Hofbeisl: old-school plates (goulash, schnitzel) with a cozy tiled-stove vibe; generous portions, fair prices.
• Kongress & TheaterHaus Bistro: modern, unfussy lunches—soups, quiche, salads—good for a quick pre-hike bite.

Days 18–19: Hallstatt and Dachstein Krippenstein

Train to Hallstatt station (~25–35 min), then the short ferry across the mirror-still lake—an arrival worthy of postcards. Stroll car-free lanes, visit the ossuary (Beinhaus), and sample lake fish at the waterfront.

For views, ride the Dachstein Krippenstein cable car to the 5 Fingers platform (in season). The Hallstatt salt mine and funicular make a great combo ticket if you want a second salt story—this time with sweeping lake overlooks. Tickets for cable cars/funiculars are ~€25–50 depending on sections.

Where to eat by the lake:

• Gasthof Zauner (Hallstatt): regional classics and lake char; warm wood interiors and long tradition.
• Bräugasthof Hallstatt: sit right over the water for trout, pork medallions, and local beers; linger at golden hour.

Days 20–21: St. Wolfgang, Boats, and a Last Alpine Sunset

Bus or boat-hop around Wolfgangsee. In season, the SchafbergBahn cog railway climbs to 1,783 m for a ridge walk with views over Mondsee, Attersee, and more. Off-season, stroll St. Wolfgang’s lanes, step into the Pfarrkirche, and walk part of the lakeshore to Ried.

Final tastings:

• Weisses Rössl am See (St. Wolfgang): lakeside dining from a storied inn—order the fish from local waters and a crisp Grüner Veltliner.
• Konditorei Wallner: flakey Topfenstrudel and berry tarts; grab a box for the journey home.

Getting back out

From Bad Ischl, return to Salzburg (~2 hrs by bus/train) via Omio Trains or Omio Buses. Then connect to your onward flight via Omio.

Optional add-ons and practical tips:

• Weather and seasons: Mountain lifts and gorges are typically May–Oct; winter excels for markets, skiing (Zinken, Dachstein West), and spas.
• Tickets and passes: Salzburg Card can bundle fortress, museums, and public transport—worth it if you’re doing multiple sights in two days.
• Hiking safety: Bring sturdy shoes; trails can be slick near waterfalls. Check lift maintenance schedules before you go.

Three weeks here let you savor the region’s rhythm: the hush of tunnels where salt once glittered, bells at noon across Baroque courtyards, and boats sliding over green water to onion-domed chapels. You’ll leave with pockets of time well spent—and plans to come back when the next season turns.