Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, has risen from more than forty recorded wars with a resilience that hums through its bohemian streets, riverside promenades, and layered architecture—from Ottoman remnants to Yugoslav modernism. Its name, “the white city,” hints at fortifications that once shone from the ridge at Kalemegdan, still guarding the confluence of the Sava and Danube.

Central Serbia, the country’s heartland, is a collage of monastery valleys, wine hills, and mountain air. Here you’ll taste kajmak and pršuta in lively kafanas, ride a heritage narrow‑gauge railway through forested gorges, and sip local tamjanika or prokupac in family wineries. Expect warm hospitality, generous portions, and a cost of travel that is friendly to a mid-range budget.

Practical notes: the currency is the Serbian dinar (RSD); cards are widely accepted in cities but bring cash for markets and villages. Taxis are affordable; buses and trains connect major towns (plan ahead for mountain routes). Spring and fall are ideal; summers are festive but warm. Tipping 10% is appreciated.

Belgrade

Days 1–9: Settle into Belgrade like a local

Wake to the scent of fresh burek and walk to a green market before drifting along the Danube at sunset—Belgrade rewards unhurried days. Base yourself in Vračar, Dorćol, or Zemun for a neighborhood feel, then stitch together histories at the Kalemegdan Fortress, St. Sava Temple, and the lively streets of Skadarlija.

• Arrival and getting around: Fly into Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport; compare fares on Omio (flights in Europe). For in-country moves, check Omio (trains) and Omio (buses). Belgrade’s trams and buses are frequent; rideshares and taxis are inexpensive.
• Walks & neighborhoods: Meander Dorćol’s café grid; climb to Kalemegdan for river views and cannon-lined ramparts; linger in Zemun’s Gardoš for cobblestones and the Millennium Tower; bike Ada Ciganlija’s lakeside loop.
• Markets & everyday life: Shop for peaches, peppers, and mountain cheese at Kalenić and Zeleni Venac markets; browse design studios in the Cetinjska 15 courtyard; catch an evening classical concert or alternative gig downtown.

Local-minded tours to orient yourself (choose 2–4 across these first days):

• Belgrade: 3-Hour Small Group Walking Tour

  

• Belgrade Underground Tour w/ Sparkling Wine Along the River

  

• Culinary Tour - get to know the Serbian food. Come hungry!

  

• Belgrade E-Bike Tour: Power Glide!

  

Day-trip options while based in Belgrade (space them out through the week):

• Northern Serbia: Sremski Karlovci and Novi Sad Full-Day Tour — Austro-Hungarian facades, baroque squares, and honeyed bermet wine.

  

• Along the Danube: Golubac Fortress & Iron Gate Gorge day trip — medieval walls and the Danube’s most dramatic canyon.

  

• Unwind one evening on the Belgrade Sunset Cruise w/ Live Tour Guide — see New Belgrade’s skyline glow from the water.

  

Eat & drink like a Belgrader:

• Breakfast/coffee: Grab still‑warm burek at Pekara Trpković (layers of cheese or meat, with yogurt). Sip specialty coffee at Pržionica in Dorćol or Kafeterija Magazin 1907 by the river.
• Lunch: Zavičaj (old-school soups, sarma, and grilled meats), Walter Sarajevski Ćevap (perfect ćevapi with kajmak), or Manufaktura (Balkan staples beneath a canopy of red umbrellas).
• Dinner: Tri Šešira in Skadarlija for tamburica music and classic dishes; Iva New Balkan Cuisine for a modern spin on seasonal Serbian produce; Enso or Homa for chef-driven tasting menus.
• Drinks: Rakia Bar (fruit brandies—start with quince or apricot), Samo Pivo (Serbian craft beers), or Dogma Brewery Tap Room in New Belgrade. For a sunset stroll with a glass of wine, head to Zemun’s riverside and the Gardoš promenade.
• Sweet bites: Pelivan (a 19th‑century pastry institution) or Crna Ovca for inventive gelato.

Where to stay (mix of hotels and apartments):

• Browse apartments and homes on VRBO Belgrade or hotels on Hotels.com Belgrade.
• Favorites: Square Nine Hotel Belgrade (design-forward luxury in Dorćol), Hotel Moskva (historic art nouveau on Terazije), Hyatt Regency Belgrade (New Belgrade comfort near the river), or budget-friendly Hostel Bongo (social vibe, central).

Day 10: Optional Šumadija tasting or museum day

If you want a countryside interlude before the mountains, time an excursion to Šumadija’s royal hill of Oplenac (St. George’s Church mosaics) and nearby wineries. Back in town, pair the Museum of Yugoslavia and House of Flowers with post-war architecture spotting in New Belgrade.

• Architecture buffs: Architecture of New Belgrade - Brutalism Decoded

  

Day 11: Transfer morning to the mountains (Belgrade → Zlatibor)

Head to Zlatibor, your base for Western Serbia’s forests, caves, and river canyons. It’s an easy, scenic journey south.

• By train + short bus/taxi: Belgrade Centar to Užice (~3.75–4.25 hours, ~€12–18), then 30–40 minutes by local bus/taxi to Zlatibor. Check times on Omio (trains).
• By direct bus: Belgrade to Zlatibor ~4.5–5 hours, ~€15–20. See schedules on Omio (buses). Depart in the morning to arrive by lunch and stretch your legs around the lake.

Zlatibor (base for Tara NP & Western Serbia)

Days 12–16: Forest air, heritage railways, and canyon views

Zlatibor blends alpine meadows with lively town energy—stroll the lake, sample mountain charcuterie, and plan for day trips. This region’s icons—Tara National Park, the House on the Drina, the Šargan Eight Railway, and Drvengrad—are all within reach.

• Tara National Park & the Drina: Hike spruce-scented trails, stop at Banjska Stena viewpoint for a sweeping bend of the Drina, and lunch at Restaurant Vrelo in Perućac, perched by a tiny 365‑meter river that tumbles straight into the Drina.
• Šargan Eight & Mokra Gora: Ride the 1920s narrow‑gauge line looping through 22 tunnels; explore Drvengrad (Küstendorf), a whimsical wooden village built by director Emir Kusturica.
• Caves & waterfalls: Combine Stopića Cave (underground terraced pools) with the frothy cascades of Gostilje Waterfall.
• Uvac meanders (long day): For avid hikers and photographers, the emerald serpentines of Uvac are worth the early start.

If you prefer guided experiences (often run ex‑Belgrade) that mirror these sights:

• Full-Day Trip from Belgrade: Tara National Park & The Drina River Valley

  

• Šargan Eight Railway, Wooden Town & House on Drina day trip

  

Eat & drink (mountain edition):

• Breakfast: Try a Zlatibor staple—komplet lepinja (a stuffed flatbread with egg and kajmak)—from a local bakery on Kraljev trg; pair with thick Serbian coffee.
• Lunch: Restaurant Bajka by the lake for trout or veal under the bell; in Mokra Gora, Lotika serves hearty soups and grilled meats with mountain views.
• Dinner: Sample Zlatibor pršuta, kajmak, and lamb on the spit at a traditional kafana; ask for local rakija (plum or quince) to toast the sunset.

Where to stay:

• Search cabins and chalets on VRBO Zlatibor or hotels on Hotels.com Zlatibor. Aim to be near the lake for easy evening strolls.

Day 17: Optional nature add-on or spa time

Book a second Tara loop for deeper trails, or spend the day easy: a cable-car ride over Zlatibor’s hills, a spa session, and an early dinner of baked beans (prebranac) and grilled mushrooms.

Day 18: Return to Belgrade (morning)

• By train: Užice → Belgrade Centar ~3.75–4.25 hours, ~€12–18 via Omio (trains).
• By bus: Zlatibor → Belgrade ~4.5–5 hours, ~€15–20 via Omio (buses). Settle back in for two final, food-forward days.

Days 19–21: Belgrade encore—museums, riverlight, and a grand finale

Use these last days to deepen what you loved most: a museum duo (Nikola Tesla plus Museum of Yugoslavia), a stroll through Kosančićev Venac, and a golden-hour climb to Gardoš Tower in Zemun.

• Belgrade Big Tour: Top Attractions and Belgrade Neighborhoods — a comprehensive overview if you prefer a guided capstone.

  

• If you missed it earlier, hop back aboard the Belgrade Sunset Cruise for farewell views.

  

• Food finale: Share mezze-style Balkan dishes at Ambar on the river, or return to Skadarlija for live music at Dva Jelena. End with a late espresso and krempita at an old-school poslastičarnica.

Budget tips (target: 50/100): City transport is low-cost; market picnics and hearty kafanas keep meals affordable. Plan 1–2 splurge dinners in Belgrade, and lean on apartment kitchens for breakfasts; in the mountains, self-cater picnic lunches and support village eateries at dinner.

Summary: This three-week Serbia travel guide keeps you rooted—two bases, dozens of neighborhood rituals, and flexible day trips to rivers, railways, and royal hills. You’ll leave with a pocketful of favorite cafés, a taste for kajmak, and the kind of city-and-country rhythm travelers cherish long after wheels-up.