Bologna is one of Italy’s most storied university cities, founded in 1088 and still buzzing with students, bookshops, and portico-shaded cafes. Nicknamed “La Dotta, La Rossa, La Grassa” (the learned, the red, the indulgent), it pairs medieval towers and terracotta rooftops with a culinary tradition that’s become shorthand for comfort: ragù, tortellini in brodo, mortadella, and silky egg pasta.

Wander under UNESCO-listed porticoes—more than 60 km of arcades—linking palaces, markets, and basilicas in weatherproof elegance. The heart of the city beats in Piazza Maggiore, hemmed by the Basilica di San Petronio and civic palazzi; a few lanes away, the Quadrilatero market has sold cheeses, salumi, and fresh sfoglia for centuries.

Practical notes: Bologna’s centro storico has a ZTL (limited traffic zone), so plan to park outside or arrive by train. Comfortable shoes are essential for cobblestones and tower climbs. Dress modestly for churches, and come hungry—meals tend to be hearty, local, and proudly traditional.

Bologna

Think of Bologna as a living textbook of Italian city life: morning espresso at the counter, market lunch in the Quadrilatero, golden-hour aperitivo beneath frescoed ceilings, and an evening passeggiata under the porticoes. Its top sights include the Due Torri (Asinelli and Garisenda), the Basilica di San Petronio with its solar meridian line, the Archiginnasio & Teatro Anatomico, and the Santo Stefano “Seven Churches” complex.

• Top eats: Tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini in brodo, gramigna alla salsiccia, crescentine/tigelle with cured meats, mortadella, and gelato (Cremeria Santo Stefano, La Sorbetteria Castiglione, Galliera 49).
• Great cafes: Caffè Terzi (espresso temple), Forno Brisa (bakery and specialty coffee), Pasticceria Gamberini (historic pastries).
• Where to stay (affiliate links):
  • Grand Hotel Majestic “Già Baglioni” (5-star classic steps from Piazza Maggiore): Check availability
  • Aemilia Hotel Bologna (modern comfort near the university): Check availability
  • Hotel University (value-friendly, central): Check availability
  • Browse apartments and townhouses: VRBO Bologna or hotels across budgets: Hotels.com Bologna
• How to get here: Fly into BLQ (Guglielmo Marconi Airport), then ride the Marconi Express people mover (~7 minutes, ~€11) to Bologna Centrale. For flights within or to/from Europe and trains across Italy: Search flights on Omio and Search trains on Omio. Typical high-speed train times: Florence 37–45 min (~€15–€35), Milan 65–75 min (~€20–€45), Venice 1.5–2 hr (~€15–€35), Rome 2–2.5 hr (~€25–€60).

Day 1: Porticoes, Piazza Maggiore, and a Flavor-Packed Evening

Morning: Travel day. If you’re coming by train, Bologna Centrale is a short walk or taxi ride from the historic center. If you’re flying, use the Marconi Express to Centrale, then stroll or taxi to your hotel. Drop bags and get your bearings with a standing espresso and a tiny pastry at Caffè Terzi—order a macchiato and a bite of torta di riso to reset your travel clock.

Afternoon: Start in Piazza Maggiore to admire the Basilica di San Petronio. Step inside to see Cassini’s 17th-century meridian line—the sun still traces time across the nave at midday. Then wander to the Archiginnasio & its wood-paneled Teatro Anatomico, where anatomy lessons took place by candlelight. To orient yourself (and hear the best stories about the towers, canals, and guilds), join this guided walk:

Bologna City Walking Tour

Post-tour, slip into the Quadrilatero market. Pop by a salumeria for paper-thin mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano shards, and balsamic-drizzled flakes. If you prefer a sit-down lunch, Osteria dell’Orsa serves generous tagliatelle al ragù at student-friendly prices; for a classic, Trattoria Anna Maria does tortellini in brodo the old way.

Evening: Aperitivo in Bologna is a ritual. Two favorites: Osteria del Sole (wine-only bar from 1465; bring your own food from nearby delis) or Camera a Sud (natural-leaning wines, cozy vibe). For a guided, progressive dinner that threads history through each bite, opt for this highly-rated evening walk:

Bologna: Dinner, Wine & Tastings Walking Tour

Still up for a nightcap? Try Ruggine for amaro-forward cocktails or Le Stanze, a bar set in a former chapel with frescoed walls. For dessert, head to Cremeria Santo Stefano for pistachio di Bronte or the signature Crema di Guglielmo—one of the city’s best gelati.

Day 2: Towers, Markets, and Hands-on Pasta

Morning: Wake early for a flaky maritozzo or pizza al taglio at Forno Brisa, plus a cappuccino. Book a timed slot to climb the Asinelli Tower (498 steps; allow 45–60 minutes)—the panorama over Bologna’s terracotta sea is unforgettable. Afterwards, explore the Santo Stefano complex (the “Seven Churches”) and browse the food stalls that spill through Via Pescherie Vecchie. To taste the city’s staples with context (and find your favorite tortellini), join this small-group market walk:

Bologna Food & Market Tour with 6 Tastings, Pasta, Wines & More

If you’d rather stretch your legs under the world’s longest portico, walk part of the 3.8 km, 666-arch route to the Sanctuary of San Luca, or ride the tourist mini-train from Piazza Maggiore for views back toward the city.

Afternoon: Lunch ideas before you depart or before class: Sfoglia Rina (fresh pasta counter; try gramigna alla salsiccia) or All’Osteria Bottega (reservations recommended; impeccable salumi and traditional primi). Cap your Bologna stay by learning to roll sfoglia and simmer a proper ragù in this convivial workshop (usually 3 hours):

Bologna Local Pasta Cooking Class: Ragu, Spritz & Mr. Gelato

Departing this afternoon? From the center, it’s ~15–25 minutes to Bologna Centrale on foot or by taxi. For airport-bound travelers, the Marconi Express takes ~7 minutes from Centrale. Compare trains or flights for onward travel with Omio Trains and Omio Flights; high-speed trains to Florence often run every 15–30 minutes.

Evening: If you’re staying a second night, book Drogheria della Rosa for dinner (old-school service, rose-colored dining room, excellent tortelloni) or Trattoria di Via Serra (slow-food spirit; try crescentine with cured meats and pickled vegetables). Finish with gelato at Galliera 49 or a glass of Lambrusco at Osteria Le Sette Chiese. Tip: Many kitchens open for dinner around 7:30–8:00 pm; reservations are wise on weekends.

Optional upgrade for car lovers or serious foodies (full-day, plan accordingly): If you ever return with an extra day, the nearby “Motor Valley” and Modena’s dairies and acetaie are close. Consider a factory-and-flavor immersion such as the Bologna Full Day Food Factory Tour and Wine Tasting or a Ferrari museum–paired tasting day; both start from Bologna and run 7–9 hours.

Where to book transport quickly: For Europe flights and trains, use Omio Flights and Omio Trains. If you’re combining Italy with Asia later, you can compare international trains and flights via Trip.com Trains and Trip.com Flights as needed.

In two days you’ll taste the essence of Emilia-Romagna, from market counters to a skillet of slow-cooked ragù, while tracing Bologna’s history under its timeless porticoes. You’ll leave with a head full of skyline views and a new respect for the art of sfoglia—plus a shortlist of places you’ll want to revisit.