2 Days on Estonia’s Wild Baltic Edge: A Paldiski and Pakri Peninsula Itinerary
Once a closed Soviet naval town, Paldiski sits on Estonia’s rugged Pakri Peninsula—a cinematic strip of limestone cliffs, lonely beacons, and Baltic Sea winds. Today, the fences are gone and the area has blossomed into a compelling mix of nature, history, and quietly creative culture. In just two days you can climb a lighthouse, stroll cliffside trails, and taste New Nordic cuisine under fragrant pines.
The region’s story stretches back to Peter the Great, who established a military port here in 1718; the town was later known as Baltiyski Port before becoming Paldiski in the 20th century. During the Cold War, the USSR operated a nuclear submarine training center nearby—remnants of which still dot the landscape. That layered past gives Paldiski a distinctive character: part bird-filled sanctuary, part open-air museum.
Practicalities are refreshingly simple. Tallinn is only about an hour away by train or bus, making Paldiski ideal for a quick coastal escape. Weather shifts quickly on the headland, so pack layers, a windproof jacket, and sturdy shoes for the cliff paths. Cards are widely accepted, fresh fish is a local staple, and the sunsets over the Pakri islands are as good as anywhere on the Baltic Sea.
Paldiski
Paldiski is the gateway to the Pakri Peninsula’s raw beauty—think stratified limestone cliffs, seabird colonies, and lighthouse views stretching toward the horizon. You’ll wander past Soviet-era relics, coastal meadows, and sleepy harbors, then warm up with proper Estonian fare or a refined Nordic-inspired dinner in nearby Laulasmaa.
- Pakri Cliffs (Pakri pank): A dramatic limestone escarpment dropping up to ~24 m to the sea. Boardwalks and viewpoints near Leetse offer safe vantage points—stay behind railings, especially on windy days.
- Pakri Lighthouse: The current brick tower dates to the late 19th century and sits atop the cliff. When open (typically spring–autumn), you can climb to a viewing gallery for 360-degree panoramas.
- Keila-Joa Waterfall & Park: A short drive from Paldiski, this fan-shaped waterfall is one of Estonia’s prettiest. A loop path and suspension bridge offer classic photo spots year-round.
- Laulasmaa & Arvo Pärt Centre: Pine forests, quiet beaches, a renowned spa, and a serene cultural center dedicated to Estonia’s famed composer—great for an unhurried afternoon.
- Optional summer boat trips: In calm weather, small-boat excursions to the Pakri Islands run seasonally; expect birdlife, lighthouse ruins, and rugged shorelines.
How to get there & around: Fly into Tallinn (TLL), then take a train or bus to Paldiski. For flights to or within Europe, compare options on Omio (Flights). From Tallinn’s Balti jaam, the train to Paldiski takes about 60–70 minutes; typical fares run ~€3–6—check schedules and buy tickets via Omio (Trains in Europe). Buses take a similar time and price; see Omio (Buses in Europe). Arriving from Finland? Ferries between Helsinki and Tallinn take ~2–2.5 hours (often €20–40); browse Omio (Ferries in Europe). Driving from Tallinn to Paldiski takes ~50 minutes via Route 8.
Where to stay: Paldiski has a handful of simple stays plus apartments; many travelers base in Paldiski for proximity to the cliffs or nearby Laulasmaa for spa comforts. Browse local apartments and houses on VRBO (Paldiski) or compare hotels and spa resorts via Hotels.com (Paldiski). Look for listings mentioning “Pakri,” “Laulasmaa,” or “Keila-Joa” to be close to daily highlights.
Day 1: Pakri Cliffs, Lighthouse Vistas, and Coastal Flavors
Morning: Travel day. If you land in Tallinn before noon, grab a quick bite near the station (Balti jaam market has takeaways) and catch the ~1h train to Paldiski via Omio (Trains). On arrival, drop bags at your stay and pick up picnic supplies—look for a local Coop supermarket—for cliffside snacks (dark rye, smoked fish, Estonian cheese, and berry kefir travel well).
Afternoon: Head straight for the Pakri Cliffs. Start near Leetse where marked viewpoints and short boardwalks keep you safely away from the edge. Watch for kittiwakes and cormorants riding thermals. If open, climb the Pakri Lighthouse for superb views of the peninsula and the distant Pakri Islands; allow 45–60 minutes for the visit. Keep layers handy—winds can be brisk even in summer.
Evening: For an atmospheric, local dinner in town, try Peetri Toll Taverna (traditional Estonian comfort food—think beet salad, fish soups, and hearty mains; casual, family-friendly). If you’re up for a short drive (15–20 minutes), book a table at Restaurant Wicca in Laulasmaa, known for New Nordic plates built around coastal herbs, mushrooms, and Baltic fish; their seasonal tasting menus pair well with Estonian ciders. For a nightcap, choose a local craft beer (look for Põhjala or Õllenaut labels) or a sea-buckthorn tea before turning in.
Day 2: Waterfalls, Forest Culture, and Optional Rummu Adventure
Morning: Breakfast near your stay—if you’re in Laulasmaa, the spa’s casual bistro typically serves porridge with berry compote, warm pastries, and strong coffee; otherwise, grab fresh buns and yogurt from Coop and enjoy a quick picnic. Drive or bus to Keila-Joa Waterfall (~20 minutes from Paldiski). Walk the ~2–3 km loop past the suspension bridge and manor park viewpoints; after rains the flow is especially dramatic.
Afternoon: Continue to nearby Laulasmaa for culture and lunch. The Arvo Pärt Centre offers guided tours and a tranquil tower reading room; check on-site schedule and allow 60–90 minutes. For lunch, opt for the center’s light café fare (soups, quiches, cakes) or a relaxed set menu at Laulasmaa’s casual restaurant featuring Baltic fish and seasonal veg. If you prefer an indulgent finale, reserve lunch at Cher Ami in Keila-Joa Castle—elegant plates in a historic setting. Return to Paldiski to collect your bags and catch the afternoon train/bus to Tallinn via Omio (Trains) or Omio (Buses) (about 60–75 minutes, usually €3–6).
Evening: If you’re staying an extra night in the area, time sunset at the Pakri Cliffs—the sky often glows amber over the sea. Food-wise, summer brings casual bites at Kloogaranna beach cafés (try fish soup and a Baltic sprat sandwich). Adventurous travelers can also swap the morning waterfall stop for a guided Rummu quarry outing (about 25 minutes from Paldiski): paddleboard or kayak over electric-blue water above the submerged prison ruins (2 hours; typical rentals ~€20–35 in season). Safety note: only go with authorized operators and heed local rules.
Local tips: Stay behind cliff railings—limestone undercuts can crumble after storms. Bring insect repellent in midsummer and microspikes in icy shoulder seasons. For souvenirs, look for juniper wood items, sea-buckthorn products, and local woolens in small shops and markets.
Booking quick links: Flights to/from Europe via Omio (Flights); Tallinn–Paldiski tickets on Omio (Trains) and Omio (Buses); ferries (Helsinki–Tallinn) on Omio (Ferries). Stays: VRBO Paldiski and Hotels.com Paldiski.
In two days, Paldiski rewards you with lighthouse views, thundering waterfalls, and a rare peek at the Baltic’s wilder edge. It’s an easy hop from Tallinn, yet it feels like a world apart—quiet, windswept, and deeply memorable.

