Varanasi—also called Banaras or Kashi—has drawn seekers for over 2,500 years. Hindus believe the Ganges here grants purification, and the city’s ghats (riverfront steps) form a living theater of devotion, music, and everyday life. At dawn, oars slip through saffron light; by night, lamps shimmer as priests perform the famed Ganga Aarti.

Wander the old city’s labyrinth where temple bells echo over spice-scented lanes. Watch silk weavers shuttle threads into luminous Banarasi saris, a craft passed down for generations. Take a short trip to Sarnath, where the Buddha delivered his first sermon and Ashokan history still stands.

Practical notes: the best months are October–March; summers are hot and humid, and monsoon can disrupt boats. Dress modestly at temples; photography is restricted at cremation ghats. Carry small cash for boats, offerings, and street food, and expect e-rickshaws and walking to be your fastest “transport” in the old city.

Varanasi (Banaras)

Banaras is India distilled: sacred rituals at the river, artisanal handlooms, kitchens that turn tomatoes into legendary chaat, and rooftops that glow with lanterns. You’ll divide your time between the ghats, the old city’s narrow galis, and serene Sarnath.

• Top sights: Dashashwamedh Ghat (evening Ganga Aarti), Assi Ghat (Subah-e-Banaras at dawn), Kashi Vishwanath Temple and corridor, Manikarnika Ghat (view respectfully), and Sarnath’s Dhamek Stupa and Archaeological Museum.
• Eat & drink: Kashi Chaat Bhandar (tomato chaat and palak chaat), Deena Chaat Bhandar (papdi and golgappa), Blue Lassi Shop (saffron or pomegranate lassi), Ram Bhandar (kachori-sabzi, jalebi), Aum Café (healthy vegetarian breakfasts), Open Hand Café (coffee, scrambles, pancakes), Baati Chokha (litti with smoky chokha), Pizzeria Vaatika Café (river-view pizza and apple pie), Varuna at Taj Ganges (classic North Indian).
• Local experiences: Sunrise and sunset boat rides, a silk-weaving demonstration in Madanpura or Sarai Mohana, morning classical music at Assi Ghat, and a thandai (non-bhang) at Baba Thandai near Godowlia.
• Fun fact: The city’s 80+ ghats each have a story; the aarti at Dashashwamedh has run daily for decades, with priests choreographing lamps, conch, and mantra to honor the river.

Where to stay: For atmospheric river views, consider heritage havelis along the ghats; for calmer nights and easy car access, look at the Cantonment (Cantt) area. Browse stays on VRBO or compare hotels on Hotels.com. Names to shortlist: BrijRama Palace (Darbhanga Ghat) for historic ambience, Taj Ganges (Cantt) for polished service, Amritara Suryauday Haveli (Shivala Ghat) for river sunrises, and Hotel Madin (Cantt) for modern comfort.

Getting there: Varanasi’s Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) sits ~45–60 minutes from the old city. Fly in from Delhi (~1h25; ~$40–120), Mumbai (~2h; ~$60–140), or Kolkata (~1h10; ~$35–90) and book via Trip.com (flights) or Kiwi.com. Trains from Delhi include the Vande Bharat (~8 hrs; ₹1,800–2,500) and Shiv Ganga Express (~10–11 hrs); from Kolkata, ~9–10 hrs. Check schedules and fares on Trip.com (trains).

Day 1: Arrival, Old City Orientation, and the Ganga Aarti

Morning: Travel to Varanasi. If you arrive early, drop bags, then ease into the city with coffee and a light bite at Open Hand Café near Assi Ghat (good espresso, shakshuka, pancakes) or Aum Café (smoothies, porridge, buckwheat crêpes). Otherwise, rest up for an immersive afternoon.

Afternoon: Check in, then head toward Dashashwamedh Ghat by e-rickshaw or on foot through Godowlia. Pause at Blue Lassi Shop for a thick saffron or pomegranate lassi served in a clay cup. As sunset nears, hire a boat (shared ₹100–300 per person; private ₹800–1,500 per hour) to glide past the ghats while the sky turns copper.

Evening: Take your seat for the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat (arrive ~45–60 mins early for the best view; donation-based VIP seating is sometimes available). Bells, conch, and lamps rise in unison—an unforgettable river ritual. Afterward, feast at Kashi Chaat Bhandar (don’t miss the signature tomato chaat, palak chaat, and dahi puri) or Deena Chaat Bhandar nearby for crisp papdi and tangy aloo tikki. Prefer a sit-down dinner? Try Varuna at Taj Ganges for kebabs and rich gravies, or Brown Bread Bakery for a casual rooftop and organic bakes.

Day 2: Dawn on the Ganges, Kashi Vishwanath, Sarnath, and Silk Weavers

Morning: Be at Assi Ghat by pre-dawn for Subah-e-Banaras—a serene blend of Vedic chants, aarti, and live classical music. Then take a sunrise boat ride north toward Manikarnika Ghat to see the city wake: bathers, chai sellers, and priests preparing puja. Disembark and weave through the lanes for darshan at Kashi Vishwanath Temple (no phones or bags inside; use official lockers; dress modestly). Breakfast afterward: go local at Ram Bhandar (kachori-sabzi and jalebi) or return toward Assi for a wholesome plate at Aum Café.

Afternoon: Make a short excursion to Sarnath (~10 km; 30–45 mins by cab). Visit the Dhamek Stupa and the Archaeological Museum (noting it’s closed on Fridays) to see the exquisite Lion Capital of Ashoka—the emblem of India. The Mulagandha Kuti Vihar’s murals are another quiet highlight. Return to town for lunch: Baati Chokha (rustic litti with smoky chokha and ghee) or Pizzeria Vaatika Café at Assi Ghat (thin-crust pizza, beloved apple pie, river breeze).

Evening: Explore a Banarasi silk weaving workshop in Madanpura or Sarai Mohana; your hotel or a licensed guide can arrange a respectful visit. You’ll watch handlooms clatter as zari threads become brocades; fair-price cooperatives are good places to buy (shawls from ~₹1,200; saris range widely, ₹3,000–50,000+). Cap your night with a non-bhang almond thandai at Baba Thandai near Godowlia, or—if you didn’t last night—catch the quieter evening aarti at Assi Ghat. If departing this afternoon, compress the weaving stop before lunch and head to the airport (~45–60 mins from the old city).

Local tips and etiquette: At cremation ghats, keep distance and do not photograph. Carry a scarf for temple visits; footwear is left at stands. During monsoon, confirm boat safety and schedules. Use e-rickshaws or walk in the old city; cabs and rideshares (Ola) are better for Sarnath and airport transfers.

Book your essentials: Find stays on VRBO or Hotels.com. Reserve flights on Trip.com or Kiwi.com, and check Indian rail options via Trip.com (trains).

In two days, Banaras offers a moving sweep—from dawn mantras and drifting diyas to crunchy chaat and clattering looms. You’ll leave with sandalwood on your clothes, a sari’s sheen in your eye, and the Ganges’ cadence in your memory.