2 Days in Lecce, Puglia: Baroque Stonework, Street Food, and Slow Living
Sunlit and honey-colored, Lecce is the Baroque heart of Puglia, carved from soft “pietra leccese” limestone and burnished by centuries of Mediterranean light. Nicknamed the “Florence of the South,” it dazzles with curling stonework, ornate facades, and piazzas that hum well past sunset.
Romans left their footprint with an amphitheatre still rising in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, while Spanish rule fueled a Baroque boom that gave us the Basilica di Santa Croce—Lecce’s ornate masterpiece. Today, the city is also a cradle of cartapesta (papier-mâché) artisans, independent wine bars, and kitchens that champion Salento’s recipes.
Expect unhurried meals, afternoon siestas, and evenings built around the passeggiata. Pack modest attire for churches, comfortable shoes for cobblestones, and an appetite for rustico leccese, pasticciotto, orecchiette, and Negroamaro wines. The historic center is compact, walkable, and largely traffic-restricted (ZTL), making wandering part of the joy.
Lecce
Lecce’s historic core is a stage set of balconies, cherubs, and fantastical creatures carved in stone. Start at Piazza Sant’Oronzo for a glimpse of the Roman Amphitheatre, then drift to the Basilica di Santa Croce to marvel at its riotous facade—fruit garlands, beasts, and saints in dialogue with the sky.
Dive into Salento’s flavors: flakey rustico pastries, creamy pasticciotti, and hand-rolled orecchiette. Between bites, peek into cartapesta workshops and the Museo della Cartapesta in the Castello di Carlo V to see how humble paper becomes sacred art.
- Don’t miss: Basilica di Santa Croce, Piazza Sant’Oronzo & Roman Amphitheatre, Lecce Cathedral and its square, Porta Napoli, Castello di Carlo V, Villa Comunale gardens.
- Local tastes: Rustico leccese, pasticciotto, puccia bread, frisella, orecchiette with cime di rapa, burrata, Primitivo & Negroamaro wines.
- Neighborhood notes: Stay inside the Centro Storico for atmosphere; Porta Napoli side is quiet and scenic; Mazzini offers modern shops a 10–12 minute stroll from the old town.
Where to stay
Search boutique stays and historic palazzi inside the walls, or contemporary rooms near Piazza Mazzini:
- Vacation rentals (great for families or kitchens): Browse Lecce on VRBO.
- Hotels and B&Bs (from design-forward to classic): Browse Lecce on Hotels.com.
Typical ranges (as of 2025): B&Bs $90–180/night, boutique hotels $150–300/night, apartments $100–220/night depending on location and season (August peaks).
Getting to Lecce
- Flights within Europe: Fly to Brindisi (BDS) or Bari (BRI), then train/bus to Lecce. Search and compare on Omio Flights (Europe).
- Flights from outside Europe: Connect via Rome, Milan, or another EU hub. Compare global options on Kiwi.com or Trip.com Flights.
- Train to Lecce: From Rome Termini 5.5–6.5h (often 1 change in Bari), from Bari 1h40–2h, from Brindisi 30–40 min. Check times and fares on Omio Trains (Europe).
- Buses: Regional buses link Brindisi Airport to Lecce’s City Terminal in 40–50 min. See options on Omio Buses (Europe).
Local transfer tips: From Brindisi Airport to Lecce: shuttle bus (~50 min), regional train via Brindisi station (30–40 min total once on the train), or taxi/transfer (~35–40 min; expect €60–80). Lecce’s station is a 12–15 minute walk to the old town.
Day 1 — Arrival, Baroque Orientation, Hands‑On Pasta
Morning: Travel to Lecce. If you arrive early, drop bags and take a gentle loop through the Villa Comunale gardens to reset from the road. Grab a first taste at Pasticceria Natale—order a warm pasticciotto (custard-filled pastry) and an espresso; or sit under the arcades of Caffè Alvino for a rustico leccese (flaky pastry with béchamel and tomato).
Afternoon: Check into your stay and wander to Piazza Sant’Oronzo to take in the Roman Amphitheatre and the city’s iconic column. Then meet your guide for a personal overview:
Lecce Private Walking Tour - Local Highlights & Hidden Gems

This tailored stroll decodes the Basilica di Santa Croce’s exuberant facade, reveals artisan ateliers, and threads hidden courtyards you might miss alone. It’s an efficient 2–2.5 hours that orients you and builds a story for what you’ll see next.
Post‑tour gelato? Natale’s counter does a stellar pistachio and almond. Or sip a quick Negroamaro at Mamma Elvira Enoteca to preview Salento wines.
Evening: Roll up your sleeves for dinner you’ll make yourself in an atmospheric old‑town setting:
Orecchiette Cooking Class and Wine Pairing in Lecce

Learn to hand-roll orecchiette and match local wines with regional flavors, then enjoy a convivial meal with your hosts. If you’re up for a nightcap after, stroll to Quanto Basta, Lecce’s acclaimed cocktail bar, for an Italianate Negroni riff or a low‑ABV spritz.
Dining alternatives (if you prefer a sit‑down restaurant):
- Le Zie Trattoria — Unpretentious “cucina casalinga” favorite for ciceri e tria (crispy‑soft pasta with chickpeas) and polpette di melanzane. Book ahead; it’s beloved.
- Alle due Corti — Old‑guard recipes in vaulted rooms; try pitta di patate (potato pie) and orecchiette with tomato and cacioricotta.
- Osteria degli Spiriti — White‑tablecloth Apulian classics, thoughtful wine list, and polished service—ideal for a celebratory evening.
Day 2 — Street Food, Crafts & Departure
Morning: Start with coffee at Doppiozero (think flaky cornetti, rustic breads, and seasonal tarts). Then eat your way through the historic center on a small‑group tasting walk:
Lecce History and Street Food Tasting Small Group Tour

In about 2.5 hours you’ll sample rustico, puccia, cheeses, and sweets while weaving past Baroque showpieces and local markets—an efficient blend of history and flavor that frees your afternoon.
Prefer a deeper cultural angle instead of more bites? Consider this insightful visit:
Tour of Lecce with a visit to the basement of the ancient synagogue

Explore the Underground Jewish Museum and the city’s medieval Jewish heritage—an often overlooked layer of Lecce’s story.
Afternoon: Pick up picnic treats (friselle, olives, capocollo) from Mamma Elvira Enoteca or a quick slice at Pizza&Co. Then browse cartapesta studios near the Duomo or duck into the Museo della Cartapesta in the Castello di Carlo V. When it’s time to go, walk or taxi 12–15 minutes to the train station.
- Departures: Brindisi Airport is ~35–40 min by taxi; regional train to Brindisi town is 30–40 min, then short transfer to the airport shuttle. Bari Airport is ~1h40–2h by train (with a change) or ~2h by car, depending on traffic. Check schedules on Omio Trains or Omio Buses.
Evening (if you add a third night): Aperitivo at Quanto Basta or La Strada del Vino e Sapori (wine-focused), dinner at Alle due Corti or Osteria degli Spiriti, and a final sweet stop for nocciola gelato at Natale. Late stroll through the softly lit Piazza del Duomo is the perfect farewell.
Extra bites & sips to bookmark
- Caffè Alvino — Classic, bustling cafe for espresso, rustici, and people-watching under the loggia.
- Mamma Elvira Enoteca — Expertly curated Salento wines by the glass; pair with local cheeses, taralli, and lampascioni.
- Pizza&Co — Thin, flavorful slices; ideal for a quick, tasty lunch.
- Pescheria con Cottura — Choose your seafood at the counter; they’ll cook it to order (great for lunch).
Practical tips
- ZTL: The old town is a restricted traffic zone; confirm parking with your hotel or choose a stay just outside the walls.
- Siesta hours: Many shops close ~1–4 pm. Churches often enforce modest dress.
- Heat & hydration: Summer afternoons are hot—plan indoor sights mid‑day and carry water.
Optional immersive add‑on (if you arrive a day earlier):
Cooking class, dinner and wine tasting near Lecce

Join a local family in Corigliano d’Otranto (about 15 minutes from Lecce) for an evening of Pugliese recipes, stories, and wine—country hospitality at its best.
In just two days, Lecce delivers a full arc: Roman foundations, Baroque splendor, and living culinary traditions you can taste and make. You’ll leave with flour on your hands, stonework in your camera roll, and a fresh affection for Salento’s easy rhythm.

