Murter sits at the gateway to the Kornati archipelago, a maze of over 80 stone-sculpted islets once used for seasonal shepherding and now protected as a national park. The island’s roots run deep—Roman Colentum once stood on Gradina Hill—while nearby Betina still crafts wooden “gajeta” boats by hand, a tradition you can watch in action. Today, Murter draws adventurers with clear coves, island bike routes, sailing, and excellent access to national parks.

This 17-day itinerary keeps you mostly based on Murter, then adds Šibenik’s UNESCO history and Zadar’s Roman-meets-modern waterfront. You’ll swim Lojena’s blue lagoon, hike fortress lookouts, walk Krka’s waterfall boardwalks, and test the wind at Nin Lagoon for kitesurfing. Expect pebble and sand beaches, grilled Adriatic seafood, and sunsets that turn stone towns gold.

Practical notes: Croatia uses the euro; tap water is safe; bura and jugo winds can change conditions quickly, so pack a light jacket and reef shoes. Food runs from simple “marenda” lunches to Michelin-star dinners—think peka roasts, brudet stew, anchovies, and local Babić and Debit wines. Summer is busy; shoulder seasons (May–June, September–October) are ideal for hiking, cycling, and boat trips.

Murter

Base yourself on Murter for beaches, island cycling, and boat access to Kornati and Telašćica. The island connects to the mainland by a small drawbridge at Tisno, so no ferries are needed. You’ll split time between coves like Slanica, Podvrske, and Čigrađa, then wander stone lanes for evening seafood and gelato.

Days 1–5: Settle in, beach-hop, and explore Murter town

Ease in with a coastal loop: Slanica’s sandy shallows (great for SUP), the turquoise shelves of Podvrske for photos at golden hour, and rocky Čigrađa for cliff-jumping. Climb Raduč hill to WWII tunnels—bring a headlamp—for sweeping island-and-Kornati views.

Cycle the easy waterfront path to Betina to visit the wooden boat heritage quarter and watch “gajeta” repairs; the small museum explains how these stout craft shaped life on the archipelago. Continue south along olive groves to Kosirina Bay for a swim in crystalline water.

• Breakfast/Coffee: Grab warm burek or croissants from a local pekara (Croatia’s Mlinar bakeries are reliable) and espresso on the riva (harborfront) before beaches.
• Lunch: Casual grills at Slanica and Čigrađa serve fresh sardines, calamari, and ćevapi (€8–15). Great for a budget-friendly beach day.
• Dinner (seafood-forward): Konoba Boba (Murter) pairs line-caught fish, black cuttlefish risotto, and green-gold local olive oil in a leafy garden—reserve ahead. Tic Tac, by the marina, is a classic for octopus salad, scampi buzara, and daily grilled catch.

Unique activity: Arrange a sunset ride in a traditional wooden gajeta around Murter Bay; local skippers often include a stop for a swim and a glass of Debit (expect €25–40 pp, 1.5–2 hours).

Days 6–8: Kornati sailing, snorkeling, SUP and hidden coves

Join a full-day boat tour (9–10 hours) from Murter’s marina to Kornati National Park and Telašćica Nature Park (Dugi Otok). Typical routes include the white-pebble lagoon at Lojena (Levrnaka), cliffs of Telašćica, and a konoba lunch stop—group trips run roughly €60–90 pp including simple lunch.

On non-boat days, rent a kayak or SUP (roughly €10–15/hour; €30–40/day) to paddle coves between Hramina and Podvrske, or snorkel at Lovišća and Kosirina for sea stars and damselfish. Photographers should catch sunrise reflections of Betina’s boatyard and sunset from the rocks west of Podvrske.

• Easy hike: Gradina/Colentum ruins loop (1–2 hours) for Roman walls, saltpans, and views across Murter Bay.
• Dinner ideas: Restaurant Fabro for grilled fish and local steaks; ask a day in advance for “peka” (lamb/octopus slow-roasted under an iron lid).

Days 9–10: Island cycling, Vransko Lake birds, and Tisno bridge

Ride quiet lanes from Murter to Tisno (watch for the drawbridge opening—often mornings in summer). Stop in Jezera’s little harbor for coffee and a swim at nearby bays. Continue to Pirovac and on to Vransko Lake Nature Park (by car it’s ~30 min; by bike, plan a full-day loop). Entry ~€5–7; climb the Kamenjak viewpoint for a sweeping sea-lake panorama.

Back on Murter, find a protected cove if winds pick up and try a beginner windsurf lesson when conditions allow (seasonal schools set up on popular beaches in summer). For a splurge night, repeat Boba or try a fisherman’s platter at Tic Tac.

Where to stay (Murter): Browse apartments and small hotels near Hramina Marina and Slanica for easy beach access and marina pickups: Murter stays on VRBO | Murter stays on Hotels.com

Getting to Murter: Fly into Zadar (ZAD) or Split (SPU). Compare flights with Omio Flights. From either airport, rent a car or take a bus: Zadar Airport → Murter 1.5–2 hours; Split Airport → Murter ~2 hours. Intercity buses via Omio Buses cost about €8–14. Trains reach nearby hubs like Zadar/Šibenik via Omio Trains; Croatia’s coastal rail is limited. For island and coastal ferries elsewhere in Dalmatia, see Omio Ferries (Murter itself is bridge-connected).

Šibenik

Šibenik is the oldest native Croatian city, a labyrinth of stair-stepped lanes crowned by fortresses and anchored by the UNESCO-listed Cathedral of St. James, famed for its 71 sculpted heads. It’s a perfect base for Krka National Park and a taste of refined Dalmatian dining.

Days 11–12: Fortresses, old town, and Krka waterfalls

Start at the cathedral, then climb to St. Michael’s Fortress for Adriatic views; Barone Fortress has excellent interpretive exhibits and a café terrace. In the afternoon, ferry or bus to Jadrija beach for a swim beside colorful changing cabins and a sunset over the channel.

Next day, head to Krka National Park via Skradin (bus ~30–45 min; €5–7). Stroll the boardwalks at Skradinski Buk (no swimming here since 2021), then take the park boat to Visovac island monastery and on to Roški slap if time allows; park tickets vary by season (~€10–40).

• Breakfast/Coffee: Espresso and pastries at a central café off Poljana Square; grab a still-warm “krafna” (jam doughnut).
• Lunch: Konoba Nostalgija for slow-cooked pašticada or grilled Adriatic fish with chard and olive oil.
• Dinner: Pelegrini (Michelin-starred) for coastal-Dalmatian tasting menus overlooking the cathedral—book early; prix-fixe lunches are a value-friendly way to sample.
• Drinks: Azimut, a vaulted stone bar near the cathedral, curates live music, local wines, and craft beers.

Travel Murter → Šibenik: 35 km; 45–60 minutes by car. Buses run ~hourly (€5–8, ~1 hour) via Omio Buses.

Where to stay (Šibenik): Sleep inside the old town for ambience and easy walks to the fortresses: Šibenik stays on VRBO | Šibenik stays on Hotels.com

Zadar

Zadar layers a Roman forum and medieval churches with striking contemporary art: the wave-powered Sea Organ and the solar-powered Greeting to the Sun. It’s also your springboard to kitesurf-friendly Nin Lagoon and the limestone canyons of Paklenica National Park.

Days 13–15: Old-town highlights and Nin kitesurfing/windsurfing

Walk the marble lanes from the Roman Forum to St. Donatus church, then sit by the Sea Organ as the Adriatic “plays” its steps. Stay for sunset at the glowing “Sun Salutation” installation—an iconic photography spot.

Day-trip to Nin (bus 30–40 minutes; ~€4–5) for shallow, wind-swept Queen’s Beach. Local kite schools operate May–September with beginner sessions (~€90–120 for a 2-hour group lesson); winds are gentlest in the morning. Classic ocean-style surfing is rare in the Adriatic, but on strong jugo days you may find rideable wind swells along open beaches—ask locally about conditions.

• Breakfast/Coffee: Cakes and espresso at a café along Široka ulica (Kalelarga); pop into a pastry shop for fritule (tiny doughnuts) dusted in sugar.
• Lunch: Pet Bunara sources from inland farms; try octopus under the peka or handmade pasta.
• Dinner: Foša is fine-seafood in a historic port setting—think truffle-scented scampi and whole grilled dentex. Restaurant Kornat offers refined Mediterranean plates with marina views.
• Drinks: Watch the sunset with a glass of Pošip on the riva; afterwards, try a Maraschino liqueur, Zadar’s signature cherry spirit.

Days 16–17: Paklenica hiking or Dugi Otok day cruise; slow finale

Hit Paklenica National Park (bus or car 45–60 minutes to Starigrad; entry ~€10–20). Hike the Velika Paklenica canyon to forest huts or push to higher viewpoints; bring sun protection, sturdy shoes, and 2L of water per person.

Alternatively, join a day cruise from Zadar to Dugi Otok—Telašćica cliffs and Sakarun’s white sands are photogenic bookends. End your final evening with a last swim, a seafood risotto, and a promenade—Croatians call it a “đir”—past the Sea Organ’s harmonies.

Travel Šibenik → Zadar: ~90 km; 1.5–2 hours by bus (€10–14) via Omio Buses. Trains are limited; buses are faster on this route.

Where to stay (Zadar): Choose the Poluotok (old town) for history at your door, or the Borik area for beaches and parking: Zadar stays on VRBO | Zadar stays on Hotels.com

Departure

Fly out of Zadar (closest) or Split. Compare options on Omio Flights and ride a regional bus with Omio Buses to your airport. If you’ve rented a car, the coastal highway is scenic; allow extra time for summer traffic.

Adventure and budget tips (for a mid-range 50/100 budget)

• Boats: Group Kornati tours cost less than private charters; bring cash for park fees if not included.
• Bikes & SUP: Daily bike rentals ~€12–18; SUP/kayak ~€30–40/day. Early pickups mean calmer water and gentler winds.
• Eating smart: Target hearty marenda lunches (noon–3 pm) for value, and reserve splurge dinners (Pelegrini; Foša; Boba) on just a few nights.
• Safety: Rocky entries are common—reef shoes help. Winds (bura/jugo) can turn fast; heed boat crew advice and forecast boards at beaches and marinas.

Seventeen days in Northern Dalmatia give you the time to feel Murter’s rhythms, sail the Kornati, and still roam Šibenik’s fortresses and Zadar’s waterfront art. With beaches, hikes, cycling, and a wind-driven surf day in Nin, this is an adventurous, photography-rich circuit you’ll want to repeat.