Istanbul—ancient Constantinople—spans two continents and two millennia of power and poetry. You’ll trace Byzantine domes and Ottoman courtyards, sip Turkish coffee where caravans once paused, and watch the city violet at sunset as call to prayer rolls across the Bosphorus.

Across 17 days, this slow-travel itinerary balances bucket-list icons (Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi) with neighborhood life in Kadıköy, Balat, and Kuzguncuk, ferry days to the Princes’ Islands, and languid evenings in meyhanes. Expect rich Turkish breakfasts, baklava pilgrimages, and a restorative hamam ritual.

Practical notes: mosques require modest dress; scarves are available for purchase nearby. The Istanbulkart works on trams, ferries, metro, and buses. Taxis are plentiful (use metered cabs or an app), and ferries are the scenic way to cross continents. Museum opening hours vary seasonally—verify before you go.

Istanbul

Getting there and around

• Flights: Most European hubs to Istanbul (IST/SAW) are 3–4 hours; North America is 9–11 hours nonstop. Compare fares on Omio, Trip.com, or Kiwi.com. One-way Europe–Istanbul often runs ~$120–$250 with early booking; transatlantic economy typically ~$600–$1000.
• Airport into town: Allow 60–90 minutes from IST to Sultanahmet or Beyoğlu by Havaist coach or the M11 metro (connect to tram/metro). Metered taxis are convenient; traffic can be heavy at peak hours.
• Public transport: The tram (T1), metro, Marmaray, and ferries connect most sights; fares are inexpensive with an Istanbulkart. Ferries are frequent, reliable, and scenic—plan them as part of the fun.

Where to stay (choose one base and settle in)

• Sultanahmet for first-time visitors steps from Hagia Sophia and Topkapi; serene at night.
• Karaköy/Galata for cafes, galleries, and easy tram access to the Old City.
• Nişantaşı for upscale boutiques and leafy streets.
• Kadıköy–Moda on the Asian side for a local, food-forward vibe and great ferries.

Browse stays on VRBO Istanbul or Hotels.com Istanbul.

Days 1–4: Sultanahmet classics—Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi, and the old markets

Ease in with the Old City’s heavyweights clustered around Sultanahmet Square. Start with the Hippodrome obelisks, then the Blue Mosque’s Iznik tiles, and the subterranean Basilica Cistern with its echoing Medusa heads. Hagia Sophia’s vast dome tells 1,500 years of layered history—arrive early to avoid crowds.

Set aside a half day for the Topkapi Palace, including the jeweled Treasury and the Harem apartments (a separate ticket). Nearby, the Istanbul Archaeology Museums hold sarcophagi and cuneiform tablets that contextualize the empires under your feet.

• Guided essentials (time-saver): Istanbul: Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia & opt. Basilica Cistern Tour (3 hours, small group; skip lines and get clear context).

  

• Markets: The Grand Bazaar (leather, carpets, copper) and the Spice Bazaar (sumac, saffron, lokum). Go early, browse slowly, and ask for tea before bargaining.

Where to eat around the Old City:

• Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi for classic beef köfte, piyaz (bean salad), and semolina helva—fast, historic, satisfying.
• Pandeli above the Spice Bazaar for blue-tiled grandeur and Ottoman recipes like hünkar beğendi (smoky eggplant purée) and lamb.
• Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebap near Sirkeci for vertical-spit lamb sliced onto skewers—an Anatolian specialty.
• Coffee/dessert: Hafız Mustafa 1864 for pistachio baklava and kaymak; Mandabatmaz (a short tram ride away) for supremely thick Turkish coffee.

Days 5–7: Karaköy, Galata, and Beyoğlu—art, towers, meyhanes, and a two-continents food tour

Cross the Galata Bridge into Karaköy’s lively lanes. Visit the waterfront Istanbul Modern (new building by Renzo Piano) and climb the Galata Tower for 360° views. Stroll up Istiklal Avenue to the Pera Museum and the arcaded Çiçek Pasajı.

Evenings here are for meyhane culture—small plates (meze), raki, and conversation. Book a table, pace yourself, and finish with warm helva.

• Signature experience: Istanbul Taste of Two Continents Food Tour - Spice Market & Ferry (a delicious day that starts in the Old City, sails to Kadıköy, and maps the city through flavors).

  

• Breakfast: Namlı Gurme Karaköy for a customizable Turkish breakfast board; Privato Café near Galata for homemade jams and eggs menemen.
• Lunch: Karaköy Lokantası (midday for easier tables) serving seasonal meze and Şevketibostan (Aegean artichoke thistle) when in season.
• Dinner meyhane: Asmalı Cavit for a quintessential spread—atom (spicy yogurt), lakerda (cured bonito), grilled octopus, then köfte.
• Baklava/coffee: Karaköy Güllüoğlu for fıstıklı şöbiyet; Kronotrop Galata or Geyik in Cihangir for third-wave coffee (Geyik turns into a cocktail bar at night).

Days 8–10: Asian-side immersion—Kadıköy–Moda, Üsküdar, Kuzguncuk, and a Princes’ Islands day

Ferry to Kadıköy for market culture: olives, pickles, fresh fish, and spice shops. Wander to Moda for seaside promenades and sunset on the rocks with tea in paper cups.

In Üsküdar, stroll the waterfront mosques and consider a boat to the restored Maiden’s Tower. Nearby Kuzguncuk charms with wooden mansions and artful cafes under plane trees.

• Food crawl: Çiya Sofrası for regional Anatolian dishes you won’t find elsewhere (try the stuffed quince in winter or lavaş kebab). Dessert at Baylan Pastanesi (Kadıköy classic; order the 1954-era “Kup Griye”). Ice cream at Ali Usta in Moda.
• Tea with a view: Çınaraltı Çay Bahçesi (Üsküdar) for simit and Bosphorus breezes.
• Princes’ Islands day trip: Sail to Büyükada. Rent a bike or hop the electric island buses to monasteries and pine groves, then lunch at Milto for grilled sea bream and meze. Return on a golden-hour ferry.
• Coffee stops: Montag Coffee Roasters, Story, or Rafine in Moda.

Days 11–13: Bosphorus day—palaces, villages, and a sunset yacht

Start at Dolmabahçe Palace with its crystal staircase and lakeside gardens, then graze Beşiktaş’s breakfast lane. Continue up the strait: Ortaköy (mosque and kumpir stands), Arnavutköy (ornate wooden houses), Bebek (shoreline stroll), and the hilltop battlements of Rumeli Fortress.

North of here, Emirgan Park blooms in spring; the nearby Sakıp Sabancı Museum rotates strong art exhibits with Bosphorus café views.

• Unmissable on-water view: Bosphorus Sunset Yacht Experience: Istanbul’s Best (golden-hour glide past palaces and fortresses; a serene way to read the city’s skyline).

  

• Breakfast: Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu (Beşiktaş) for su böreği and clotted cream with honey.
• Lunch: Bodrum Mantı & Cafe (Arnavutköy) for tiny buttery mantı dumplings.
• Sweet treats: Mini Dondurma (Bebek) for dense, elastic ice cream; Bebek Kahve for a classic waterside break.

Days 14–15: Hamam ritual, artisan shopping, and the museum mile

Revisit the Old City with fresh eyes: the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts (calligraphy and carpets), Arasta Bazaar for ceramics and textiles, and Suleymaniye’s terraces for one of the city’s best skyline views.

Build in restoration time in a historic bath—steam, scrub, foam, and mint tea afterward. You’ll emerge brand-new.

• Traditional bath experience (private options): Private Turkish Bath Tradition, Massages, Swimming Pool & Sauna.

  

• Shopping intel: In the Grand Bazaar, look for hand-loomed peshtemals (towels), copper coffee sets, and contemporary ceramics; ask for authentic vs. souvenir quality and expect to bargain politely.
• Eat & drink nearby: Giritli (Sultanahmet) for Aegean meze and grilled seafood in a garden setting; Zübeyir Ocakbaşı (near Taksim) for kebabs grilled over open coals right at the bar.
• Coffee/dessert: Petra Roasting Co. (Gayrettepe or Topağacı) for single-origin pours; Hafız Mustafa 1864 or Şirin Fırın for sütlaç and revani.

Days 16–17: Balat, Fener, Eyüp, and a grand finale

Wander the colorwashed streets of Balat and Fener—photogenic stoops, design shops, and the red-brick Greek Orthodox High School. Continue to Eyüp Sultan Mosque and ride the cable car to Pierre Loti Hill for tea over the Golden Horn.

If schedules permit, peek at the Chora (Kariye) area—its famed mosaics have periodic access as the building functions as a mosque; check the latest on-site.

• Capstone guided option (flexible overview day): Best of Istanbul 1, 2 or 3-Day Private Guided Istanbul Tour (customizable; excellent if you love depth or want to revisit highlights efficiently).

  

• Final dinner: Neolokal (SALT Galata) for Anatolian heritage cuisine seen through a modern lens; or TURK Fatih Tutak for a celebratory tasting menu that reimagines Turkish flavors.
• Nightcaps with a view: 16 Roof (Swissôtel) for skyline cocktails or Alexandra Cocktail Bar in Arnavutköy for Bosphorus lights.

Coffee, breakfast, lunch, dinner—extra favorites to slot anywhere

• Breakfast culture: Van Kahvaltı Evi (Cihangir) for a Kurdish-influenced spread; Emirgan Sütiş (multiple) for bal-kaymak and simit baskets.
• Quick, delicious lunches: Dürümzade (grilled Adana in lavash, smoky and perfect); Hocapaşa Pidecisi for Black Sea-style pide.
• Seafood feasts: Balıkçı Sabahattin (Old City) for classic meze and whole grilled fish; waterfront tables in Arnavutköy for blue hour.
• Sweet stops: Karaköy Güllüoğlu (pistachio havuç dilimi), Baylan (Kup Griye), and neighborhood muhallebici shops for rice puddings.

Optional extras and tips

• Princes’ Islands timing: Go on weekdays for quieter lanes; pack a swimsuit in summer.
• Mosque visits: Shoulders and knees covered; bring or borrow a scarf.
• Money matters: Cards widely accepted; keep some lira for taxis, tea gardens, and small vendors.
• Ferries: Treat them like mini-cruises—sit outside and watch palaces drift by.

Useful transport links: Compare and book flights/trains as needed on Omio (flights to/from Europe), Omio (trains in Europe), Omio (buses in Europe), Omio (ferries in Europe), Trip.com (trains), Trip.com (flights), and Kiwi.com (flights).

Over 17 days, you’ll see both the postcard Istanbul and its lived-in layers: steaming tea glasses, ferry horns, and the rhythm of neighborhoods. Take your time—this is a city that rewards lingering, second breakfasts, and one more sunset on the water.