15 Days in Trivandrum: Beaches, Backwaters, Temples, and Flavors of Kerala
Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram), Kerala’s capital, has been a gateway to the Arabian Sea for centuries. Once the seat of the Travancore kingdom, it blends sacred art, sandalwood-scented lanes, and a proud temple tradition with an easy coastal rhythm. Sit with a plate of fish curry scented with kokum and curry leaves and you can taste the monsoon-fed backwaters and spice histories in one bite.
Beyond the city’s ornate gopurams and museum halls, coves of golden sand unfurl at Kovalam, and quiet waterways drift through Poovar’s mangroves. A little further, Varkala’s laterite cliff drops to a turquoise beach, Alleppey’s houseboats glide past rice fields, and Kanyakumari offers sunrise where three seas meet. This 15-day itinerary lets you savor them at an unhurried pace.
Plan for warm, humid weather most of the year (best November–February). At Padmanabhaswamy Temple, follow the strict dress code (men: mundu/dhoti; women: sari or traditional salwar; no trousers or western tops inside), and expect morning/evening darshan timings. Kerala’s cuisine—sadya on banana leaf, appam and stew, Malabar biryani, parotta with peppery gravies—is a highlight; we’ve included local favorites and coffee stops throughout.
Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram)
Why go: An elegant capital with living temples, a storied palace, world-class museums, and easy access to Kerala’s most scenic coastline and backwaters. It’s ideal for travelers who want both cultural depth and beach time.
How to get there: Fly into Trivandrum International Airport (TRV). From major Indian hubs, flights are ~2–3.5 hours (Mumbai/Delhi/Bengaluru), and from the Gulf ~4–5 hours. Search and book flights on Trip.com or Kiwi.com (typical domestic fares $70–$200; regional international $150–$450). If arriving by rail, check schedules on Trip.com Trains (Kochi to Trivandrum ~4–5 hours; Chennai ~15–16 hours overnight).
Where to stay: For a cliffside resort overlooking the Arabian Sea, consider The Leela Kovalam, A Raviz Hotel (stunning sea decks; excellent for sunsets). For mid-range comfort in town, Uday Suites is a reliable, greenery-framed option near the airport. Budget travelers like Treebo Trend Adrak for clean rooms in a central area. Or browse apartments and villas on VRBO Trivandrum and a wide range of hotels on Hotels.com Trivandrum.
Days 1–3: Temples, Palaces, Museums, and Markets
Begin in the sacred heart of the city at Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. Its golden, tiered gopuram glows at sunrise and the sanctum houses Lord Vishnu reclining on Ananta. Observe dress code and deposit phones before entry. Adjacent, tour the Kuthiramalika (Puthen Malika) Palace Museum, a teak-and-rosewood marvel carved with 122 horses.
Spend a morning at the Napier Museum (Indo-Saracenic architecture, bronze icons, Kerala art) and the lush Thiruvananthapuram Zoo, among India’s oldest. Stroll Kanakakunnu Palace lawns at dusk and, if timing allows, catch a classical dance performance at the nearby amphitheaters.
For a sensory plunge, wander the narrow lanes of Chalai Bazaar: pyramids of bananas, piles of turmeric, temple garlands, and brass utensils. It’s the city’s beating commercial heart—and a great place to watch daily life.
- Featured activity (Day 2): Trivandrum & Kovalam Highlights: Private Day Tour — A guide-led deep dive that typically covers Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Kuthiramalika, Napier Museum, and beach time in Kovalam. Ideal early in the trip to get context and routes.
Trivandrum & Kovalam Highlights: Private Day Tour on Viator
- Coffee & breakfast: Indian Coffee House (Palayam) for dosa, masala omelets, and iconic filter coffee in the spiral building; Mother’s Veg Plaza for a mini-sadya breakfast; Vimala’s (simple, local) for fluffy appam with vegetable stew.
- Lunch: Arya Nivas (pure veg thali and ghee roast dosas), Azad Restaurant (Palayam) for Kerala biryani and grilled Arabian plates, Sree Arul Jyothi for sambar rice and meals served on banana leaf.
- Dinner: Villa Maya (18th-century Dutch manor; Kerala classics like mappas and meen pollichathu with candlelit courtyards), Zam Zam (Shawarma, alfaham, and juices; beloved by locals), Curry Chatty (karimeen fry, prawn roast, and peppery Kerala gravies).
Days 4–6: Kovalam Beaches and Poovar Backwaters
Move south for beach time at Kovalam. Lighthouse Beach is the liveliest (you can climb the red-and-white lighthouse for sweeping views), Hawa Beach offers a gentler promenade, and Samudra Beach is quieter with fishing activity at dawn. Swim in mornings when seas are calmer; rent sunbeds and try a beginner surf lesson.
Set aside a half-day for Poovar, where the Neyyar River meets the sea. Take a backwater boat through mangroves to the transient sandbar beach—watch for kingfishers and brahminy kites. Late afternoon light makes the foliage glow.
Consider an Ayurveda consultation and massage at a reputable spa (resort clinics around Kovalam are reliable). It’s restorative after dusty market walks and sun.
- Sea-view eats: Bait at The Leela Kovalam (line-caught seafood, tandoor prawns; dramatic surf below), The Tides (global menu with Kerala touches), and Anitha’s Bistro & Café for fresh juices, tuna steaks, and veg/vegan plates.
- Sunset drinks: Sky Bar at The Leela for golden-hour cocktails over the Arabian Sea (hotel bar access/policies apply).
Days 7–9: Varkala Cliff Day Trip and Paravur Backwaters
Take a day trip north to Varkala (by car ~1.5–2 hours; by train ~1–1.5 hours to Varkala Sivagiri, then a short auto-rickshaw to the cliff). Walk the laterite Varkala Cliff path between North and South Cliff, dip at Papanasam Beach, and browse indie boutiques and handicrafts.
Pair Varkala with kayaking in nearby Paravur Backwaters—a lesser-known, glassy lagoon fringed by palms and mangroves. It’s tranquil, photogenic, and feels far from the crowds.
- Featured activity (Day 8): Kayaking in Mangrove Forest of Paravur Backwaters near Varkala and Kollam — Sheltered waters, birdlife, and narrow mangrove channels; great for first-time paddlers. Morning or late-afternoon slots are most scenic.
Kayaking in Mangrove Forest of Paravur Backwaters near Varkala and Kollam on Viator
- Coffee & bites (Varkala): Coffee Temple for espresso and smoothie bowls; Darjeeling Café for cliff views and momos; ABBA Restaurant & Bakery for Israeli plates, seafood, and baked goods.
- Back in Trivandrum for dinner: Kethel’s (Rahmaniya Hotel, East Fort)—the city’s cult-favorite peppery fried chicken served on banana leaf with lime; Pathayam (if you want sattvic, oil-light meals).
Days 10–12: Alleppey Houseboat Overnight + Ponmudi Hills Option
Shift from surf to stillness with an overnight houseboat cruise in Alleppey (Alappuzha)—rice fields at water level, coconut palms reflected in the canals, and a sunset that turns the backwaters copper. It’s Kerala at its dreamiest. Trivandrum to Alleppey is ~3.5–4 hours by car; plan a morning departure.
- Featured activity (Days 10–11): Trivandrum Private Tour: Overnight Alleppey Backwaters Houseboat Cruise — Private deluxe houseboat with onboard Kerala meals (think karimeen, thoran, pachadi). Sunset on deck is unforgettable; mornings are for kingfishers and village life drifting by.
Trivandrum Private Tour: Overnight Alleppey Backwaters Houseboat Cruise on Viator
Back in Trivandrum, if you crave cooler air, take a day to the Ponmudi hill station (~2 hours each way). Curvy roads, tea-garden views, and short hikes like the route toward Meenmutty Waterfalls (check local conditions and guides) make for a refreshing change of pace.
- Meals: On the houseboat, savor homestyle Kerala dishes. Back in the city, try Hotel Buhari for Malabari gravies and porotta, or Hotel Arul Jyothi for reliable veg “meals” at lunch with 10+ side dishes.
Days 13–15: Kanyakumari and Padmanabhapuram Palace + Food & Souvenir Finale
Make a full-day trip to Kanyakumari, India’s southern tip (by car ~2.5–3 hours each way). Watch waves where the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and Indian Ocean meet; take the ferry to Vivekananda Rock Memorial if seas permit; catch a radiant sunset at the seafront promenade. En route, stop at the exquisite wooden Padmanabhapuram Palace—lacquered floors, airy courtyards, and craftsmanship that’s a masterclass in Kerala architecture.
- Featured activity (Day 13): Day trip to Kanyakumari beach and Padmanabhapuram palace — Streamlined transport and guiding between palace and the southern cape, so you can focus on the scenery and stories.
Day trip to Kanyakumari beach and Padmanabhapuram palace on Viator
Use your final day for last tastes and treasures. Browse Chalai Bazaar again for spices (black pepper, cardamom), banana chips, and brassware. If you enjoy textiles, visit big-name saree houses along MG Road for Kanchipuram and Kasavu selections.
- Food finale: Book a leisurely lunch sadya at Mother’s Veg Plaza (on banana leaf; go hungry). For a refined last supper, return to Villa Maya or try Terrace at The Leela for coastal views. Sweet finish: Supreme Upper Crust for pastries or a simple halwa shop near East Fort for traditional Kerala halwa.
Optional Add-On: Another Varkala Spin or a Guided City Food Walk
If you have extra energy, repeat a Varkala beach day or slot a guided city food walk to taste Trivandrum’s street staples—squid fry, pazham pori (banana fritters), kappa (tapioca) with fish curry, and more—before you fly home.
Local Logistics and Tips
- Getting around: Auto-rickshaws for short hops; app cabs for longer trips. For day trips, hire a driver through your hotel.
- Temple etiquette: Dress conservatively; remove shoes; photography is usually restricted inside sanctums.
- Beach safety: Heed lifeguards and flags; monsoon swells (June–September) can be strong.
- When to go: Peak: Nov–Feb. Shoulder: Mar–May (hotter, clear seas). Green and dramatic: Jun–Sep (monsoon showers).
Summary
Across 15 days, you’ll trace Kerala’s soul: from Padmanabhaswamy Temple’s sanctity to Kovalam’s gold-sand curve, Poovar’s mangroves, Varkala’s cliff, Alleppey’s mirror-still canals, and Kanyakumari’s horizon where three seas meet. With markets, coffee, and spices in between, Trivandrum becomes less a stop and more a state of mind you’ll carry home.