14 Days in Serbia, Croatia & Montenegro: A Family-Friendly Balkans Itinerary with Islands, Vegan Eats, and Blue Waters
The Western Balkans reward curious families with storybook fortresses, warm Adriatic beaches, and living history at every turn. In two weeks you’ll trace rivers and coastlines from Belgrade’s Danube confluence to Split’s Roman heart and Kotor’s glassy bay, with island days, mountain vistas, and seaside promenades in between.
Serbia’s capital has long sat at a crossroads of empires—Ottoman, Habsburg, and Yugoslav legacies are layered into its fortresses and markets. Croatia’s Split slips you inside Emperor Diocletian’s 1,700-year-old palace before launching you to kid-approved beaches and islands. Montenegro’s Boka Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site, cradles medieval towns and caves as blue as ink.
Practical notes: Croatia and Montenegro use the euro; Serbia uses the Serbian dinar (RSD). Buses are reliable and cost-effective; ferries and catamarans connect Croatian islands in season. For families, late dinners are normal on the coast; pack reef-safe sunscreen and water shoes for pebbly beaches. Vegan options are growing across the region—ask for “veganski” or “posno” (Serbia) and “veganski” (Croatia/Montenegro).
Belgrade
Days 1–4: Belgrade’s Fortress, River Life, and Day Trips
Start in Serbia’s lively capital, where the Sava meets the Danube below the ramparts of Kalemegdan Fortress. Wander Knez Mihailova pedestrian street into the Old Citadel, then peek into the Roman Well and climb the Victor Monument for sunset river views.
- Family time on the water: Rent bikes or a 4-person pedal car at Ada Ciganlija, a lake-island with lifeguarded swimming areas, ropes parks, kayaking, and budget-friendly lakeside grills (ask for grilled veggies, Serbian shopska salad without cheese, and corn on the cob).
- Local neighborhoods: In Zemun, climb the Gardoš Tower for Danube panoramas and stroll the cobbled streets to river rafts (splavovi) serving lemonade and fresh fruit plates; it’s relaxed and kid-friendly by day.
- Nature and “animal” experiences: Take a gentle kayak or eco-boat around Great War Island for birdwatching (herons, cormorants), or day-trip to the Zasavica Special Nature Reserve near Sremska Mitrovica (about 1.5 hours by car) for boat rides through wetlands and a look at Balkan donkey breeds; choose tours that stress responsible wildlife viewing.
- Culture fixes: The Museum of Yugoslavia and House of Flowers offer accessible history; the Nikola Tesla Museum delights kids with hands-on electricity demonstrations.
Coffee & breakfast: Kafeterija (multiple locations) for strong espresso and plant milks; Le Petit Bistro Dorćol for pastries and fruit. Lunch: Ambar on the Sava serves modern Balkan meze—ask for the plant-forward tasting (roasted peppers, ajvar, bean salad). Dinner: Radost Fina Kuhinjica near Kalemegdan is a beloved vegetarian venue (vegan desserts, tacos, seasonal soups). For a crowd-pleaser, Lorenzo & Kakalamba blends playful décor with plenty of vegetable dishes—call ahead for vegan adaptations.
Sweet treats: Mandarina Cake Shop offers fruit-forward cakes and sorbets; Hola Kitchen & Bar has smoothies and salads when you need a light reset.
Stay in the center (Stari Grad or Dorćol) for easy walks to the fortress and river. Browse family-sized apartments on VRBO Belgrade or mid-range hotels on Hotels.com Belgrade.
Getting to Belgrade: Fly into BEG (Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport). Compare options on Omio Flights (Europe). If coming overland, Budapest–Belgrade trains take ~7–8 hours (~$30–$60) on Omio Trains, and regional buses from Zagreb or Sarajevo are ~6–8 hours (~$25–$45) via Omio Buses.
Split
Day 5 (AM Travel) + Days 5–10: Roman Palaces, Beaches, and Island Days
Morning departure from Belgrade to Split. Fastest is a 1–1.5 hour flight (~$60–$120 in advance) via Omio Flights. Budget alternative: an overnight bus (9–10 hours, ~$40–$60) on Omio Buses. Trains require a Zagreb connection (11–13 hours, ~$40–$70) via Omio Trains.
Split’s old town literally lives inside a Roman emperor’s seaside palace. Let kids “time-travel” in Diocletian’s Palace cellars, then wander to the Peristyle and Cathedral belltower for a sea-to-mountain panorama. Evenings are for strolling the palm-lined Riva with gelato in hand.
- Beaches: Bačvice (shallow, sandy, great for toddlers and the local picigin ball game), Kaštelet and Kašjuni (pebble coves under pine-shaded Marjan Hill), and family-friendly Žnjan with playgrounds and beach clubs.
- Marjan Park: Hike or e-bike past chapels and viewpoints; picnic under pines with market finds (olives, figs, tomatoes, and fresh bread).
- Island days (choose 2–3): - Brač (Bol’s Zlatni Rat): an hour by catamaran from Split (~€9–€20 each way off-peak; more in summer). Clear water, gentle gradients, windsurf and SUP rentals. - Hvar town + Pakleni Islands: 1–2 hours by passenger catamaran (~€20–€45 each way seasonal). Shady coves and flat rock platforms make easy swim entries; water taxis hop between islets. - Šolta (Maslinica): short, affordable ferry or fast catamaran. Visit a family honey farm for a beekeeping talk and tasting; book locally in Split or on arrival. - Blue Lagoon (Krknjaši): half-day boat trips to turquoise shallows near Drvenik Veli are a hit with kids who love snorkeling.
- Culture bites: Klis Fortress (Game of Thrones filming site) overlooks Split; combine with the nearby olive museum or a family-run olive mill for a tasting.
Foodie stops (strong vegan options): Kat’s Kitchen Deli (bowls, raw cakes, smoothies), Pandora GreenBox (creative plant-forward plates in a garden courtyard), Marta’s Veggie Fusion (wraps, curries, daily vegan desserts), and Fig Split (global flavors with vegan choices). For a special night, Bokeria Kitchen & Wine highlights Dalmatian produce; ask for vegan risotto or grilled vegetable mains.
Coffee & sweets: D16 Coffee for specialty brews, Luka Ice Cream & Cakes for seasonal gelato (find dairy-free sorbets). Markets: The Green Market (Pazar) and the Peškarija fish market are a cultural experience—pick up fruit for beach days.
Stay close to the palace or Marjan for easy beach access. See apartments and family stays on VRBO Split or mid-range hotels on Hotels.com Split.
Ferries and catamarans: Check seasonal routes and tickets on Omio Ferries (popular lines include Jadrolinija and Krilo). In summer, book a few days ahead for island day trips.
Kotor
Day 11 (AM Travel) + Days 11–14: Kotor Bay, Blue Caves, and Mountain Vistas
Travel from Split to Kotor in the morning. Direct buses take ~6.5–8 hours (~$30–$45) via Omio Buses. In summer, a Split–Dubrovnik catamaran (~4.5 hours, €45–€65) plus bus to Kotor (2–3 hours, €15–€25) can be scenic; see Omio Ferries for schedules. Border checks may add time; carry passports handy.
Kotor sits at the curve of Boka Bay, ringed by limestone peaks that tumble straight into glassy water. Inside the UNESCO-listed walls, alleys lead to sunlit squares, bell towers, and friendly feline residents (the tiny Cat Museum delights kids). For a big family memory, hike the old town walls to the San Giovanni Fortress—pace yourselves and bring water; the reward is a fjord-like panorama.
- Perast & Our Lady of the Rocks: A storybook baroque town and a tiny islet with a votive church—combine with a bay cruise for easy family sightseeing.
- Swim spots: Bajova Kula (pebble cove with ladder access and shade), small waterfront pontoons in Dobrota, and Orahovac’s gentle shallows.
- Day trip ideas: Lovćen National Park for panoramic viewpoints and traditional mountain villages; Porto Montenegro in Tivat for flat stroller-friendly promenades and playground time.
Handpicked activities (great for families):
Blue water adventure with swims and an island stop:
From Kotor: Boat to Blue Cave & Lady of the Rocks &Submarine Base

Why it’s great: A compact loop that mixes gentle cruising with optional swims in neon-blue water—bring reef-safe sunscreen and floaties for younger kids.
Scenic cable car + culture combo:
Kotor-Cable Car - Perast- Lady of the Rocks

Why it’s great: Aerial views wow the whole family; the quick island visit keeps attention spans happy. Ask in advance for any needed vegan-friendly snack stops.
Nature day into the mountains (waterfalls, canyons, viewpoints):
North Montenegro, Durmitor, Tara & Ostrog Tour

Why it’s great: Pair dramatic scenery with light walks; watch for birds of prey and mountain fauna from safe viewpoints.
Get your bearings inside the walls:

Why it’s great: A short, engaging introduction with legends, history, and tips for quieter squares and shaded breaks.
Food & coffee (vegan-friendly notes): Ladovina Kitchen & Wine Bar in Dobrota has leafy outdoor seating and can prepare vegan pasta/risotto on request; Astoria Restaurant (inside Hotel Astoria) offers plant-forward salads and grilled veggies; Cesarica is seafood-forward but flexible with sides and stews; Forza pastries has fruit pies and sorbets. Coffee/snacks: MonCafe and Caffe Pizzeria Pronto for quick bites; look for fresh fig or watermelon plates at kiosks.
Where to stay: Sleep inside the walls for atmosphere or along Dobrota’s waterfront for calm swims at your doorstep. Explore family apartments on VRBO Kotor or check mid-range hotels on Hotels.com Kotor.
Departures: Nearby airports are Tivat (TIV, 15–20 min), Podgorica (TGD, ~1.5 hours), and Dubrovnik (DBV, ~2 hours + border). Compare on Omio Flights and use Omio Buses for transfers.
Suggested Multi-Day Flow (At-a-Glance)
- Days 1–2 (Belgrade): Kalemegdan Fortress, Knez Mihailova, Sava riverfront; Ada Ciganlija biking and swimming.
- Day 3 (Belgrade): Zemun & Gardoš Tower, Great War Island eco-cruise or kayak; Tesla Museum.
- Day 4 (Belgrade day trip): Zasavica Nature Reserve or Novi Sad & Petrovaradin Fortress.
- Day 5 (AM travel to Split): Settle in; evening Riva stroll and palace cellars.
- Day 6 (Split): Marjan Park viewpoints; Kašjuni beach afternoon.
- Day 7 (Island): Brač (Zlatni Rat) with SUP rental; picnic.
- Day 8 (Split): Diocletian’s Palace belltower; Green Market tasting; late swim at Žnjan.
- Day 9 (Island): Hvar town + Pakleni coves or Blue Lagoon snorkel.
- Day 10 (Island/local): Šolta honey farm visit or Klis Fortress + beach.
- Day 11 (AM travel to Kotor): Sunset on the walls.
- Day 12 (Kotor): Old Town walk; Perast & Our Lady of the Rocks boat ride.
- Day 13 (Kotor): Blue Cave speedboat tour; afternoon swim at Bajova Kula.
- Day 14 (Kotor region): Lovćen NP viewpoints or Tivat promenade; departure.
Budget notes (target ~50/100): Prioritize apartments with kitchens, take advantage of markets for breakfasts and beach picnics, book buses early, and choose 2–3 paid boat/excursion days balanced with free hikes, fortresses, and beaches. Expect average daily costs (per adult) of ~$80–$140 depending on activities and season; kids often ride buses/ferries at reduced fares.
This 14-day route threads together fortress towns, island swims, and mountain lookouts—plenty of space for kids to explore and adults to exhale. With thoughtful food stops and a few unforgettable boat days, you’ll leave with sandy shoes, camera-roll sunsets, and a deeper sense of the Balkans’ coastal rhythm.

