Puglia’s heel of Italy is a land of limestone caves, whitewashed villages, and Adriatic light. At its heart lies Castellana Grotte, a subterranean world discovered in 1938 whose galleries and stalactites have inspired generations of travelers. Around it are cliff-perched towns like Polignano a Mare, and inland the conical trulli of Alberobello lead you toward Lecce’s honey-colored baroque and the warm waters of the Salento.

Expect honest, produce-driven cuisine—orecchiette with turnip tops, burrata still cool from the dairy, grilled “bombette” pork morsels, and seafood pulled from tiny harbors that morning. Summer is festive (and hot), spring and fall are perfect for leisurely walks and winery visits, and winter is quiet with uncrowded museums and markets. Rental cars make rural detours easy, but trains and buses connect the main sights well.

Practical notes: towns often have ZTL (limited-traffic zones), so park on the edge and stroll in. Carry small bills for beach chairs and street snacks. For the caves, bring a light jacket and sturdy shoes—the underground stays cool. Book popular restaurants on weekends, and cave tours in peak season.

Polignano a Mare (Base for the Coast & Castellana Grotte)

Polignano a Mare is a balcony over the Adriatic: pale stone lanes, sea caves gnawed into cliffs, and the postcard cove of Lama Monachile under a Roman bridge. It’s also the hometown of singer Domenico Modugno (of “Volare”), whose statue surveys the sea where cliff divers soar each summer.

Make this your coastal base to explore nearby Monopoli’s harbor, and—most importantly—the otherworldly caverns of Castellana Grotte just inland.

How to arrive: Fly into Bari (BRI) or Brindisi (BDS). Compare flights on Omio. From Bari Centrale, trains to Polignano a Mare take ~30–40 minutes (3–7 EUR); from Brindisi ~40–55 minutes (4–9 EUR). Check timetables and tickets on Omio Trains or buses on Omio Buses.

Where to stay (central old town or near Lama Monachile): browse Polignano stays on VRBO or hotels on Hotels.com.

Days 1–4: The Adriatic Coast and the Caves of Castellana

• Polignano’s clifftop strolls: Start with Lama Monachile’s pebbly cove and the Terrazza Santo Stefano overlooks. Duck down staircases to wave-splashed platforms and watch locals cliff-jump at sunset.
• Castellana Grotte (half-day): Join a guided tour of the Grotte di Castellana (Percorso Completo ~3 km, ~2 hours; adult tickets commonly ~18–25 EUR). You’ll descend ~70 m into caverns dripping with calcite, culminating in the luminous Grotta Bianca. Wear closed shoes; photography rules change—ask your guide on the day. In summer, evening “speleonight” tours add drama.
• Monopoli old town: Wander the fishermen’s port, Charles V’s seafront castle, and pocket beaches like Cala Porta Vecchia. If seas are calm, take a small-boat cave cruise from the harbor to slip beneath Polignano’s cliffs (~35–50 EUR).
• Food & drink (Polignano/Monopoli):
  • Breakfast/coffee: Polignano’s cult spot Il Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella—order a caffè speciale (espresso with lemon zest and cream) or a granita in warm months.
  • Casual lunch: Pescaria in Polignano for seafood sandwiches—try the raw-tuna tartare bun or fried octopus with turnip greens; this place helped popularize Puglia’s street-seafood scene.
  • Seafood dinners: Da Tuccino (Polignano’s classic for crudo and whole grilled fish), or Antiche Mura for handmade pasta with clams. For a splurge-in-a-cave experience, the cliffside dining room at Grotta Palazzese is iconic (book well ahead, premium pricing).
  • Monopoli traditions: Osteria Perricci by the port (simple fisherman's fare—tiella rice-potato-mussels, octopus stew), and Il Guazzetto for scorpionfish or seafood guazzetto with toasted bread.
  • Castellana lunch: Between cave tours, aim for Il Caroseno in nearby Castellana Grotte for orecchiette with ragù, seasonal antipasti, and a solid Apulian wine list.

Getting around this block: Polignano ↔ Castellana Grotte by regional FSE train or bus is ~25–45 minutes (4–7 EUR) from Polignano’s stop to “Castellana Grotte.” Polignano ↔ Monopoli is 5–10 minutes by Trenitalia regional (2–4 EUR). Check Omio Trains / Omio Buses.

Alberobello & the Valle d’Itria

Alberobello’s trulli—white homes crowned with gray limestone cones—feel lifted from a folk tale. The Rione Monti district ripples with hundreds of cones, while quiet Aia Piccola shows how families still live beneath the domes.

Use Alberobello to roam the Valle d’Itria: Locorotondo’s perfect circle of lanes, Martina Franca’s rococo palazzi, and Cisternino’s “fornello pronto” butchers grilling meat to order.

How to transfer (morning): Polignano a Mare → Alberobello by FSE train/bus takes ~1h10–1h25 (4–7 EUR). Tickets via Omio Trains or Omio Buses. A taxi or private transfer is ~35–45 minutes.

Where to stay (sleep in a real trullo if possible): see trulli and countryside masserie on VRBO or hotels on Hotels.com.

Days 5–7: Trulli, hill towns, and countryside flavors

• Alberobello essentials: Visit the Trullo Sovrano (two-story trullo museum) to see historic interiors, then wander Rione Monti’s lanes at golden hour when day-trippers leave.
• Locorotondo & Martina Franca: In Locorotondo, white lanes frame vineyard views; sample the local crisp white DOC. Martina Franca’s jewel-box center showcases balconies and the Basilica di San Martino—great for an aperitivo in Piazza Roma.
• Cisternino grill night: Choose meats at a butcher like a local “fornello pronto”—ask for bombette (cheese-stuffed pork rolls), sausage with fennel, and lamb skewers; they’ll grill and bring to your table with salads and house wine.
• Hands-on tasting: Book an olive oil visit at a countryside masseria to learn about Puglia’s ancient olive mills and taste monocultivar oils; pair with a mozzarella or orecchiette class in the morning (many farms in the Valle d’Itria host small-group workshops).
• Where to eat (Alberobello):
  • Lunch: La Cantina for nonna-style antipasti, pureed fava with chicory, and house-made orecchiette.
  • Dinner: Trullo d’Oro (classic trattoria in a trullo, hearty Puglian mains) or Casa Nova il Ristorante (romantic vaulted rooms, seasonal tasting menus).
  • Vegetable-forward: Terra Madre highlights organic Pouilles produce—excellent if you want lighter plates after grill feasts.
  • Sweet stop: Try cartellate pastries and an almond granita at a central pasticceria.

Optional detour: Matera’s Sassi cave city is doable as a long day (about 1h40–2h by car; ~2.5–3.5h by bus/train combos via Bari). Its rock-hewn churches and cave dwellings pair naturally with Castellana’s underground landscapes.

Lecce & the Salento

Lecce, the “Florence of the South,” glows with baroque facades carved like lace—Basilica di Santa Croce, Piazza Duomo, and a Roman amphitheater right in the center. Paper-mâché artisans still shape saints and angels in tiny workshops.

From this base, fan out to Otranto’s mosaic-floored cathedral, Gallipoli’s island old town, and sandy coves on two seas—the Adriatic and Ionian.

How to transfer (morning): Alberobello → Lecce by train/bus combo typically 2h–2h45 (10–20 EUR) with changes (e.g., Monopoli/Bari or Brindisi). See options on Omio Trains or Omio Buses.

Where to stay (inside or just outside the old town): explore guesthouses and palazzi on VRBO or hotels on Hotels.com.

Days 8–11: Lecce, Otranto, Gallipoli, and Salento beaches

• Lecce in layers: Tour Santa Croce’s exuberant facade, the Duomo complex at dusk, and the Roman amphitheater off Piazza Sant’Oronzo. Pop into small ateliers to see cartapesta (papier-mâché) techniques that made Lecce famous.
• Otranto day: The 12th-century mosaic floor in Otranto’s cathedral is a storybook in stone—knights, animals, and a world tree. Swim at Baia dei Turchi or nearby Torre dell’Orso, and, if seas are calm, visit the tidal Grotta della Poesia pools.
• Gallipoli day: Cross the bridge to the island old town for the morning fish market, then laze at Punta della Suina or Baia Verde. Stay for a sunset aperitivo along the bastions.
• Food & drink (Lecce):
  • Breakfast: Pasticceria Natale for warm pasticciotti and almond milk coffee, or Caffè Alvino overlooking Piazza Sant’Oronzo.
  • Lunch: Doppiozero bakery-bistro—order frisella with tomatoes and capers, or a puccia sandwich stuffed with grilled vegetables.
  • Dinner: Le Zie Trattoria (home-style classics—meatballs in sauce, ciceri e tria), Osteria degli Spiriti (refined Pugliese plates), or seafood at Alex Ristorante.
  • Wine & cocktails: Mamma Elvira Enoteca to taste Negroamaro and Primitivo flights; finish at Quanto Basta, a renowned craft cocktail bar, for an amaro nightcap.

Heading out: From Lecce, trains to Brindisi Airport take ~35–45 minutes (6–10 EUR); to Bari Airport ~1h40–2h (12–20 EUR), with an easy change. Check Omio Trains. For flights, compare on Omio.

Trip pacing: Days 1–4 (Polignano a Mare + Castellana Grotte and Monopoli), Days 5–7 (Alberobello + Valle d’Itria towns), Days 8–11 (Lecce + Salento coast). Build in a slow midday break—Puglia shines at dusk when stones turn gold and the passeggiata begins.

In 11 days you’ll weave from the luminous underworld of Castellana Grotte to cliff towns, trulli lanes, and Lecce’s baroque stage. It’s a journey stitched together by sea breezes, olive groves, and meals you’ll talk about for years.