10 Days in Pernambuco, Brazil: Recife, Olinda, and Porto de Galinhas
Pernambuco is where Brazil’s northeast rhythm hits full stride—sugarcane barons and Dutch forts, frevo brass exploding at Carnival, and mangroves folding into warm, reef-protected seas. Its history spans the 16th century and beyond, from Olinda’s gilded convents to Recife’s Afro-Brazilian heartbeat along the Capibaribe River. You’ll taste it in bolo de rolo and cashew-fragrant seafood, and hear it in forró and maracatu that spill into the streets.
Base yourself in Recife for museums and markets, detour to Olinda for hand-painted tiles, puppet theaters, and hilltop sunsets, then finish with sand-between-your-toes days in Porto de Galinhas. This 10-day itinerary layers city culture and coastal escapes, right down to jangada rides over coral gardens and a classic “ponta a ponta” buggy dash between beaches.
Practical notes: the best beach weather runs roughly September–March (April–August is wetter). Heed shark warnings in Recife (swim only where locals say it’s safe; many enjoy Boa Viagem’s sands but stay inside the reef or skip ocean swims). Pack reef-safe sunscreen, book tidal activities at low tide, and come hungry for tapioca, carne de sol, and a chiller of local cachaça.
Recife
Recife is Pernambuco’s capital—rivers, bridges, and a bright culture scene. By day, wander Recife Antigo’s Marco Zero and two dazzling museums (Paço do Frevo and Cais do Sertão). By night, chase live music and cold caldinho on cobblestone corners facing a harbor breeze.
- Don’t-miss: Marco Zero, Paço do Frevo (music and dance heritage), Cais do Sertão (interactive homage to the sertão), Instituto Ricardo Brennand (world-class private collection), Boa Viagem Beach boardwalk.
- Good-to-know: Observe all posted signage about ocean swimming; locals often sunbathe at Boa Viagem but avoid deep water. Ride-hailing is ubiquitous and reliable.
Where to stay: Compare beachy apartments in Boa Viagem or historic pads near Recife Antigo on VRBO Recife and business-class hotels or beachfront stays on Hotels.com Recife.
How to get here: Fly into Recife (REC) from São Paulo or Rio (2.5–3 hours). Search fares on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. Airport to Boa Viagem is ~15–20 minutes by taxi/ride-hail (R$35–60).
Day 1: Arrival, Recife Antigo & Harbor Breeze
Afternoon: Land in Recife and check in. Shake off the flight with a gentle stroll through Recife Antigo—start at Marco Zero to orient yourself among colorful facades and sculptures.
Evening: Dinner in the old quarter. Try Camarada Camarão (seafood moquecas and grilled shrimp, lively vibe), Parraxaxá (regional classics in a rustic setting; perfect for sampling farofa, sun-dried beef, and pumpkin purée), or Entre Amigos Praia in Boa Viagem if you want goat “bode,” seafood, and ocean breezes. Nightcap: a caipirinha near the square and a quick peek at the lit-up harbor.
Day 2: Frevo, Sertão, and River Views
Morning: Breakfast at Casa dos Frios (iconic bolo de rolo with espresso) or a specialty flat white at Coffeetown Recife (Boa Viagem). Head to Paço do Frevo—learn steps, watch archives, and feel the pulse of Recife’s Carnival.
Afternoon: Cross to Cais do Sertão, a modern, sensory museum with Lampião-era lore, xote rhythms, and interactive exhibits. Late snack: a caldinho de sururu (mussel broth) from a waterfront kiosk; if time allows, take a short Capibaribe River boat loop for bridge views.
Evening: Dinner along Recife Antigo—order baked fish with Brazil-nut farofa or a shrimp escondidinho. For music, look for forró or maracatu sessions advertised locally on weekends.
Day 3: The Brennands & Boa Viagem
Morning: Taxi to the Instituto Ricardo Brennand (arms museum, Dutch Brazil paintings, and sculpture gardens). Continue to the nearby Oficina Brennand (ceramic atelier-museum amid tropical courtyards; check current opening hours).
Afternoon: Boa Viagem boardwalk for coconut water and beach snacks. Do as the locals do: enjoy the sand but avoid ocean swimming beyond the reef; stay well inside calm tide pools if conditions are safe.
Evening: Feast at Chica Pitanga (buffet por quilo with excellent salads and Northeastern mains) or return to Camarada Camarão for a shareable seafood platter. Gelato and a stroll to wrap up.
Day 4: Dutch Forts & Manatees on Ilha de Itamaracá
Morning: Day trip north (~1–1.5 hours by car). Start at Forte Orange (Dutch-era fort) and the nearby Coroa do Avião sandbank for beach time and bird-spotting. Breakfast en route at a roadside padaria (fresh pão francês and tapioca).
Afternoon: Visit Itamaracá’s manatee center (education-focused; schedule changes seasonally). Lunch at a beach shack—grilled fish with vinaigrette and cassava fries pairs well with a maracujá juice.
Evening: Return to Recife. Dinner back in Boa Viagem; try Entre Amigos Praia for goat roast or a seafood moqueca and a cold local craft beer (look for Debron Bier on menus).
Optional Rio stopover ideas (if your flight connects via Rio):
Half-Day Tour: Christ the Redeemer, Selarón & Sunset at Sugarloaf — fits a generous layover and hits the icons with transport and tickets.

Nature lover? Try the Jeep Adventure: Guided Tour through Tijuca Rain Forest for quick rainforest vistas without a long hike.

Olinda
Perched on a lush hillside, Olinda is a collage of baroque churches, tiled fountains, artists’ ateliers, and jaw-dropping views of Recife’s skyline across the water. During Carnival, giant puppets (bonecos) parade down pastel streets to frevo’s quickstep.
- Highlights: Alto da Sé overlook, Sé Cathedral, Convento de São Francisco, Mosteiro de São Bento (listen for chant), Museu do Mamulengo (puppet museum), and the artisan-filled Mercado da Ribeira.
- Flavors: Tapioca crêpes hot off the griddle at Alto da Sé, seafood with cashew sauces, and sugarcane-spiked caipirinhas as the sun dips orange over Recife.
Where to stay: Sleep in a colonial pousada with a garden and a breeze. Browse VRBO Olinda or compare boutique hotels on Hotels.com Olinda.
Getting there: Depart Recife in the morning; the ride is ~30–40 minutes by taxi/ride-hail (R$50–90). If you’re flying into Recife from elsewhere in Brazil that morning, check Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com for early arrivals.
Day 5: Move to Olinda, Churches & Sunset at Alto da Sé
Morning: Transfer from Recife to Olinda and settle in. Begin at the Sé Cathedral and the viewpoint at Alto da Sé—colorful rooftops, sea, and Recife’s silhouette.
Afternoon: Visit the Convento de São Francisco (baroque azulejos) and stroll cobblestones to Museu do Mamulengo (playful peek at puppet traditions). Browse crafts at Mercado da Ribeira.
Evening: Dinner at Oficina do Sabor (regional hits: jerimum prawns, cashew-fragrant moquecas) or Beijupirá Olinda (tropical sauces, candlelit terraces). Post-dinner, sip at Bodega de Véio—old-school cachaça lines the walls and forró floats out the door.
Day 6: Art Crawl, Tapioca, and Monastery Music
Morning: Breakfast from the Alto da Sé tapioca stands (go for queijo coalho with butter or coconut-banana). Pop into local galleries—printmakers, painters, and woodcut artists abound.
Afternoon: Step inside the Mosteiro de São Bento; if you’re here on a Sunday, time your visit to hear the monks’ chant at Mass (schedule varies). Coffee break: order a café coado at a small bistro near the square and try a slice of bolo de rolo.
Evening: Casual dinner on the slope—petiscos (fried cassava, sun-dried beef croquettes) and a cold beer, or head back to Oficina do Sabor for a different moqueca. Early night; tomorrow you’ll head south to the beaches.
Porto de Galinhas (Ipojuca)
Porto de Galinhas is Pernambuco’s beach darling: village charm, reef-wrapped green water, and tidal pools that glow at low tide. A jangada (sail raft) ride lets you peer into fish-filled aquariums; a dune buggy rockets you between Muro Alto’s lagoon and the mangroves of Maracaípe.
- Top beaches: Muro Alto (calm lagoon, great for kids), Porto (natural pools), Cupe (watch currents), Maracaípe (surf), Pontal de Maracaípe (river-mouth sunsets, seahorses).
- Tide tip: Book pool and raft activities at low tide for crystal-clear visibility. Your pousada will post daily tide charts.
Where to stay: Find beachfront flats or family houses on VRBO Porto de Galinhas and compare resorts and pousadas on Hotels.com Porto de Galinhas.
Getting there: Morning departure from Olinda/Recife. It’s ~65 km, about 1–1.5 hours by private transfer or ride-hail (R$180–300 depending on vehicle/traffic). Ask your hotel to arrange a reputable driver.
Day 7: Transfer, Jangada to the Natural Pools, Village Stroll
Morning: Leave Olinda after breakfast, arriving in Porto by late morning. Check tide charts and book a jangada outing for the next low tide (R$50–70 per person).
Afternoon: Glide over coral gardens to the piscinas naturais. Bring reef-safe sunscreen and a mask; spot sergeant majors and parrotfish in bathtub-warm water.
Evening: Dinner at Barcaxeira (famous macaxeira gratin with shrimp, octopus, or sun-dried beef), Peixe na Telha (fish baked on a tile with queijo coalho), or Munganga Bistrô (beachfront bistro fare). Stroll Rua das Piscinas Naturais for handicrafts and live forró.
Day 8: Buggy “Ponta a Ponta” and Seahorses at Pontal
Morning: Classic buggy tour from Muro Alto → Cupe → Porto → Maracaípe. Swim in Muro Alto’s calm lagoon, then photo stops all along the coast. Expect R$300–450 per buggy (fits 4; negotiate and confirm route and duration).
Afternoon: At Pontal de Maracaípe, hop a small boat through mangroves to spot seahorses with local guides (short, conservation-focused). Late lunch back in town or toes-in-sand at a beach shack—grilled fish, vinaigrette, farofa, and ice-cold guaraná.
Evening: Try Beijupirá Porto de Galinhas (tropical-fruit sauces over fish), or keep it simple with tapiocas and açaí bowls on the square. Nightcap under string lights by the church.
Day 9: Day Trip to Praia dos Carneiros (Tamandaré)
Morning: Drive ~1 hour south to Praia dos Carneiros for white sand, palm arcades, and the postcard-perfect Igrejinha de São Benedito on the shore. Join a boat loop (R$80–120 per person) for sandbanks and clay-bath stops.
Afternoon: Day-use at a beach club—popular picks include simple chairs-and-umbrellas or larger venues with showers and restaurants. Order a whole fried fish to share and fresh caipirinhas.
Evening: Return to Porto de Galinhas. Dinner at La Tratoria (comfort Italian after a salty day) or a repeat at your favorite seafood spot. Gelato and a gentle promenade.
Day 10: Lazy Morning, Souvenirs, and Departure
Morning: Sleep in, then an easy beach walk. Pick up last souvenirs—lacework, woodcuts, and cachaça from Pernambuco’s interior.
Afternoon: Transfer back to Recife (1–1.5 hours) for your flight. Search flight options on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. If you’re extending elsewhere in Brazil, these will also surface multi-city deals.
Evening: Fly out of Recife. If you have a late departure, one last plate of bolo de rolo at the airport café is tradition.
Where to eat and drink across the trip (local favorites):
- Recife: Casa dos Frios (bolo de rolo and cheeses), Parraxaxá (regional buffet), Camarada Camarão (seafood), Chica Pitanga (per-kilo buffet), Entre Amigos Praia (goat and seafood), street caldinho stands.
- Olinda: Alto da Sé tapioca stands (order queijo coalho), Oficina do Sabor (creative regional), Beijupirá Olinda (tropical seafood), Bodega de Véio (cachaça and petiscos).
- Porto de Galinhas: Barcaxeira (macaxeira gratin), Peixe na Telha (tile-baked fish), Beijupirá Porto (tropical sauces), Munganga Bistrô (beachfront), La Tratoria (pasta), beach shacks at Muro Alto and Pontal.
Logistics & tips: Use ride-hailing for short hops; prebook private transfers for intercity moves. Carry a card and a bit of cash; most venues accept cards. Wear sandals with grip for Olinda’s cobblestones. For beaches, schedule pool/jangada activities around low tide. Always follow local guidance on safe-swim areas (especially around Recife and Cupe).
Summary: In 10 days, you’ll trace Pernambuco’s soul from Recife’s galleries and frevo floors to Olinda’s sun-washed hills, then unwind in Porto de Galinhas’ reef lagoons and mangroves. It’s culture and coastline in perfect sync—museum mornings, tapioca at noon, and a sunset buggy trail to end the day.