✦ Quick answer
Varanasi is India's holiest Hindu city, built along the ghats of the Ganges, and the unmissable experiences are a sunrise rowboat along the riverfront, the evening Ganga Aarti ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat, and getting lost in the old town's lanes. Base yourself near the ghats (Assi Ghat for a calmer scene, the Dashashwamedh area for the heart of the action). Eat your way through Banarasi street food, kachori sabzi, chaat, malaiyo, and a paan to finish, and set aside a half day for Sarnath, where the Buddha first taught.
Varanasi, also called Banaras or Kashi, claims to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, and it wears every one of those centuries on its sleeve. The city stacks up along the western bank of the Ganges in a crescent of stone steps (the ghats), where pilgrims bathe at dawn, bodies burn through the night, and the river holds it all without flinching. For Hindus it is the holiest of cities, the place where dying brings liberation.
This is not a polished, easy city, and that is exactly the point. The old town is a maze of lanes barely wider than a cow, scented with incense, marigolds, frying oil, and woodsmoke. You come to Varanasi to be moved, not pampered: to drift past the ghats in a rowboat at first light, to lose yourself in the alleys, and to stand in the crush of a flame-lit evening aarti.
Beyond the spiritual intensity there is silk weaving going back generations, classical music born in these neighborhoods, world-class street food, and Sarnath just up the road, where the Buddha gave his first sermon. Give it patience and a few days, and Varanasi rewards you like nowhere else.
Best time to visit
The best window is October to March, when days are pleasant (roughly 15-28C) and the riverfront is at its most atmospheric; November and December are peak. Dev Deepawali, fifteen days after Diwali (usually November), is the spectacular highlight, when the ghats are lit with hundreds of thousands of oil lamps, though crowds and prices spike. Avoid April to June, when temperatures regularly top 40C, and be aware that the July to September monsoon can flood the lower ghats and cancel boat rides. The Ganga Aarti happens every single evening year-round, regardless of season.
Getting around
Fly into Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS), about 25km northwest of the ghats; a prepaid taxi or app cab into town takes 45 to 75 minutes and runs roughly 700-1,000 rupees. Varanasi Junction (Cantt) and Banaras stations connect by overnight train to Delhi, Agra, Kolkata, and Lucknow. In the old city you walk, full stop, since cars and most autos cannot enter the lanes near the ghats. For longer hops use Uber, Ola, or a metered auto-rickshaw, agree the fare first, and brace for traffic; a cycle-rickshaw is fine for short distances. Boats are the loveliest way to see the riverfront.
✦ Where to stay
Neighborhoods & hotels
Assi Ghat (and Bhelupur)The southern end of the ghats, calmer and more open than the center, popular with students, yogis, and longer-stay travelers. Good cafes and a gentler evening aarti make it ideal for first-timers who want the riverfront without the densest crowds.
Dashashwamedh and GodowliaThe throbbing heart of Varanasi, steps from the main Ganga Aarti and Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Stay here to be in the thick of it, but expect noise, crowds, and lanes you navigate on foot; best for those who want maximum atmosphere.
Cantonment (Cantt)The orderly, leafy area near the train station and a few kilometers from the river, home to the larger full-service hotels. Suits travelers who prefer space, parking, and quiet, and do not mind a short ride to the ghats.
BrijRama Palace, Varanasiluxury Google
A restored 18th-century palace right on Darbhanga Ghat, reached by the hotel's own boat, with river-view rooms and one of the only genuinely grand stays directly on the water. Iconic location and service, with rates that reflect it; book well ahead for ghat-facing rooms.
Taj Ganges, Varanasimidrange Google
A reliable, comfortable full-service hotel set in gardens in the Cantonment area, with a pool, multiple restaurants, and easy airport access. A strong pick for families and anyone wanting modern comfort a short drive from the ghats.
Hotel Surya, Kaiser Palacemidrange Google
A longtime traveler favorite in Cantonment with a leafy garden courtyard, a good restaurant, and friendly service at fair prices. Excellent value mid-range base with a calm atmosphere away from the lane crush.
Stops Hostel Varanasibudget Google
A sociable, well-run hostel near the ghats with dorms and private rooms, a rooftop, and an easy crowd of solo and backpacker travelers. Great for budget stays and meeting people; book dorms ahead in peak season.
Zostel Varanasibudget Google
A dependable backpacker chain hostel with a rooftop overlooking the rooftops toward the river, clean dorms, and a social vibe. Good budget option for younger travelers wanting an easy walk to the ghats.
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✦ Top experiences
Top Things to Do in Varanasi
The essentials cluster around the river and the old town. Do these and you have the soul of the city.
Sunrise boat ride on the Ganges
The single most magical thing to do in Varanasi: glide along the ghats at first light as pilgrims bathe, priests perform sun salutations, and the stone steps glow gold. A shared hand-rowed boat costs roughly 100-200 rupees per person, a private rowboat around 500-800 rupees; motorboats are faster but less peaceful. Go at dawn, when the light and the activity peak.
Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat Google
Opening hours
- Monday: Open 24 hours
- Tuesday: Open 24 hours
- Wednesday: Open 24 hours
- Thursday: Open 24 hours
- Friday: Open 24 hours
- Saturday: Open 24 hours
- Sunday: Open 24 hours
Every evening at dusk, young priests in saffron perform a choreographed fire ritual to the river with brass lamps, bells, conch shells, and clouds of incense, drawing huge crowds. It is free to watch from the steps; arrive 45-60 minutes early for a good spot, or hire a boat to watch from the water. The ceremony runs roughly 45 minutes and is the city's defining spectacle.
Walking tour of the old city's hidden lanes
The galis (lanes) behind the ghats are a labyrinth of temples, silk shops, akharas, and tucked-away shrines that are nearly impossible to read on your own. A local guide unlocks the stories and keeps you from getting hopelessly lost. This highly rated small-group walk run by multi-generational Banaras families is one of the best ways to understand the city, from around $23.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 4:30 AM - 12:30 AM
- Tuesday: 4:30 AM - 12:30 AM
- Wednesday: 4:30 AM - 12:30 AM
- Thursday: 4:30 AM - 12:30 AM
- Friday: 4:30 AM - 12:30 AM
- Saturday: 4:30 AM - 12:30 AM
- Sunday: 4:30 AM - 12:30 AM
The most sacred Shiva temple in the city, topped with gold-plated spires donated by a Sikh maharaja, and the spiritual center of Varanasi. The recently built Vishwanath Corridor opened up grand access from the river. Expect long queues, tight security, and no phones or bags inside; non-Hindus are generally permitted but lines for the inner sanctum can be very long, so consider the early morning.
Full-day private tour with boat ride and rituals
If you have only one day, a private guide who handles the boat, temples, and old-town navigation makes it count. This well-reviewed full-day tour bundles a sunrise river ride with temples, ghats, and the alleyways from around $24. A relaxed, customizable way to cover the highlights without logistics stress.
Sunrise yoga session
Varanasi is a natural place to start a morning with breath and movement, and a private dawn yoga class on a quiet terrace pairs beautifully with the city's rhythm. This individual class suits both beginners and experienced practitioners and starts around $16. A calming counterpoint to the intensity of the ghats.
✦ Where to stay
Walking the Ghats
About 80 ghats line the river. Walking them end to end, ideally early morning, is the best free thing to do in Varanasi.
Dashashwamedh Ghat Google
Opening hours
- Monday: Open 24 hours
- Tuesday: Open 24 hours
- Wednesday: Open 24 hours
- Thursday: Open 24 hours
- Friday: Open 24 hours
- Saturday: Open 24 hours
- Sunday: Open 24 hours
The main and busiest ghat, host to the grand evening Ganga Aarti and a constant churn of pilgrims, priests, flower sellers, and boats. It is the natural center of gravity for any visit. Come at dawn for bathing rituals and at dusk for the ceremony.
Manikarnika Ghat Google
Opening hours
- Monday: Open 24 hours
- Tuesday: Open 24 hours
- Wednesday: Open 24 hours
- Thursday: Open 24 hours
- Friday: Open 24 hours
- Saturday: Open 24 hours
- Sunday: Open 24 hours
The main cremation ghat, where funeral pyres burn around the clock and the rituals of death play out in the open. It is intense and deeply sacred; observe quietly, do not photograph the cremations, and politely decline anyone demanding a 'donation' fee to watch. A profound, sobering window into how the city relates to death.
Assi Ghat Google
Opening hours
- Monday: Open 24 hours
- Tuesday: Open 24 hours
- Wednesday: Open 24 hours
- Thursday: Open 24 hours
- Friday: Open 24 hours
- Saturday: Open 24 hours
- Sunday: Open 24 hours
The southernmost main ghat, more spacious and relaxed, with its own smaller morning aarti (the Subah-e-Banaras) and a string of cafes nearby. A good place to sit with a chai and watch the river without the crush. Popular with students and long-stay travelers.
Man Mandir Ghat and the observatory Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM
- Tuesday: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM
- Wednesday: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM
- Thursday: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM
- Friday: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM
- Saturday: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM
- Sunday: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM
An elegant ghat anchored by a Rajput palace that houses the Man Mahal observatory, with stone astronomical instruments built in the 18th century. The carved balconies and river views are some of the prettiest on the riverfront. Quieter than the central ghats and worth the short detour.
✦ Eat & drink
Breakfast & Banarasi Street Food
Banaras eats breakfast standing up, off a leaf plate, in the lanes. These spots are institutions.
Kachori Gali Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 10:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Thursday: 10:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Friday: 10:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Saturday: 10:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Sunday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
A lane near the Vishwanath temple lined with stalls frying kachori (puffed, spiced lentil-stuffed bread) served with spicy potato sabzi and often jalebi on the side. A classic Banarasi breakfast for well under 100 rupees. Go early, before 10am, when it is freshest and busiest.
Ram Bhandar Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 7:30 - 11:00 AM, 2:30 - 6:00 PM
- Tuesday: 7:30 - 11:00 AM, 2:30 - 6:00 PM
- Wednesday: 7:30 - 11:00 AM, 2:30 - 6:00 PM
- Thursday: 7:30 - 11:00 AM, 2:30 - 5:30 PM
- Friday: 7:30 - 11:00 AM, 2:30 - 6:00 PM
- Saturday: 7:30 - 11:00 AM, 2:30 - 6:00 PM
- Sunday: 7:30 - 11:00 AM
A beloved old sweet-and-snack shop in Thatheri Bazaar famous for hot kachori-sabzi and Banarasi sweets. Reliable, always crowded, and very cheap. A good spot to taste the city's breakfast traditions in one stop.
Deena Chaat Bhandar Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 2:00 - 10:30 PM
- Tuesday: 2:00 - 10:30 PM
- Wednesday: 2:00 - 10:30 PM
- Thursday: 2:00 - 10:30 PM
- Friday: 2:00 - 10:30 PM
- Saturday: 2:00 - 10:30 PM
- Sunday: 2:00 - 10:30 PM
A legendary chaat counter near Dashashwamedh serving tamatar chaat, palak chaat, and the famous Banarasi tomato-and-potato mash topped with crispy bits. Plates run roughly 50-100 rupees. Often called the best chaat in the city; expect a scrum.
Blue Lassi Shop Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Tuesday: 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Wednesday: 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Thursday: 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Friday: 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Saturday: 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM
- Sunday: 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM
A tiny, decades-old lassi joint in the lanes near Manikarnika, walls plastered with traveler photos, serving thick clay-cup lassis topped with fruit, nuts, and saffron. Around 80-150 rupees a cup. Touristy but genuinely good, and a fine break from the alleys.
✦ Eat & drink
Where to Eat
Varanasi is largely vegetarian, and much of the city's food is meat-free by tradition. These sit-down spots span rooftop views to old favorites.
Kashi Chat Bhandar Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 3:00 - 10:30 PM
- Tuesday: 3:00 - 10:30 PM
- Wednesday: 3:00 - 10:30 PM
- Thursday: 3:00 - 10:30 PM
- Friday: 3:00 - 10:30 PM
- Saturday: 3:00 - 10:30 PM
- Sunday: 3:00 - 10:30 PM
A Godowlia institution for chaat, especially the tamatar chaat and golgappe (pani puri), served fast and fresh. Cheap, frantic, and beloved by locals. Come hungry and order a spread.
Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Tuesday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Wednesday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Thursday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Friday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Saturday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Sunday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
An Assi Ghat rooftop favorite serving surprisingly good wood-fired-style pizza and Italian dishes with a direct view of the river. Mains run roughly 250-450 rupees. The combination of decent Western food and a ghat-side terrace makes it a reliable traveler haunt.
Canton Royale (Hotel Surya) Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Tuesday: 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Wednesday: 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Thursday: 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Friday: 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Saturday: 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Sunday: 11:00 AM - 11:00 PM
A calm garden restaurant in the Cantonment serving multi-cuisine dishes, from Indian to continental, with a bar, ideal when you want a relaxed, comfortable meal away from the crowds. Mains around 350-600 rupees. Pleasant for dinner with a drink.
Baati Chokha Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 11:00 AM - 10:30 PM
- Tuesday: 11:00 AM - 10:30 PM
- Wednesday: 11:00 AM - 10:30 PM
- Thursday: 11:00 AM - 10:30 PM
- Friday: 11:00 AM - 10:30 PM
- Saturday: 11:00 AM - 10:30 PM
- Sunday: 11:00 AM - 10:30 PM
A rustic, themed restaurant serving the regional specialty litti-chokha (baked wheat balls with spiced mashed vegetables) plus hearty Eastern UP and Bihari fare. Affordable and authentic, with a village-style setting. A good place to try local home-style cooking.
✦ Eat & drink
Best Cafes & Coffee
Banaras runs on chai, but a handful of riverside cafes do proper coffee and a place to recharge.
Pilgrims Cafe & Bookstore Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 11:30 AM - 5:00 PM
- Tuesday: 11:30 AM - 5:00 PM
- Wednesday: 11:30 AM - 5:00 PM
- Thursday: 11:30 AM - 5:00 PM
- Friday: 11:30 AM - 5:00 PM
- Saturday: 11:30 AM - 5:00 PM
- Sunday: 11:30 AM - 5:00 PM
A mellow Assi Ghat cafe with espresso drinks, a bookshop, and a rooftop, popular with long-stay travelers and students. Coffees run roughly 100-200 rupees. A good spot to read, plan, and people-watch.
Open Hand Shop & Cafe Google
A bright fair-trade cafe and craft shop near Assi serving espresso, breakfast, and baked goods alongside ethically sourced textiles and crafts. Clean, calm, and good for a Western-style coffee fix. A pleasant browse-and-sip stop.
Mona Lisa Cafe & Bistro Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 7:00 AM - 4:00 PM
- Tuesday: 7:00 AM - 4:00 PM
- Wednesday: 7:00 AM - 4:00 PM
- Thursday: 7:00 AM - 4:00 PM
- Friday: 7:00 AM - 4:00 PM
- Saturday: 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM
- Sunday: 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM
A traveler-friendly cafe near the ghats with coffee, smoothies, and multi-cuisine food, handy for a leisurely sit-down with reliable wifi. Drinks around 120-250 rupees. Comfortable midday escape from the heat and crowds.
A roadside chai stall Google
No Varanasi morning is complete without kulhad chai, sweet milky tea served in a small clay cup you toss when done, from any stall near the ghats for 10-20 rupees. Look for the busiest stand and join the locals. The cheapest, most authentic caffeine in the city.
✦ Top experiences
Markets & Shopping
Banaras is famous for silk and brassware. Buy carefully and bargain hard.
Banarasi silk saris
Varanasi has woven gold-threaded brocade silk for centuries, and a genuine Banarasi sari is a heritage purchase. Buy from established showrooms or weaver cooperatives rather than touts in the lanes, and be wary of 'pure silk' claims at suspiciously low prices. Ask to see the weaving if you can; government emporiums offer fixed, fair pricing.
Vishwanath Gali
The bustling market lane leading toward the temple, packed with stalls selling brass idols, rudraksha beads, incense, bangles, and religious souvenirs. Great for browsing and small gifts. Bargain firmly and watch your pockets in the crush.
Thatheri Bazaar
The traditional brassware and metalware market, where you can watch and buy hand-beaten pots, lamps, and bells. Atmospheric and largely free of tourist markups. A good window into the old artisan economy of the city.
Banarasi paan
Finish a meal the local way with a paan, betel leaf folded around areca nut, rose preserve, and sweet fillings, sold at countless stalls for 20-50 rupees. Ask for a meetha (sweet) paan if you want the dessert version and skip the tobacco. A quintessential Banaras ritual.
✦ Beyond the city
Day Trips from Varanasi
One side trip is essential, and a couple more reward a longer stay.
Sarnath Google
About 10km from the ghats, Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon after enlightenment, marked by the towering Dhamek Stupa, monastery ruins, and an excellent archaeological museum holding the Ashokan lion capital that is India's national emblem. Half a day is plenty; it is calm, green, and a striking contrast to the city's intensity. A taxi or auto out and back is easy and cheap.
Ramnagar Fort Google
Opening hours
- Monday: 10:00 AM - 5:30 PM
- Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Thursday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Friday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Saturday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Sunday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
An 18th-century riverside fort across the Ganges, the ancestral home of the Maharaja of Banaras, with a faded museum of vintage cars, palanquins, weapons, and an astronomical clock. It is dusty and time-worn but atmospheric, and the river setting is lovely at sunset. Combine with a boat crossing for the full effect.
Banaras Hindu University and Bharat Kala Bhavan Google
Closed Sundays
Opening hours
- Monday: 10:30 AM - 4:30 PM
- Tuesday: 10:30 AM - 4:30 PM
- Wednesday: 10:30 AM - 4:30 PM
- Thursday: 10:30 AM - 4:30 PM
- Friday: 10:30 AM - 4:30 PM
- Saturday: 10:30 AM - 4:30 PM
- Sunday: Closed
One of Asia's largest residential universities, with a leafy campus, the modern New Vishwanath Temple, and the Bharat Kala Bhavan museum holding fine miniature paintings and sculpture. A peaceful, walkable green escape within the city. Good for a relaxed half day.
Full-day Sarnath and city tour with boat ride
To combine Sarnath with the ghats and a sunrise boat ride efficiently, a private guided tour with car handles the distances and timing. This full-day option covers Sarnath, the Dhamekh Stupa, and the riverfront from around $71. Convenient if you want to see a lot in one day without juggling rickshaws.
✦ Good to know
Before you visit
Getting aroundThe old city near the ghats is foot-only; cars and most autos cannot enter. Walk the lanes, take a boat along the river, and use Uber, Ola, or metered autos (fare agreed first) for longer trips. Cycle-rickshaws work for short hops.
MoneyCarry cash in small notes for street food, boats, offerings, and rickshaws, as many vendors do not take cards. ATMs are common in Cantonment and Godowlia. UPI apps are widely used but usually require an Indian bank account.
EtiquetteDress modestly, cover shoulders and knees at temples, and remove shoes before entering. Never photograph cremations at Manikarnika or Harishchandra ghats, and politely refuse anyone demanding a fee to watch them. Ask before photographing people at prayer.
SafetyVaranasi is generally safe but the lanes are crowded and disorienting, so watch for pickpockets and persistent touts, especially around the temple and main ghats. Solo women should dress conservatively and be firm with unwanted attention. Beware of 'guides' and 'priests' who attach themselves to you then demand payment.
HealthDo not drink tap water; stick to sealed bottled or filtered water, and the Ganges is heavily polluted, so avoid contact beyond your feet. Eat busy, freshly cooked street stalls and carry hand sanitizer and basic stomach medication.
LanguageHindi is the main language, with Bhojpuri widely spoken; English is understood at hotels, tourist sites, and by guides but less so in the lanes. A few words of Hindi go a long way with vendors and boatmen.
Power & SIMIndia uses 230V with Type C, D, and M plugs, so bring an adapter. Buy a prepaid tourist SIM (Airtel or Jio) on arrival at the airport with your passport and a photo for cheap, reliable data.
✦ Before you go
Plan-ahead checklist
Arrange a sunrise boat ride the evening before, either directly with a boatman at the ghats or through your hotel or a guide. a day ahead
Book a reputable local walking guide for the old-city lanes, which are nearly impossible to navigate or understand alone. a few days ahead
If visiting during Dev Deepawali (November), reserve hotels and boats far in advance, as the city fills up and prices surge. 2-3 months ahead
Get your prepaid tourist SIM at the airport on arrival; carry your passport and a passport photo. on arrival
Reserve ghat-facing rooms at riverside hotels like BrijRama Palace early, as they sell out in peak season. 1-2 months ahead
Varanasi asks a lot of you and gives back even more: dawn on the river, smoke and bells at dusk, and a tangle of lanes where the sacred and the everyday blur together. Come with patience and an open mind, and let the world's oldest living city work on you. Book a sunrise boat, find a guide for the galis, and plan your trip to one of the most extraordinary places on earth.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Varanasi?
Two full days is the sweet spot: one for a sunrise boat ride, the old-city lanes, and the evening Ganga Aarti, and a second for Sarnath and a slower wander. Add a third day if you want to dig into the music, silk weaving, or temples without rushing.
Where should I stay in Varanasi?
Stay near the ghats: Assi Ghat for a calmer, traveler-friendly scene with cafes, or the Dashashwamedh and Godowlia area to be in the heart of the action. If you prefer quiet, space, and modern hotels, base yourself in the Cantonment a short ride from the river.
Is Varanasi expensive?
No, Varanasi is very affordable. Street meals cost under 150 rupees, a shared boat ride is around 100-200 rupees per person, and comfortable mid-range hotels run well under most Western city prices, though riverside heritage palaces and peak festival dates cost considerably more.
What is the best time to see the Ganga Aarti?
The main Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat happens every evening around sunset and lasts about 45 minutes. Arrive 45 to 60 minutes early for a spot on the steps, or hire a boat to watch the flames and crowd from the water.
Is Varanasi worth visiting?
Yes, Varanasi is one of the most powerful and unforgettable places in India, and for many travelers the highlight of the country. It is intense, crowded, and not always comfortable, but the riverfront at dawn, the aarti at dusk, and the maze of ancient lanes are experiences you find nowhere else.
Top-Rated Places to Eat, See & Stay
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