Black and white image of a taxi on a street in Shillong, India, evoking urban life.
City Guide · Shillong

Shillong Travel Guide: Where to Eat, Stay & Explore the Scotland of the East

A pine-clad hill station of waterfalls, living root bridges, and the best live music in India, set high on the Meghalaya plateau.

Last updated June 30, 202615 min read
Quick answer

Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya in northeast India, is a cool pine-covered hill station best known for live music, cafe culture, and easy access to spectacular nature: the waterfalls of Cherrapunji, the crystal Umngot River at Dawki, and living root bridges. Base yourself near Police Bazar or Laitumkhrah for walkability and food, eat Khasi pork dishes and jadoh (rice cooked in meat broth), and plan day trips by private car. Three to four days lets you see the city plus the big day trips.

Shillong sits at around 1,500 meters in the Khasi Hills, the capital of Meghalaya and the unofficial music capital of India. The British called it the Scotland of the East for its rolling pine ridges, cool mist, and lakes, and that nickname still fits. Today it is a lively, youthful city where rock and gospel pour out of cafes, Khasi, English, and Hindi mix on the streets, and the surrounding hills hide some of the wettest, greenest country on Earth.

This is a matrilineal Khasi heartland with a culture distinct from the rest of India: clans pass through the mother, the food leans toward pork, rice, and foraged greens, and Sunday means church. The city itself is compact and walkable around its colonial core, but the real magic is what lies an hour or two out: thundering waterfalls at Cherrapunji, the glass-clear Umngot River at Dawki, and the famous living root bridges grown over generations from rubber-fig roots.

Come for the live music and cafe culture, stay for the day trips, and budget extra time for the weather, because clouds and rain are part of the experience here. Shillong rewards travelers who slow down.

Best time to visit

The best months are October to early May, when skies are clearer and the air is crisp and cool, with daytime temperatures often 15-22°C and chilly nights. October and November are ideal, just after the monsoon when waterfalls still roar but rain eases. The Shillong leg of festivals like Cherry Blossom (mid-November) and the year-end music events draw big crowds, so book ahead. Monsoon (June to September) is dramatic and intensely green but brings relentless rain, landslides, and disrupted day trips, especially around Cherrapunji, the wettest inhabited place on Earth.

Getting around

Most travelers fly into Guwahati (Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport, GAU) in neighboring Assam, then take a shared cab or private car for the roughly 100 km, 3 to 3.5 hour drive up to Shillong; pre-paid shared taxis are common and cheap. Shillong's own Umroi Airport (SHL) has limited flights. Within the city, distances are short but traffic in and around Police Bazar is heavy, so walk the central core and use local taxis (often shared) or app-based cabs for longer hops. For day trips to Cherrapunji, Dawki, and Mawlynnong, hire a private car with driver for the day, as public transport is sparse and the routes are scenic but winding.

Where to stay

Neighborhoods & hotels

Police Bazar (Central Shillong)The commercial heart of the city, packed with hotels, restaurants, shops, and taxi stands. Best for first-timers who want everything walkable, though it is busy and can be noisy.
LaitumkhrahA leafy, student-and-cafe district near Don Bosco, full of bakeries, coffee shops, and casual eateries. Suits travelers who want a lived-in local feel with great food close by.
Umiam Lake (Barapani)About 15-17 km north of the city on the Guwahati road, with resorts overlooking a large reservoir ringed by pines. Ideal for couples and anyone wanting calm, views, and water activities over city bustle.
Oakland / Upper Shillong areaQuieter, greener residential pockets with views and a few boutique stays. Good for those with a car who prefer peace over walking to nightlife.
Polo Towers Shillong
Polo Towers Shillongmidrange Google
4.1 · 5,332 reviews
A reliable, well-located full-service hotel near Polo Ground, walkable to Police Bazar with a spa, restaurants, and ample parking. A strong mid-range pick for comfort and consistency.
Hotel Centre Point
Hotel Centre Pointmidrange Google
4.3 · 699 reviews
A long-running central hotel right in Police Bazar, putting shops, eateries, and taxi stands at your doorstep. Practical and good value for first-time visitors who want to be in the middle of everything.
Ri Kynjai-Serenity by the Lake
Ri Kynjai-Serenity by the Lakeluxury Google
4.5 · 1,837 reviews
Shillong's signature splurge, a hillside resort of Khasi-inspired cottages overlooking Umiam Lake, about 20 km from the city. Worth it for the views, the spa, and slow lakeside mornings; book well ahead in peak season.
Vacation rentals around Laitumkhrah and Upper Shillong
Vacation rentals around Laitumkhrah and Upper Shillongfamily friendly Google
4.6 · 71 reviews
For families or longer stays, full apartments and cottages with kitchens and lake or hill views offer space and value over hotel rooms. Look in quieter neighborhoods with parking.

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Eat & drink

Best Coffee and Cafes

Shillong runs on coffee, conversation, and acoustic guitars. The cafe scene here punches well above the city's size.

Dylan's Cafe
Dylan's Cafe Google
4.0 · 3,846 reviews · Police Bazar
Opening hours
  • Monday: 9:30 AM - 11:30 PM
  • Tuesday: 9:30 AM - 11:30 PM
  • Wednesday: 9:30 AM - 11:30 PM
  • Thursday: 9:30 AM - 11:30 PM
  • Friday: 9:30 AM - 11:30 PM
  • Saturday: 9:30 AM - 11:30 PM
  • Sunday: 9:30 AM - 11:30 PM
A Bob Dylan-themed institution beloved by locals and travelers, with photos, lyrics, and a guitar-friendly vibe. Come for coffee, sandwiches, and a long sit; it captures Shillong's music-soaked spirit. Around 150-400 rupees for coffee and a bite.
Cafe Shillong
Cafe Shillong Google
4.1 · 2,726 reviews · Laitumkhrah
Opening hours
  • Monday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Tuesday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Wednesday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Thursday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Friday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Saturday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Sunday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
One of the city's best-loved cafes, doubling as a live music venue where local bands play. The food is solid (try the pork dishes and pastas) and the coffee is dependable. A good evening spot to catch Shillong's famous music culture.
Lamledet Cafe
Lamledet Cafe Google
4.1 · 2,726 reviews · Laitumkhrah
Opening hours
  • Monday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Tuesday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Wednesday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Thursday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Friday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Saturday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
  • Sunday: 12:00 - 10:00 PM
A cozy, well-rated spot for proper espresso drinks, cakes, and a quiet work-friendly atmosphere. Popular with the student crowd from nearby colleges.
ML05 Cafe
ML05 Cafe Google
4.0 · 2,921 reviews · Police Bazar
Opening hours
  • Monday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Thursday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Friday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Saturday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Sunday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
A modern cafe named after the Meghalaya vehicle code, serving good coffee, burgers, and comfort food in a relaxed setting. A reliable daytime hangout for a caffeine fix and people-watching.
Eat & drink

Where to Eat Breakfast and Brunch

ML 05 / local jadoh stalls
ML 05 / local jadoh stalls Google
4.3 · 16 reviews · Police Bazar
For an authentic Khasi morning, seek out a jadoh stall serving red rice cooked in pork or chicken broth with sides of tungrymbai (fermented soybean) and dohneiiong (pork in black sesame). Cheap, filling, and deeply local at 80-200 rupees. Stalls around Police Bazar are good entry points.
Dejavu Cafe
Dejavu Cafe Google
4.4 · 2,323 reviews · Laitumkhrah
Opening hours
  • Monday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
  • Tuesday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
  • Wednesday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
  • Thursday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
  • Friday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
  • Saturday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
  • Sunday: 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM
A pleasant all-day spot good for eggs, toast, pancakes, and coffee in a calm setting away from the bazar crush. Easygoing brunch fare with friendly service.
Eat & drink

Best Restaurants for Dinner

Khasi cuisine centers on pork, rice, and foraged greens, but Shillong also does excellent Naga, North Indian, and continental food.

Trattoria
Trattoria Google
4.2 · 961 reviews · Police Bazar
Closed Sundays
Opening hours
  • Monday: 11:00 AM - 9:00 PM
  • Tuesday: 11:00 AM - 9:00 PM
  • Wednesday: 11:00 AM - 9:00 PM
  • Thursday: 11:00 AM - 9:00 PM
  • Friday: 11:00 AM - 9:00 PM
  • Saturday: 11:00 AM - 9:00 PM
  • Sunday: Closed
A tiny, no-frills local favorite for traditional Khasi food, run by women and famous for jadoh, dohneiiong, and pork dishes served on a simple thali. Authentic, cheap, and often busy at lunch; expect 150-300 rupees per person. Go early as it can sell out.
City Hut Dhaba
City Hut Dhaba Google
4.4 · 11,154 reviews · Oakland / Police Bazar
Opening hours
  • Monday: 11:00 AM - 9:30 PM
  • Tuesday: 11:00 AM - 9:30 PM
  • Wednesday: 11:00 AM - 9:30 PM
  • Thursday: 11:00 AM - 9:30 PM
  • Friday: 11:00 AM - 9:30 PM
  • Saturday: 11:00 AM - 9:30 PM
  • Sunday: 11:00 AM - 9:30 PM
A long-standing crowd-pleaser with a huge menu spanning North Indian, Chinese, and continental, set across cozy themed huts. Reliable for groups and families who want variety; mains around 250-500 rupees. Reserve on weekends.
ML 05 Cafe & restaurant clusters in Laitumkhrah
ML 05 Cafe & restaurant clusters in Laitumkhrah Google
4.0 · 2,921 reviews · Laitumkhrah
Opening hours
  • Monday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Thursday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Friday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Saturday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
  • Sunday: 10:00 AM - 8:30 PM
The Laitumkhrah strip is the city's casual dining engine, with everything from momos and Naga thalis to pizza and burgers. Great for a relaxed dinner and bar-hopping between cafes.
Top experiences

Top Things to Do in Shillong

The city itself is best explored on foot and by short drives to lakes and viewpoints; a guided half-day tour ties the highlights together.

Ward's Lake
Ward's Lake Google
4.5 · 2,832 reviews · Central Shillong
A pretty horseshoe-shaped colonial-era lake in the heart of town, with a wooden footbridge, gardens, and pedal boats. A quick, calm walk and the city's most photographed spot; small entry fee, open roughly 8:30 am to dusk.
Best of Shillong Half-Day Sightseeing Tour
Best of Shillong Half-Day Sightseeing Tour
Shillong
A private, guided 4-hour car tour hitting the marquee city sights and a taste of local food, ideal for a first orientation. Comfortable and efficient if you are short on time.
from $72
Colonial Walk Shillong
Colonial Walk Shillong
Central Shillong
A 2-hour guided walking tour through the British-era heart of the city, with churches, old bungalows, and architecture that earned Shillong its Scotland of the East nickname. An affordable, story-rich way to understand the place.
from $12
Laitumkhrah Walk
Laitumkhrah Walk
Laitumkhrah
A 2-hour guided walk through old-town Shillong with local storytellers covering history, culture, and daily life. A fun, low-cost induction to the city's character and a chance to meet residents.
from $12
Shillong Food Crawl
Shillong Food Crawl
Shillong
A 2-hour guided tasting tour through small, beloved food joints, sampling Khasi specialties and street snacks you might otherwise miss. Great value and a delicious way to learn the local palate.
from $22
Shillong Nature Walk
Shillong Nature Walk
Shillong
A 3-hour guided trek along green city trails, with tall trees, landscapes, and quiet corners of Shillong's natural side. A good leg-stretcher for those who want fresh air over museums.
from $22
Top experiences

More City Sights Worth Your Time

Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures
Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures Google
4.4 · 9,543 reviews · Mawlai
Closed Sundays
Opening hours
  • Monday: 9:30 AM - 5:30 PM
  • Tuesday: 9:30 AM - 5:30 PM
  • Wednesday: 9:30 AM - 5:30 PM
  • Thursday: 9:30 AM - 5:30 PM
  • Friday: 9:30 AM - 5:30 PM
  • Saturday: 9:30 AM - 5:30 PM
  • Sunday: Closed
An excellent seven-story museum covering the tribes and cultures of northeast India, with a rooftop skywalk offering panoramic city views. Allow 1.5-2 hours; ticket roughly 200 rupees, closed Sundays.
Elephant Falls
Elephant Falls Google
4.4 · 23,284 reviews · Upper Shillong
A three-tiered waterfall just outside the city, easily reached by car with stepped walkways to viewing points. Best after rain when the flow is strong; small entry fee and often combined with Shillong Peak.
Shillong Peak
Shillong Peak Google
4.4 · 1,284 reviews · Upper Shillong
Closed Wednesdays & Sundays
Opening hours
  • Monday: 8:50 AM - 3:50 PM
  • Tuesday: 8:50 AM - 3:50 PM
  • Wednesday: Closed
  • Thursday: 8:50 AM - 3:50 PM
  • Friday: 8:50 AM - 3:50 PM
  • Saturday: 8:50 AM - 3:50 PM
  • Sunday: Closed
The highest point in the area at about 1,965 meters, offering sweeping views over the city and hills on clear days. Located in an air force area, so carry ID; visibility depends entirely on the weather.
Police Bazar and Bara Bazar (Iewduh)
Police Bazar and Bara Bazar (Iewduh) Google
Central Shillong
Police Bazar is the bustling commercial center for shopping and street food, while Iewduh (Bara Bazar) is one of the oldest and largest traditional markets in the northeast, a sensory deep-dive into Khasi daily life. Go in the morning for the full buzz.
Beyond the city

Day Trips Worth Taking

The greatest hits of Meghalaya sit one to three hours from Shillong. Hire a private car with driver and start early.

Day Trip to Dawki and the Umngot River
Day Trip to Dawki and the Umngot River
Dawki / West Jaintia Hills
Dawki's Umngot River is famous for water so clear that boats appear to float on air, set near the Bangladesh border. This roughly 10-hour private tour also takes in waterfalls and crystal pools; book a boat ride early in the day before crowds and wind ruffle the surface.
★ 3.7 · 3 reviews · from $134
Day Trip to Mawlynnong and the Living Root Bridges
Day Trip to Mawlynnong and the Living Root Bridges
Mawlynnong / East Khasi Hills
Mawlynnong is billed as Asia's cleanest village, and nearby you can walk to the living root bridges grown over decades from rubber-fig roots. This 8-hour private tour pairs the village, a sky-view bamboo platform, and the Riwai root bridge; expect plenty of steps.
from $130
Cherrapunji (Sohra)
Cherrapunji (Sohra)
Cherrapunji / Sohra
Perched on the plateau edge at about 1,484 meters, Sohra is one of the wettest places on Earth, with dramatic gorges, Nohkalikai Falls, Mawsmai caves, and the double-decker root bridge trek. This car tour reaches the most cinematic landscapes in the region; allow a full day and pack a rain layer.
★ 5.0 · 1 reviews · from $120
Exotic Meghalaya Multi-Day Tour
Exotic Meghalaya Multi-Day Tour
Meghalaya
If you want it all handled, this top-rated multi-day package strings together Meghalaya's best spots with logistics, stays, and guiding sorted, leaving you free to sightsee. A premium option for travelers who prefer everything organized.
★ 5.0 · 27 reviews · from $700
Umiam Lake (Barapani)
Umiam Lake (Barapani) Google
4.5 · 6,430 reviews · Umiam / Barapani
Opening hours
  • Monday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
  • Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
  • Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
  • Thursday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
  • Friday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
  • Saturday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
  • Sunday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
A vast reservoir ringed by pines about 15-17 km north of the city, popular for kayaking, boating, and lakeside resort lunches. An easy half-day escape and a scenic stop on the drive to or from Guwahati.
After dark

Live Music and Nightlife

Shillong calls itself the rock capital of India for good reason; evenings revolve around live bands and cafes rather than big clubs.

Cafe Shillong Live
Laitumkhrah
The city's go-to for live local bands, with regular gigs spanning rock, blues, and acoustic sets. Arrive early on weekends for a table and pair the music with pork dishes and a drink.
Tango Restaurant & Bar
Tango Restaurant & Bar Google
4.0 · 683 reviews · Police Bazar
Closed Sundays
Opening hours
  • Monday: 1:00 - 10:30 PM
  • Tuesday: 1:00 - 10:30 PM
  • Wednesday: 1:00 - 10:30 PM
  • Thursday: 1:00 - 10:30 PM
  • Friday: 1:00 - 10:30 PM
  • Saturday: 12:00 - 1:00 AM, 12:30 PM - 12:00 AM
  • Sunday: Closed
A popular central spot for drinks, a bite, and an easygoing evening atmosphere near Police Bazar. Convenient for those staying in the city center.
Cloud 9 / hotel lounges
Cloud 9 / hotel lounges Google
3.7 · 36 reviews · Central Shillong
Opening hours
  • Monday: 1:00 PM - 12:00 AM
  • Tuesday: 1:00 PM - 12:00 AM
  • Wednesday: 1:00 PM - 12:00 AM
  • Thursday: 1:00 PM - 12:00 AM
  • Friday: 1:00 PM - 12:00 AM
  • Saturday: 1:00 PM - 12:00 AM
  • Sunday: 1:00 PM - 12:00 AM
For a more polished night out, hotel bars and lounges around Police Bazar offer cocktails and city views in a warm, indoor setting, handy when the weather is wet. Check current timings as last call comes relatively early.
Top experiences

Markets and Shopping

Iewduh (Bara Bazar)
Iewduh (Bara Bazar) Google
Central Shillong
One of the oldest and largest indigenous markets in northeast India, sprawling and chaotic, selling everything from fresh produce and fish to bamboo crafts and textiles. Go in the morning, watch your belongings, and embrace the controlled chaos.
Police Bazar
Police Bazar Google
Central Shillong
The main shopping and street-food zone, good for Khasi shawls, souvenirs, woolens, and local snacks. Busy day and night; bargain gently at the smaller stalls.
Khadi and local craft outlets
Khadi and local craft outlets Google
3.8 · 28 reviews · Central Shillong
Closed Sundays
Opening hours
  • Monday: 9:30 AM - 7:00 PM
  • Tuesday: 9:30 AM - 7:00 PM
  • Wednesday: 9:30 AM - 7:00 PM
  • Thursday: 9:30 AM - 7:00 PM
  • Friday: 9:30 AM - 7:00 PM
  • Saturday: 9:30 AM - 7:00 PM
  • Sunday: Closed
For handwoven textiles, cane and bamboo goods, and regional crafts, the government and cooperative emporiums offer fixed prices and authentic make. A reliable way to buy Meghalaya-made souvenirs without haggling.
Good to know

Before you visit

Getting aroundWalk the central core and use shared local taxis (you may ride with strangers along set routes) or app cabs for longer trips. For day trips, hire a private car with driver for the day, as buses are infrequent and roads are winding.
MoneyCarry cash for markets, street food, taxis, and entry fees, as many small vendors do not take cards. ATMs are common in Police Bazar but can run dry on weekends; UPI works in many cafes and shops.
Weather and packingShillong is cool year-round; pack layers, a warm jacket for evenings, and a rain shell even in shoulder season. Day trips to Cherrapunji and the root bridges involve steps and slippery paths, so bring proper grip shoes.
EtiquetteThis is a matrilineal Khasi society with strong Christian traditions; Sundays are quiet as many businesses close for church. Ask before photographing people, especially in markets and villages, and respect local customs around the living root bridges and sacred groves.
Permits and IDNo special permit is needed for most of Meghalaya, but carry photo ID for sites like Shillong Peak (in an air force zone) and for border-area visits near Dawki. Foreign nationals should keep passports handy.
Connectivity and SIMMobile coverage is good in the city but patchy in the hills and on remote treks. Buy an Indian SIM (Jio or Airtel) in a larger city if you can, and download offline maps before day trips.
SafetyShillong is generally safe and friendly, with low violent crime; standard precautions against pickpocketing apply in crowded markets. Roads can be foggy and slow, so avoid long mountain drives after dark.
Before you go

Plan-ahead checklist

Hire a private car with driver in advance for day trips to Cherrapunji, Dawki, and Mawlynnong, as good drivers book out in peak season. book 1-2 weeks ahead
Reserve hotels early for October to December and around festival dates, when Shillong fills up fast. book 1-2 months ahead for peak season
Book the Dawki day trip and Umngot River boat ride to arrive early morning for the clearest water.
Plan the Cherrapunji (Sohra) day trip with a rain layer and grip shoes, and start at dawn to beat clouds and crowds.
Carry enough cash before weekends, as ATMs in Police Bazar can run empty and small vendors are cash-only.
Buy an Indian SIM and download offline maps before heading into the hills, where signal drops.

Shillong is the kind of place that gets under your skin: misty mornings over a pine-ringed lake, a guitar in every cafe, and roads that drop you at some of the most jaw-dropping landscapes in India. Give it a few unhurried days, chase the waterfalls and clear rivers, and let the music carry your evenings. Start planning, and let the hills do the rest.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Shillong?
Three to four days is ideal: one for the city itself (cafes, Ward's Lake, museums, live music) and two to three for day trips to Cherrapunji, Dawki, and the living root bridges. Add more if you want to trek to the double-decker root bridge or relax at Umiam Lake.
Where should I stay in Shillong?
First-timers should base in or near Police Bazar for walkable food, shops, and taxis, or in leafy Laitumkhrah for the cafe scene. For quiet and views, stay by Umiam Lake, about 20 minutes north of the city.
Is Shillong expensive?
Shillong is affordable by international standards. Local meals run 150-400 rupees, mid-range hotels are reasonable, and the biggest costs are private cars for day trips, which are worth splitting with others.
How do you get to Shillong?
Most travelers fly into Guwahati airport (GAU) in Assam, then take a shared cab or private car for the 100 km, roughly 3 to 3.5 hour drive up into the hills. Shillong's own Umroi Airport has limited flights.
What food is Shillong known for?
Khasi cuisine centers on pork and rice: try jadoh (rice cooked in meat broth), dohneiiong (pork in black sesame), tungrymbai (fermented soybean), and smoked pork. The city also has a strong cafe culture and good momos and Naga dishes.
Is Shillong worth visiting?
Yes. Few places combine cool hill-station weather, India's best live-music culture, and world-class nature like the Umngot River at Dawki, Cherrapunji's waterfalls, and the living root bridges, all within easy reach of the city.
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