✦ Quick answerFes is Morocco's cultural capital, built around the walled medieval medina of Fes el Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage maze best explored on foot or with a local guide. Base yourself in a traditional riad inside the medina for atmosphere, or in the modern Ville Nouvelle for comfort and easy transport. Don't miss the Chouara tannery, Bou Inania and Al Attarine madrasas, and the food: rich tagines, pastilla (a sweet-savory pigeon or chicken pie), and slow-cooked lamb.
Fes is Morocco's oldest imperial city and its cultural soul, founded in the late 8th century and home to what many call the world's largest car-free urban zone. The old medina, Fes el Bali, is a labyrinth of roughly 9,000 lanes where donkeys still haul cargo, artisans hammer brass by hand, and the call to prayer echoes off centuries-old walls. This is not a museum piece; it is a living, working city where the Middle Ages and modern life share the same alley.
Where Marrakech dazzles and hustles, Fes rewards patience. It is more conservative, more traditional, and less polished, which is exactly its appeal. Behind plain doors sit dazzling riads and madrasas covered in zellij tilework and carved cedar. Get lost on purpose: the medina is designed to disorient, and the best discoveries happen when you stop fighting it.
Fes is also a food and craft capital. The University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859, is often cited as the oldest continuously operating degree-granting university on earth. The famous Chouara tannery has been dyeing leather in stone vats for close to a thousand years. Come hungry, come curious, and give the city at least two full days.
Best time to visit
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are ideal, with daytime highs around 20-28C (68-82F) and manageable crowds. Summer is hot and dry, regularly topping 35C (95F) in July and August, which makes midday medina wandering punishing. Winters are cool and can be rainy, with nights near 5C (41F), so pack layers as riads are often unheated. Time your trip to the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, usually held in late May or June, for an internationally renowned program of concerts in historic venues. Note that Ramadan (a shifting date on the Islamic calendar) changes restaurant hours and the city's rhythm.
Getting around
Fes-Sais Airport (FEZ) sits about 15 km south of the city, with connections to European hubs and Casablanca; a taxi into town runs roughly 120-150 dirham (agree the fare or insist on the meter). The train station in the Ville Nouvelle links Fes to Casablanca, Rabat, and Marrakech via the national ONCF network. Inside the medina there are no cars: you walk, and you will get lost, which is part of it. For everything outside the walls, use petit taxis (small red metered cabs) for short hops, and consider hiring a licensed local guide for your first day in Fes el Bali to orient yourself before exploring solo.
✦ Where to stay
Neighborhoods & hotels
Fes el Bali (the old medina)The historic heart, packed with restored riads, madrasas, and souks. Best for first-timers who want full immersion and atmosphere, though you'll navigate on foot and haul luggage through narrow lanes (many riads send a porter).
Fes el JdidThe 'new' medieval quarter next to Fes el Bali, home to the royal palace gates and the old Jewish quarter (Mellah). Quieter and less touristed, a good middle ground with easier vehicle access at its edges.
Ville NouvelleThe French-built modern city with wide boulevards, cafes, the train station, and contemporary hotels. Best for travelers who want reliable comfort, parking, nightlife, and a break from the medina's intensity, at the cost of atmosphere.
Palais Faraj Suites & Spamidrange Google
4.3 · 911 reviews
A converted palace on the edge of the medina with commanding views over Fes el Bali and a rooftop restaurant. Rooms blend traditional Moroccan detail with modern comfort, and it's walkable to the old city while allowing vehicle drop-off nearby.
Riad Laaroussaboutique Google
4.8 · 410 reviews
A beautifully restored 17th-century riad deep in the medina, arranged around a citrus-scented courtyard with a small spa and a well-regarded set-menu dinner. An intimate, atmospheric choice for those who want the classic riad experience.
Hotel Sahrailuxury Google
4.4 · 1,918 reviews
A sleek design hotel above the medina in the Ville Nouvelle direction, with a large pool, spa, and panoramic city views. The splurge pick for travelers who want contemporary luxury and space rather than a historic riad.
Fes vacation rentals and riadsunique Google
4.9 · 11 reviews
For families or groups, renting a whole riad gives you a private courtyard, rooftop, and often a cook. Browse options across the medina and Ville Nouvelle.
Skip the research, get a day-by-day Fes plan
Tell us your dates and pace; we'll build the itinerary around these picks.
✦ Top experiences
Top Things to Do in Fes
The medina is the main event, but a handful of specific sights anchor a visit. Modest dress helps at religious sites, and non-Muslims cannot enter working mosques.
Chouara Tannery Google
4.2 · 1,161 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Tuesday: 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Wednesday: 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Thursday: 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Friday: 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Saturday: 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Sunday: 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
The city's iconic leather tannery, a honeycomb of stone dye pits worked by hand for centuries. View it from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops (you'll be handed a sprig of mint for the smell); expect a soft expectation to browse bags and babouches. Go mid-morning when the pits are full of color and light. Entry to viewing terraces is technically free but a small tip is customary.
Bou Inania Madrasa Google
4.4 · 635 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Tuesday: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Wednesday: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Thursday: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Friday: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Saturday: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Sunday: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM
A 14th-century Marinid theological college and one of the few religious buildings in Fes non-Muslims can enter. The carved cedar, stucco, and zellij tilework are breathtaking. Entry is around 20-70 dirham; it's near the Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate) end of the medina, so pair it with a walk down Talaa Kebira.
Al-Attarine Madrasa Google
4.5 · 2,521 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Thursday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Friday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Saturday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
- Sunday: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
A smaller but arguably even more exquisite 14th-century madrasa near the Qarawiyyin mosque, named for the nearby spice and perfume market. The intricate interior courtyard rewards a slow look; climb to the upper level if open. Entry is modest, roughly 20-50 dirham.
University of al-Qarawiyyin and Library Google
4.6 · 1,917 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 8:15 AM - 9:55 PM
- Tuesday: 8:15 AM - 9:55 PM
- Wednesday: 8:15 AM - 9:55 PM
- Thursday: 8:15 AM - 9:55 PM
- Friday: 8:15 AM - 9:55 PM
- Saturday: 8:15 AM - 9:55 PM
- Sunday: 8:15 AM - 9:55 PM
Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri and often called the world's oldest continuously operating university. The mosque itself is closed to non-Muslims, but you can peer through doorways at the vast prayer hall, and the restored library nearby occasionally admits visitors. It sits at the spiritual center of the medina.
Marinid Tombs viewpoint
North of the medina
Ruined tombs on a hillside north of the medina offering the single best panorama of Fes, especially at sunset when the whole old city glows. It's a short taxi ride or a stiff uphill walk; bring water. Free to visit.
Bab Bou Jeloud (the Blue Gate) Google
4.4 · 13,162 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 12:30 - 10:30 PM
- Tuesday: 12:30 - 10:30 PM
- Wednesday: 12:30 - 10:30 PM
- Thursday: 12:30 - 10:30 PM
- Friday: 12:30 - 10:30 PM
- Saturday: 12:30 - 10:30 PM
- Sunday: 12:30 - 10:30 PM
The grand tiled gateway into Fes el Bali, blue on the outside and green (the color of Islam) on the inside. It's the classic entry point and a natural orientation landmark, ringed by cafes where you can regroup before diving in.
✦ Eat & drink
Where to Eat in Fes
Fes cooking is refined and slow: tagines, pastilla, harira soup, and roasted meats. Many riads serve superb set dinners, and reserving ahead is smart for the higher-end places.
The Ruined Garden Google
4.2 · 2,647 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 1:00 - 9:30 PM
- Tuesday: 1:00 - 9:30 PM
- Wednesday: 1:00 - 9:30 PM
- Thursday: 1:00 - 9:30 PM
- Friday: 1:00 - 9:30 PM
- Saturday: 1:00 - 9:30 PM
- Sunday: 1:00 - 9:30 PM
A lovely open-air restaurant set in a restored ruin within Riad Idrissi, serving seasonal Moroccan plates and mezze under fig trees. Order the slow-cooked mechoui lamb (best pre-ordered) or the tasting selection of small dishes. Mains around 120-180 dirham; a serene escape from the medina bustle.
Cafe Clock Google
4.4 · 4,133 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Tuesday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Wednesday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Thursday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Friday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Saturday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Sunday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
A cultural hub as much as an eatery, famous for its camel burger and lively rooftop. Beyond the novelty, it hosts calligraphy classes, live music, and storytelling nights, making it a good spot for solo travelers. Casual and reasonably priced, with mains around 80-120 dirham.
Restaurant Dar Roumana Google
4.5 · 236 reviews · Fes el Bali
A refined riad restaurant blending Moroccan flavors with French finesse, set in an elegant courtyard. The seasonal menu and attentive service make it a reliable special-occasion dinner. Reserve ahead; mains and set menus in the mid-to-upper range.
Chez Rachid (street food and grills) Google
4.5 · 1,212 reviews · Fes el Bali
Closed Fridays Opening hours
- Monday: 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Thursday: 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Friday: Closed
- Saturday: 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
- Sunday: 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM
For an unfussy, authentic meal, seek out the small grills and hole-in-the-wall spots around Bab Bou Jeloud and the food lanes, where you can eat brochettes, kefta, and fresh bread for very little. Follow the crowds of locals and the smoke. Budget-friendly, often under 60 dirham.
✦ Eat & drink
Breakfast & Brunch
Most riads include a generous breakfast (msemen pancakes, eggs, olives, fresh juice, mint tea), but a few spots are worth leaving home for.
Cafe Clock rooftop breakfast Google
4.4 · 4,133 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Tuesday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Wednesday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Thursday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Friday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Saturday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Sunday: 9:00 AM - 11:00 PM
Beyond dinner, Cafe Clock does a solid breakfast with yogurt, granola, eggs, and good coffee on its terraces. A reliable, English-friendly start to a medina day. Expect around 50-90 dirham.
Cremerie La Place Google
3.3 · 8 reviews · Fes el Bali
Closed Fridays Opening hours
- Monday: 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM
- Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM
- Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM
- Thursday: 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM
- Friday: Closed
- Saturday: 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM
- Sunday: 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM
A no-frills local cafe near the Blue Gate where you can grab msemen, harcha, eggs, and coffee among Fassis starting their day. Cheap, quick, and authentic. Under 40 dirham.
Riad Laaroussa courtyard breakfast Google
4.8 · 155 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 1:00 - 10:00 PM
- Tuesday: 1:00 - 10:30 PM
- Wednesday: 1:00 - 10:00 PM
- Thursday: 1:00 - 10:00 PM
- Friday: 1:00 - 10:00 PM
- Saturday: 1:00 - 10:00 PM
- Sunday: 1:00 - 10:00 PM
If you're staying here (or many riads like it), the courtyard breakfast is a highlight: fresh-squeezed orange juice, warm breads, honey, amlou, and pancakes served under the trees. A calm way to plan the day before the lanes fill up.
✦ Eat & drink
Best Coffee & Mint Tea
Cafe culture is strong in Fes, especially in the Ville Nouvelle. Mint tea (the-a-la-menthe) is the true local ritual, but good espresso is easy to find.
Cafe Kif Kif Google
4.9 · 172 reviews · Fes el Bali
Closed Mondays Opening hours
- Monday: Closed
- Tuesday: 6:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Wednesday: 6:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Thursday: 6:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Friday: 6:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Saturday: 6:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Sunday: 6:00 PM - 12:00 AM
A small, friendly medina cafe with good coffee, smoothies, and a relaxed vibe popular with travelers and locals alike. A handy caffeine stop while exploring Fes el Bali. Espresso and juices for a few dirham.
Cafe Restaurant Bou Jeloud Google
4.5 · 534 reviews · Fes el Bali
Opening hours
- Monday: 5:00 - 11:00 PM
- Tuesday: 5:00 - 11:00 PM
- Wednesday: 5:00 - 11:00 PM
- Thursday: 5:00 - 11:00 PM
- Friday: 5:00 - 11:00 PM
- Saturday: 12:00 - 11:00 PM
- Sunday: 12:00 - 11:00 PM
Grab a table facing the Blue Gate, order a mint tea, and watch the endless flow of people and mules into the medina. It's touristy but the people-watching is unbeatable. Tea around 15-20 dirham.
Ville Nouvelle cafes along Boulevard Hassan II
Ville Nouvelle
The modern city's tree-lined boulevards are dotted with proper Moroccan cafes where locals linger over espresso and nous-nous (half coffee, half milk). Great for a slower, less touristy coffee break. Under 20 dirham.
✦ Top experiences
Markets & Shopping
Fes is a craft powerhouse: leather, brass, ceramics, and textiles are made in the medina's workshops. Bargaining is expected; start well below the first price and stay good-humored.
The Souks of Fes el Bali
Fes el Bali
The medina is organized loosely by trade, from the coppersmiths of Place Seffarine to the spice sellers of the Attarine quarter. Wander without a shopping agenda first, then return to buy. Fixed-price cooperatives exist if you dislike haggling.
Fes Pottery & Zellij Cooperatives (Ain Nokbi)
Ain Nokbi
On the medina's outskirts, workshops demonstrate the making of the city's famous blue-and-white ceramics and hand-cut zellij mosaic. You can watch artisans chip tiles by hand and buy directly. A short taxi ride from the old city.
Chouara Tannery leather shops
Fes el Bali
The shops overlooking the tannery sell jackets, bags, poufs, and babouches straight from the source. Quality and price vary widely, so inspect stitching and bargain hard. The rooftop view alone is worth the visit.
Henna Souk (Place el-Seffarine area)
Fes el Bali
A small, atmospheric square shaded by a large tree where you'll find natural cosmetics, henna, ceramics, and traditional remedies. Quieter than the main drags and good for gifts. Near the Qarawiyyin.
✦ Top experiences
Experiences Worth Booking
A guide or a class turns Fes from confusing to unforgettable. These are worth planning ahead.
Guided medina walking tour
Fes el Bali
A licensed local guide (arranged through your riad or an established agency) is the single best investment for your first day, decoding the layout, history, and craft workshops while keeping the hard-sell shops at bay. Half-day tours typically run 300-600 dirham for the group. Agree on the route and any shopping stops beforehand.
Moroccan cooking class
Fes el Bali
Several riads and schools (including Cafe Clock and various riad kitchens) run hands-on classes that start with a market shop and end with the tagine or pastilla you cooked. A fun half-day and a skill you take home. Usually 300-500 dirham including the meal.
Hammam and spa ritual
Fes el Bali
Experience the traditional steam-and-scrub hammam, either at a simple neighborhood bathhouse for a handful of dirham or at a riad spa like Riad Laaroussa for a plush version. It's the classic Moroccan reset. Book riad spa slots ahead.
✦ Beyond the city
Day Trips from Fes
Fes makes a strong base for exploring the surrounding region, from Roman ruins to a Swiss-style mountain town.
Volubilis and Moulay Idriss
Meknes region
About an hour west, Volubilis is Morocco's finest Roman archaeological site, with intact mosaics and columns set in rolling farmland. Combine it with the whitewashed pilgrimage town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun on a hilltop nearby. A half-day trip by hired driver or organized tour; entry to Volubilis is around 70 dirham.
Meknes
Meknes
The often-overlooked imperial city, about an hour away and easily reached by train, with the monumental Bab Mansour gate, huge granaries, and a more relaxed medina than Fes. Easy to combine with Volubilis in one day. Trains run frequently and cost little.
Ifrane and the Middle Atlas
Middle Atlas
A surreal alpine-style town of steep roofs and gardens about 90 minutes south, sometimes called 'the Switzerland of Morocco.' Pair it with the cedar forests near Azrou, home to troops of Barbary macaques. Best by hired car or tour.
Chefchaouen (the Blue City)
Rif Mountains
The famous blue-washed mountain town is roughly 3.5-4 hours north, a long day but doable for photographers who can't miss it. Many travelers prefer an overnight. Book a private driver or a small-group tour.
✦ Good to know
Before you visit
Getting aroundFes el Bali is entirely pedestrian; wear sturdy shoes and expect to get lost. Use petit taxis (red, metered) for trips outside the walls and to the airport, and hire a guide for your first medina foray.
LanguageArabic and the Amazigh (Berber) languages are spoken, with French widely used in business and tourism. English is common in riads and tourist areas but less so in the deep medina; a few French or Arabic phrases go a long way.
MoneyThe dirham (MAD) is a closed currency, so withdraw from ATMs on arrival. Cash is essential in the medina and for tips and taxis; many small shops and stalls don't take cards. Carry small notes for bargaining and tea.
Etiquette & dressFes is conservative; both men and women should keep shoulders and knees covered, especially near mosques and in residential lanes. Ask before photographing people, and remember non-Muslims cannot enter working mosques.
Safety & guidesFes is generally safe, but the medina is disorienting and unofficial 'guides' may lead you to shops for commission. Politely decline and use a licensed guide or your riad's recommendation. Watch for mules and carts in narrow lanes: when you hear 'balak!', step aside.
TippingTipping is expected and appreciated: a few dirham for cafe service, around 10 percent in restaurants, and small tips for porters, tannery terraces, and helpful staff. Keep coins handy.
Power & SIMMorocco uses European-style Type C/E plugs at 220V. A local SIM or eSIM from Maroc Telecom, Orange, or Inwi is cheap and gives reliable data for navigating the medina with maps.
✦ Before you go
Plan-ahead checklist
Book a riad inside Fes el Bali well ahead for high season, and ask them to arrange an airport transfer and a porter for luggage through the lanes. book 1-2 months ahead in spring/autumn
Reserve dinner at Nur, which is tiny and books out. book 1-2 weeks ahead
Arrange a licensed local guide for your first day to orient yourself in the medina. arrange a few days ahead
Check the dates of the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music if you want to attend, and buy concert tickets in advance. book 1-2 months ahead
Confirm whether your trip overlaps Ramadan, as restaurant hours and daytime dining change significantly.
Withdraw dirham on arrival, since the currency can't be obtained easily outside Morocco and cash rules the medina.
Fes rewards the curious traveler who slows down, wanders without a map, and lets the medina reveal itself one keyhole arch at a time. Between the tannery's colors, a rooftop mint tea at sunset, and a tagine that took all afternoon to cook, this is the Morocco that stays with you. Start planning, book a riad, and get pleasantly lost.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Fes?
Two to three days is ideal: one full day with a guide in the medina, a second to explore souks, madrasas, and the tannery at your own pace, and an optional third for a day trip to Volubilis and Meknes.
Where should I stay in Fes?
For atmosphere, stay in a traditional riad inside the old medina (Fes el Bali). If you prefer modern comfort, easy parking, and transport, choose a hotel in the Ville Nouvelle. First-timers usually love the immersion of a medina riad.
Is Fes worth visiting?
Yes. Fes has the best-preserved medieval medina in the Arab world, extraordinary craft traditions, refined cuisine, and a more authentic, less commercial feel than Marrakech. It's a highlight of any Morocco trip.
Is Fes expensive?
No, Fes is very affordable by Western standards. Street meals cost a few dollars, mid-range riads are reasonable, and even fine dining is inexpensive compared with Europe. Budget more for guides, hammams, and shopping.
Do I need a guide in Fes?
For your first foray into the medina, a licensed local guide is highly recommended because the roughly 9,000 lanes are genuinely disorienting. After a day of orientation, many travelers happily explore on their own with a phone map.
How do you get from Fes to Chefchaouen or Marrakech?
Chefchaouen is about 3.5-4 hours north by car or bus with no train link, so many book a private driver or overnight. Marrakech is best reached by the ONCF train, roughly 7 hours, or a short domestic flight.
Top-Rated Places to Eat, See & Stay
