Aix-en-Provence is a walkable Provencal university town built around the plane-tree boulevard of Cours Mirabeau and the lanes of the old town (Vieil Aix). Base yourself in or just beside the old town for markets, cafes, and Cezanne sights. It is known for rose from the Cotes de Provence, calisson almond candies, daube (beef stew), and long lunches, and it makes an ideal base for day trips to the Luberon villages, the lavender fields, and the calanques at Cassis.
Aix-en-Provence is the poised, golden-stone heart of Provence, a university town that has kept the grace of its 17th- and 18th-century heyday. Founded by the Romans as Aquae Sextiae in 123 BC for its thermal springs, it later became the seat of the Counts of Provence. Today it is a place of shaded squares, more than a hundred fountains, and honey-colored mansions that glow in the late-afternoon sun.
This was Paul Cezanne's town, and the limestone ridge of Montagne Sainte-Victoire that he painted obsessively still looms east of the center. The old town, a maze of pedestrian lanes locals call Vieil Aix, is made for wandering between cafes, markets, and pastry shops. The whole thing is compact and walkable, more refined and relaxed than nearby Marseille.
Come for the markets and the light, the rose wine and the calisson almond sweets, and a lifestyle that treats a two-hour lunch as entirely reasonable. Aix is also a brilliant base: the Luberon villages, the lavender plateaus, the Cotes de Provence vineyards, and the turquoise calanques near Cassis are all within an easy drive.
May, June, and September are the sweet spot: warm, sunny days, open-air dining, and fewer crowds than midsummer. July and August are hot (often low 30s Celsius) and busy, but they are also lavender season, roughly late June to mid-July on the nearby plateaus, and the city hosts the prestigious Festival d'Aix-en-Provence opera festival in July. April and October are pleasant and quieter, while winter is mild but sleepy, with some restaurants closed. The mistral wind can blow cold and hard for a few days in any season.
The nearest airport is Marseille Provence (MRS), about 25 minutes by car; a regular shuttle bus runs to the Aix bus station in roughly 30-40 minutes. The high-speed TGV stops at Aix-en-Provence TGV station, about 15 minutes from the center by shuttle bus, with fast connections to Paris (around 3 hours) and Marseille (about 12 minutes). The old town is entirely walkable and largely pedestrian, so drive as little as possible and use the ring-road parking garages if you have a car. Ride-hail and taxis are available, but you will rarely need them within the center.
Neighborhoods & hotels
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Best Coffee in Aix
Aix's cafe culture runs from grand terraces on Cours Mirabeau to a small wave of specialty roasters in the old town.
Opening hours
- Monday: 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Thursday: 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Friday: 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Saturday: 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Sunday: Closed
Opening hours
- Monday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Tuesday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Wednesday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Thursday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Friday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Saturday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Sunday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Breakfast & Brunch
Start with a buttery croissant from a top boulangerie, or sit down for a full Provencal brunch.
Opening hours
- Monday: Closed
- Tuesday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Wednesday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Thursday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Friday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Saturday: 7:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Sunday: Closed
Opening hours
- Monday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Tuesday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Wednesday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Thursday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Friday: 7:00 AM - 7:30 PM
- Saturday: 7:00 AM - 7:30 PM
- Sunday: 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Opening hours
- Monday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Tuesday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Wednesday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Thursday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Friday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Saturday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
- Sunday: 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Where to Eat
Aix eats well across the board: Provencal classics, bistro cooking, and a few destination tables. Reserve dinner in high season.
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:30 AM - 9:30 PM
- Tuesday: 9:30 AM - 9:30 PM
- Wednesday: 9:30 AM - 9:30 PM
- Thursday: 9:30 AM - 9:30 PM
- Friday: 9:30 AM - 9:30 PM
- Saturday: 9:30 AM - 9:30 PM
- Sunday: 9:30 AM - 9:30 PM
Opening hours
- Monday: 7:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Tuesday: 7:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Wednesday: 7:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Thursday: 7:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Friday: 7:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Saturday: 7:00 PM - 12:00 AM
- Sunday: Closed
Opening hours
- Monday: 7:00 - 10:00 PM
- Tuesday: 7:00 - 10:00 PM
- Wednesday: 7:00 - 10:00 PM
- Thursday: 7:00 - 10:00 PM
- Friday: 7:00 - 10:00 PM
- Saturday: 7:00 - 10:00 PM
- Sunday: Closed
Opening hours
- Monday: 7:00 - 10:00 PM
- Tuesday: 12:30 - 2:00 PM, 7:30 - 10:00 PM
- Wednesday: 12:30 - 2:00 PM, 7:30 - 10:00 PM
- Thursday: 12:30 - 2:00 PM, 7:30 - 10:00 PM
- Friday: 12:30 - 2:00 PM, 7:30 - 10:00 PM
- Saturday: 12:30 - 2:00 PM, 7:30 - 10:00 PM
- Sunday: 7:00 - 10:00 PM
Opening hours
- Monday: Closed
- Tuesday: 12:00 - 1:30 PM, 7:30 - 9:30 PM
- Wednesday: 7:30 - 9:30 PM
- Thursday: 12:00 - 1:30 PM, 7:30 - 9:30 PM
- Friday: 12:00 - 1:30 PM, 7:30 - 9:30 PM
- Saturday: 12:00 - 1:00 PM, 7:30 - 9:30 PM
- Sunday: Closed
Markets & Shopping
Markets are the soul of daily life here; time your visit to catch one and buy calissons to take home.
Opening hours
- Monday: 8:00 AM - 1:30 PM
- Tuesday: 8:00 AM - 1:30 PM
- Wednesday: 8:00 AM - 1:30 PM
- Thursday: 8:00 AM - 1:30 PM
- Friday: 8:00 AM - 1:30 PM
- Saturday: 8:00 AM - 1:30 PM
- Sunday: 8:00 AM - 1:30 PM
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM
- Tuesday: 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM
- Wednesday: 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM
- Thursday: 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM
- Friday: 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM
- Saturday: 9:30 AM - 7:30 PM
- Sunday: 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Top Things to Do
Aix rewards slow wandering, but a few sights anchor a visit, from Cezanne's studio to a first-rate art museum.
Opening hours
- Monday: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Tuesday: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Wednesday: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Thursday: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Friday: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Saturday: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Sunday: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Opening hours
- Monday: Closed
- Tuesday: 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Wednesday: 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Thursday: 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Friday: 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Saturday: 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
- Sunday: 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Opening hours
- Monday: 8:00 AM - 6:30 PM
- Tuesday: 8:00 AM - 6:30 PM
- Wednesday: 8:00 AM - 6:30 PM
- Thursday: 8:00 AM - 6:30 PM
- Friday: 8:00 AM - 6:30 PM
- Saturday: 8:00 AM - 6:30 PM
- Sunday: 8:00 AM - 6:30 PM


Bars & Evening Drinks
Aix is more aperitif than late-night club: think rose on a terrace and wine bars in the old town.
Opening hours
- Monday: 7:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Tuesday: 7:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Wednesday: 7:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Thursday: 7:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Friday: 7:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Saturday: 7:00 AM - 11:00 PM
- Sunday: 7:00 AM - 11:00 PM
Day Trips Worth Taking
Aix's greatest luxury is its location. These trips are all doable in a day, several with a guide who does the driving.






Before you visit
Plan-ahead checklist
Aix-en-Provence is the kind of place that rearranges your sense of time: a morning at the market, a long lunch under the plane trees, an afternoon chasing Cezanne's light, and the whole of Provence a short drive away. Pack an appetite and a loose schedule, and let the fountains and rose do the rest. Your table on Cours Mirabeau is waiting.
Frequently asked questions
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Top-Rated Places to Eat, See & Stay
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